3DPrinting

Source https://x.com/UncleJessy4Real/status/1829869388872159286

Full video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FKd9X-wl8Rg

This is the temp tower of my wood print experiment Cand even se much difference. It goes from 260 to 190. Below 225 gets really flimsy and above 240 melts. But even 230, the "best" one is really bad, and I'm not talking about retraction. Even the layers that melt are inconsistent.

Also it's not humidity since the filament was in a filament dryer for.16hours.

edit: The nozzle is 0.8

can someone think of anything else?

I have an indoor/outdoor thermometer to keep track of how hot the back of my Expedition gets. I drive pretty regularly with two dogs in the back, and over the summer and winter the temps can get a little extreme.

I need to be able to take it out to keep an eye on it remotely (it has about 1/4 mile range) but also have it not rolling around while I drive.

There was a coin holder there that I popped out, and used as a template for an insert to keep this mounted semi-permanently.

Printed with kinda crappy Amazon Basics PETG. If it holds up well, I'll reprint it with better quality black PETG so it matches the car better.

I was experimenting with bottom patterns in Orca and octagon spiral looked cool. I tried it with RGB filament and it came out amazing!

There is a depth to it and it changes with the angle

I haven't seen this before online so figured I'd share!

I want to mount a printed part to a standard 2mm motor axis which doesn't have any dents or profile. Its just round. If I print at exactly 2mm, it fits for the first few times until it gets too lose and the spinning part sometimes falls off.

Is there software that will automatically cut large STLs based on the printer you have or is cutting something you just have to do manually?

TL;DR No.

What you should do:

• buy fresh IPA. It is approx. $5/L. As such a 2L washing bin is approx. $10 + 10L waste disposal. In the broader picture of total costs and production value, this is manageable (resin cost, machine depreciation, PPE/gloves, ...)!
• use two or three stages of washing
• fill the washing containers with as little as necessary to get it done
• periodically expose the liquid to sunlight and let the particles settle down. Separate the "clean" liquid from the sump (you might add special chemicals to speed up this process).
• if the first stage needs replacement: 1.) responsible disposal of the liquid in compliance with local regulation 2.) move the liquids around: (the third stage is the new fresh liquid, the second is the prior third stage and the second washing station is now the first "dirty" stage).
• check for alternative chemicals that can be used with your particular resin

If you use water-washable resin: IT IS A DANGEROUS LIQUID! Dispose of dirty water responsibly as chemical waste.

Long answer:

To answer that, let's first look at what isopropanol (IPA) is: Its formal name is propan-2-ol and its CAS number is 67-63-0.

As a starting point, check a database like GESTIS (German) and NOT wikipedia: https://gestis.dguv.de/data?name=011190

At the top of the page we see that it has GHS-02 and GHS-07 warning labels. Looking further, it is a colourless liquid with a flash point of 12°C and an ignition point of 425°C. The explosive range is 2-13.4% vol. The signal word is DANGER.

Scrolling down:

The substance forms explosive peroxides.

What does this mean?

There is no mechanism mentioned, but generally, if you expose these chemicals to sunlight they will react over time to form a peroxide, which is much more reactive and can explode at high concentrations (there are exceptions to this rule, but most of them go boom).

This means for distillation:

• avoid "old" IPA if possible
• check for peroxides (if necessary, treat the peroxides before distillation)
• don't distill dry (leave some liquid in the sump to avoid high concentrations of peroxides)

As I believe this shouldn't be done at home I won't tell you how it can be safely done (if this isn't enough to deter you: read scientific literature/books describing how it shall be done).

Instead, focus further on what advice is out there on the internet/YouTube:

• A water distiller is made for water and water isn't flammable and doesn't form explosive atmospheres. In other words they are unsafe for Isopropanol or Ethanol.
• Do you think a 2kg fire extinguisher is enough? Are you truly capable of thinking rationally when there is a fire or would you panic like most people?
• Don't even consider doing it indoors or in a garage.
• Don't work with large volumes. In a laboratory with proper fumehoods and equipment, there might be limits like 500mL batch sizes.
• If somebody isn't wearing eye protection or heating large amounts of liquid without stirring question his qualification to talk about this topic. Being an influencer or posting online, like this post, doesn't require any formal qualification as such even the big YouTubers/influencers post horrendous content that is dangerous or misleading.

Has anyone here changed the Biqu B1 SKR v1.4 mainboard to SKR MINI E3 V3?

So I set this text to change the bottom layer to concentric only for the text and I got this. I had this large flat area in my print and decided to spice it up a bit for fun without doing multicolor which would be 1, too annoying to do manually and 2, too visible for this part that needs to be all black. So here I have a nice DON’T PANIC on the back of it.

Edit: Deleting this post. It's starting to get controversial, but that's OK. Not what I planned on, but whatevers.

I'd like to get a Bambu Labs A1 with the AMS but I'll want a sturdy surface to put it on. I'm shopping around for tables with drawers and I'd like to know how big it needs to be. There are dimensions for the printer itself but it's hard to know how much more space I need to accommodate the AMS.

I am looking to get a new 3d printer. I've had an ender 3 V2 for a few years. While I've been able to get many excellent prints out of it, I'm looking for a printer for my new apartment that will require a little less tinkering and troubleshooting. I'm pretty experienced with the nuances of 3d printing, and don't mind taking things apart and fixing things(but not every time I wanna use the thing). Realistically I'll be printing mostly PLA and PETG, but it would be nice to have the option of trying out other higher strength filaments, and I'd like to have an enclosure to play with ABS eventually.

I prefer to spend around $500. I've been eying up the Bambu P1S with the AMS but I really don't think I can afford almost $1000 right now. If it's really worth it, I can pull it off. The Bambu a1 is also interesting, but id prefer to have a core-xy with an enclosure.

I've been looking at the flashforge 5m or 5m pro, as well as creality k1c. Those prices are way more attractive. Or perhaps qidi?

All the choices and different technologies on the market now are a little bit overwhelming, and I don't want to be disappointed in my purchase. I'll mostly be using it to print random things for around the house and for electronics projects.

Any thoughts or recommendations are welcome, thank you!

I don't print any abrasive materials at all. Pretty much only normal PLA and PETG.

I noticed, that my print quality gradually went down quite a bit, especially in the last few prints. I had a lot of stringing, weird blobs, and scarred surfaces.

Now, the print quality is as good as it should be!

They are dirt cheap. You can get a set of 10-15 generic ones, in different sizes, for only a few bucks. Don't forget that they are consumables.

I am using the Creality ender 3 v3 SE with eSuns PLA+ in black. The recommended printing temperature is 205-220 and I am printing at 210. The bed is set to 65°. When I print somewhat flat parts. The edges warp off the plate, while the printer is running and the plate is still hot. Until a few days ago it worked perfectly and I don't know what I am doing different.

It is always only the first few layers, and the print never moves, so that the printer would make spaghetti, its just the edges that lift of a few millimeters.

Sorry, this is not really 3d printing related. But as we have some cool folks here OS wise. I hopped you could help or point me the correct way.

As I have mentioned before my brother and I own a tiny narrow boat we are doing up.

The engine room is a nightmare. 4ft high with no top access. We are disabled (visual and flexibility basically old can't bend and classed as blind but some vision. ) So we have difficulty measuring exact space in a room we have to crawl through. Well it's very like Star Trek Jeffries tubes but greasy. ;)

We need to plan and mount electronics in there to support our use. (I sought advice on printing to help with this a while back and got fantastic help)

I am now starting to think having a 3d model of the engine room would make working out the layout much easier. So here is where advice is needed.

We are skint (poor for the US) so spending 1000s ain't an option. And likely not worth it anyway.

I have heard of android apps that use photographs. And that level of accuracy is likely fine for our planning needs.

But I'm a Linux 100% user. Since the late 90s So need some way to do this that can be done on Linux and fed into FreeCAD and or Blender.

Does anyone know much about tools in this space. And what the process for doing this with photographs is?

I was gifted an unused Ender 3 Pro two weeks ago and managed to model and print an adapter to connect Sony E-Mount cameras onto a 42mm dovetail used by microscopes.

Bed adhesion, leveling, stringing, clearance issues, blobs and permanently welded supports, I got to battle it all but thanks to the massive volume of community support I worked my way though.

Thinking about getting my first printer to print some organization stuff around the house, some nerf parts, as well as some small toys and fidget for friends/kids. The Bambu Lab A1 seems to be notable for being beginner friendly without a lot of fiddling.

Read recently about the lawsuit and I'm wondering if I should wait until that's resolved before pulling the trigger. I'm worried that some outcome there will eliminate important features or worst case make it obsolete entirely. Any thoughts?

There's a number of options and I was a bit overwhelmed, is there a comprehensive write up, copypasta, or something of the like?

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.nowsci.com/post/9782596

Hi all,

I've finally gotten around to releasing these formally after much testing of prints and usage.

The Twystlock system is a set of 100% 3D printable gaming accessories that require no printed supports or additional parts. This means no springs to buy and no metal elements to melt in, just access to a 3D printer and a bit of super glue. Originally designed for the Steam Deck, these accessories can be applied to the case of any mobile gaming device.

The Twystlock connector itself is designed as a quick-connect that secures parts together with a simple twist motion, can be fully recreated with affordable home-based 3D printers, and doesn't require complicated supports to print. The first use of this connector has been for the Steam Deck, specifically to supply an alternative accessory platform that is more accessible to the everyday 3D printing hobbyist, however it could be utilized as a connector in almost any environment.

Feel free to download what you like, and if you would like to request a new accessory design, or vote on the next accessory to be created, please visit our Lemmy community at https://lemmy.world/c/[email protected].

I'm looking at making a new printer. I'm thinking a core XY similar to a Voron, but I would be making it from scratch. I'm looking for something I can make reliable and accurate. I want to print PLA, ABS, TPU and more. I have a bunch of parts now that I would stick to.

235mm heated bed Revo hot end Nema 17 motors. BTT E3 mini, although I could use my SKR3 instead.

The easiest would be a bed slinger, but I am open to a Trident style. I like unique and challenging things.

What new features should I include? What should I avoid?

I am (slowly) working on mounting ACM panels to my Voron 2.4 to try to get my chamber temps up to reduce/eliminate warping on big ASA prints. I only needed 12 of these parts, so I chose to print them sequentially.

Want to know how slow my progress has been? Well, this photo proceeded this post and I made that post weeks ago... I'll crack open the cable chain and get this ball rolling again soon. Or maybe I'll ditch the chains and go to a USB toolhead. But that will require me to print some parts, so I guess I have to fix this. And if I'm doing that it's going to probably be 'good enough' for quite some time... 🙃

There's nothing major in the print queue, but I do want to make sure the printer is ready to go when something does turn up.

Hi all

Does anyone have any experience with this kit? I'm interested in the linear rail upgrade and CoreXY as well for higher printspeeds.

I sometimes attach a small PCB drill to my Ender5 to help with diy PCBs and may want to try basic CNC milling as well with it.

There are two kits for the Ender5, one for the Ender5 Pro and Ender5 Plus. The difference is in the size of the linear rails. Do the rails for the Ender5 Plus fit on the Ender5? On paper they are smaller than the size of the frame and in the future I might upgrade the Ender 5 to a bigger frame. I don´t mind if they stick out a little bit if it makes upgradability better.

The extruder suddenly stopped working after I cleared a jam that caused it to grind.

• I tried every combination of motor and cable to trace the problem. It seems the only fault is the extruder's motherboard connector.

• The motor is functional. I connected it to the XYZ motor cables and it spins on every one.

• Nothing happened when I tried plugging the other axis cables into the extruder port on the motherboard.

• Finally, I am comfortable using a multimeter and soldering iron, but don't have immediate access to them.

I really appreciate any advice on this because I miss printing!