3DPrinting

Here's a method I've developed to splice filaments almost to perfection without any tools. It's basically the Teflon tube method for cheapskates who don't want to buy Teflon tubing 🙂

First of all, prepare a 2" x 2" (50mm x 50mm) -ish piece of white paper and a straighten a piece of filament that will serve as a mandrel:

Roll up the paper into a tube around the piece of straightened filament as tight as you can. The hard bit is to start rolling: the paper needs to be really snug against the filament to start with.

Once it's started right, it's easy. Roll it up all the way nice and flat. The bit of filament inside should fit inside the tube with quite a lot of friction if you did it right:

You can also wet it a few times with your tongue and it will stay in one piece without holding it. Ex-smoker's habits die hard 🙂

Cut the ends of the filaments to splice together with a sharp bevel:

Carefully thread the ends into the paper tube so they meet halfway:

They should go in with some force but they should slide smoothly. If you feel any roughness, you've snagged the paper inside and it won't work, so you should start over.

Heat up the center of the tube at 250C to 260C while ramming the filaments into each other firmly, but not so firmly as to collapse the paper tube, until you feel them "go" and melt into one another:

I use a SMD rework station because you can apply heat as much as you want and the paper only browns a bit, even if you overdo it grossly. It takes about 30 seconds for the heat to diffuse through the paper and for the filaments to melt fully. It's doable with a lighter too while pushing the filaments together with one hand, but it's less convenient of course.

Then unwrap the paper: some paper should stay stuck to the splice:

Clean up the splice by running a sharp knife along the splice all around. It's pretty quick, the paper isn't terminally fused to the filament:

Voila: perfect splice!

And here, seen under a microscope:

Looks like Bambu is getting more enshittified. I am so glad I didn't let my recent frustration at my clumsiness with my Prusa steer me into Bambu-land.

Technically it’s for any printer capable of printing a firearm or the components of a firearm, which is…. every printer. What a bafflingly stupid proposal. If you’re in NY, please call your reps and tell them to oppose this bill.

Created a new replacement dust adapter for my circular saw that replaces the original one. The original didn’t fit my Nilfisk Multi II 30 shop vac. Now I don’t need to fiddle with the adapter I first made.

Sharing if someone has the same combination: https://makerworld.com/en/models/996710

Got some hexagonal magnetic fidget toys for Christmas, they were pretty limiting in what shapes they could be used to make, so I designed and printed a much more shapes.

Got way too deep into this, and keep running out of magnets. Used over 500 magnets printing and playing with these.

Long story short, I am not mechanically inclined. I want my shit to just work. Somehow I decided I would order the MK4S upgrade kit for the prusa MK4 that I have. It took me about 12 hours but I did the upgrade and turned it on only to find it wouldn't boot with a power panic error message.

I tracked it down to a cable that got disconnected during all the upgrading, and when I went to push it back onto the board it bent the pins. When I tried to straighten them out the pens broke off and now I have a $2,000 paperweight on my desk.

EDIT: Ok, i am now rested and calmed down, and no i will not be buying an X1C from ~~the CCP~~ Bambu. Support was indeed super cool, and i'd need to spend another 120 for a new xbuddy since mistakes like this are not under warranty. However, my dad is a lifelong hardware electronics pro, and he seemed to indicate this should be no sweat to fix, so we shall commit mad science before i just buy another one.

Just hoping someone here can give me info on the pin out of the power lead so I can buy a replacement. I contacted 3dSystems, and they sent me the EoL package along with the code to unlock the printer. The EoL package has not been helpful for the power supply issue, and weeks of combing the web and forums has come up with nothing. So I'm hoping someone here can help me out.

Thanks for any help you lovely folk can come up with!

Since everyone here seemed to like my Pegboard designs, I figured I'd share this as well. When making the Only Sensor (see the home automation community or my site), I used this Solder Fume Extractor to keep my lungs nice and clean.

Fully 3D printable, and a full bill or materials on the link. Enjoy!

Hrm, not sure why the image returned a logo, but here it is:

https://nowsci.com/diy-solder-extractor

Now that Benchy's are off the market, what are your go to test models? I've seen Cali Cat and the torture toaster as examples.

Are there any reviewers on YouTube/Rumble/etc. or independent blogs that don't post affiliate links, aren't sponsored by the printer company, or had one sent out by the company? Those to me all seem like a conflict of interest.

Yes people need to make money, I'm not blind to that, but they can advertise other things that aren't a direct conflict of interest.

I'm looking to get my first printer and would like to get info from an unbiased source. I just don't know enough to weed through the million 3D printer channels.

The Sovol SV06 Ace seems nice with little research as it is large enough to print the project I have in mind and uses open source firmware (Klipper) which is a must for me.

I run half a dozen Duet but one of them started to give me a lot of headaches and only this one (unique hardware + configuration so no other to compare to).

issue: tool head 3 heater is always enabled. The software detects a thermal runaway but the heater stays enabled. The only option to stop the machine from catching fire is to remove the main power.

Hardware:

• Duet 2 wifi
• Due5X

troubleshooting done (hardware):

• measuring the mosfets => good
• checking the driver for obvious issues with a multimeter => no issue found
• moving toolheads hotends around. Issue persists on #3 spot (4th toolhead) so it is unrelated to the tool head. disconnecting it entirely also causes the heater to stay on
• removing the SD-card => issue is gone.
• sometimes it works like it should. Most of the time it doesn't.
• on this particular unit there were some other minor anomalies regarding the WIFI earlier (wouldn't connect to the network) but those fixed themselves after a few rounds of resetting the wifi module, adding it to the wifi network again, waiting a few days for it fail once more.

**TL;DR Is my assumption correct that this indicated an issue with the Firmware from Duet which isn't just on this device but also on the newer Duet 3?

Did anybody has run into a similar issue and was able to resolve it?

In the wider picture: Is every duet product unsafe?** This is an older Duet 2 but it runs the same/similar firmware as the current generation Duet 3. So one of the big questions is if all of the Duet products are unsafe. Would be bad as this has been my controller of choice meaning a lot of work to replace all of them.

Btw. If you buy a duet: don't expect ANY support from the manufacturer.

Here is the main config file:

config-overwrite:

I accidentally got the PETG filament instead of the PLA which I normally work with. I have an Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro.

Here's what was weird:

• The test strip went across the bottom of the board instead of the side. It went back to the side when I put the PLA back in.

• The temperture melting point changed automatically from 200 F to 220 and then back again when I switched back to PLA.

Does the printer know what kind of filament I'm using and if so, how?

ETA: The filaments have all been the Elegoo brand filaments.

I really want to buy a printer (resin or filament), but I'm concerned about the health aspects concerning inhaling the dust.

Is it really safe to have a printer indoors? Should I rig up something on my balcony instead? What room do you have yours in?

How do you guys deal with the dust? Do enclosures work? Any complaints from family members?

I've been at it again.

I've been using the hell out of these drawer thingies, what with you fill with Gridfinity bins and store ~~pocketknives~~ various things in.

Well, I screwed myself over and it turns out I need a stack of drawers one cell narrower than stock. The original author posted sources in Onshape but I will be buggered if I'm signing up for Yet Another Account just for that.

So I reconstructed the entire thing -- my way -- in FreeCAD. Because obviously that's the less insane option. (I guess this also allowed me to excise the magnet ears from the drawers, which is a worthless increase in print time and small waste of material for me since I don't use magnets with my Gridfinity bins)

Anyway, here it is.

This is my dinky 2x2 test print. Which is very nearly but not quite completely useless. (For instance, it fits Nite-Ize cable ties very well, as you can see.) If it makes you feel any better, the generator absolutely will make you a 1x1, 1u tall drawer assembly if you ask it to which truly will be fully useless...

What could cause the strange part on the right? The whole surface should be the same, it's a 90° wall, so nothing that should look like this. Can't see anything strange in OrcaSlicer. BambuLab A1 Mini with Creality PLA+

Fourth try on a print. Tried to add some adhesive to the bed to get it to stick better. Watched the first two layers and went to bed. Woke up to a printer on strike.

After immersing myself in 3D printer content on YouTube and Lemmy, I'd talked myself all the way up to spending AU$2000 which is just absurd for a first timer, but then talked myself into the Sovol3D S06 ACE as a decent starting point, haha

Anyhow, I'll be running this in my garage (garage door open) and I think the first batch of filament in the pack is either PLA or PETG, which seems beginner friendly

I've been wondering about 3D printer profiles and calibration in slicer apps... is there a way to print as many benchies that will fit on the bed, but each which different profile parameters, so I can see which profiles do or don't work best? Or do current slicer apps always produce a plan that uses the same parameters for the entire job?

Note that I'm 100% on Linux (no Windows here), so I'm probably limited to https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer or https://github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer (or maybe https://github.com/GladiusSlicer/GladiusSlicer if I'm in the mood for contributing my own code)

I've consumed probably too much YouTube at this point, but any especially important hints and tips for a first timer would be appreciated!

P.S. oh, just noticed, https://lemmy.ml/post/23597074 thanks!

I could edit the firmware but I like this just in case there are thermocouple issues.

I can also point a heat gun at it for a minute.

Snowflake Tie fighter card kit looks good in this blue clear PETG.

https://www.printables.com/model/91927-snowflake-tie-fighter-kit-card-ornament

Glasses case in blue/clear PETG. Stl - https://www.printables.com/model/1105484-flexi-glasses-case

It did not like the cold garage. There are some barely noticeable layer separations in the upright sections.

Yikes. Gonna have to work with this material a bunch to learn how to use it.

Model - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1545913

VSO.

So we got one of these rather silly sponge holder ducks.

The only problem is that Mr. Quacks here doesn't quite weigh enough. With a sponge his beak -- especially one that's laden with water -- he's prone to falling over into the sink. The sponge is held quite a ways outboard, and altogether the entire duck only weighs 65.4 grams.

I tried one other gimcrack solution before this, which was to glue a suction cup to his butt. That didn't work very well.

Instead, I opted to fill him up with some ballast. These will do nicely.

Yes, all of these pictures were just taken on my grubby stovetop. No, I am not going to pull out all the stops to perform my usual level of photography on, let's not put too fine a point on it, a butt plug for a rubber duck. I used a very short (less than a meter) scrap of left over TPU I had lying around to make a... cork... so I could fill the duck with ballast and then keep it all inside.

I am also given to understand that I should have perhaps made such at thing corkscrew shaped, but I am very sorry to inform you that I didn't do this, either.

I didn't count how many BB's I used. Two fillings of that speed loader that came with my Crosman M4, is what it was. I'll let you do the math: Now he weighs a much more suitable 265.7 grams, a little over four times the original weight, and acts rather like a weeble-wobble. With this you can tip him over so far the sponge falls out before he topples over himself. And can also shake him like a maraca, if you're really bored.