IMALlama

joined 2 years ago
[–] IMALlama 3 points 5 hours ago

I think many assume there's more of a plan, or at least more structure, than there actually is. When you pick at it, or pull the single link keeping it all together, it tumbles down.

[–] IMALlama 2 points 18 hours ago* (last edited 18 hours ago)

We have 4x raised beds that are 4' x 8' and live on the south edge of zone 7.

We start our whole veg garden from seed. It's not that we grow very eclectic things, but the specific species we like are not available to buy at the garden stores around us.

We tend to have heirloom tomatoes in different sizes and colors, some type of pole bean (last years were purple), a few kinds of peppers including shishitos, mini cantaloupe, carrots, onions, etc. We try to do something the kids are less likely to know visually too, like artichokes. Last year we grew some luffas, although I didn't realize we were cutting it very close on our growing season.

Edits: I'll start some seeds pretty soon indoors. Others will go straight in the ground when it's warm enough.

[–] IMALlama 2 points 1 day ago

My printer and filament live in my basement. We have a dehumidifier down there set to 55%. Some filament spools take a year plus for me to go through and I've never dried any of them. I have not noticed a meaningful change in print quality, but I also rarely go from an old to a new spool of the same material back to back.

I printed mostly PETG and ASA with some PLA thrown in.

[–] IMALlama 3 points 1 day ago (1 children)

Agree, but also half the story.

The zenphone 10 is 146.5 x 68.1 x 9.4 mm.

I had a 3a until very recently. With its 5.7" screen it was 151.3 x 70.1 x 8.2 mm, so it does support the story.

The OG iPhone was 115 × 61 × 11.6 mm.

I'm still using an iPhone 8 for my work phone and it's 138.4 x 67.3 mm x 7.3 mm.

It's clear that the market is demanding larger phones, which means that today's "small" phones are often larger than the phones of yesteryear.

[–] IMALlama 5 points 1 day ago

In December I finally bought a phone to replace my 3a. I did it mostly for the battery life, although I did actually buy a replacement battery for the 3a and have all the necessary tools to install it. It wouldn't be my first time replacing a cellphone battery.

I was window shopping and the Oneplus 12 became fairly discounted at the end of last year.

Honestly, the overall experience really isn't that different than my old 3a. It's not like newer versions of Android are adding revolutionary features these days and if you're running a custom ROM, odds are you're on a newer version of Android anyway.

Nice things:

  • Two days worth of battery life with my usage patterns. Even with a fresh battery, my 3a wouldn't last this long
  • Something like 4x more RAM means that apps are usually in the state I left them in when I come back to them, whereas on the 3a they had usually been forced to free up resources and not all apps deal with that well
  • The telephoto lens is nice to have, but none of the built in cameras are a substitute for my dedicated camera for things that are moving and/or things are far away
  • The screen mounted fingerprint sensor is very convenient, but that's a placement thing. Some people liked the 3a location, but I didn't personally

Unless you are taxing your processor, an upgrade will be incremental. At least that was my experience.

I somewhat regret the larger phone in that it's a bit harder to handle one handed, but most on screen keyboards have a one handed mode to deal with this. I had a pop/ring type holder on my 3a, so gripping one handed isn't that big of a deal.

[–] IMALlama 2 points 1 day ago (1 children)

That's the root of my question.

The whole exposure isn't continuous. Since the camera is a scanner, the final exposure can be though of as a series of narrow slices that are each exposed individually. That's why OP can creat these cool effects.

In order to avoid strobing, each of these exposures would have to be sufficiently long to catch a large enough number of strobes that having one fewer than an adjacent exposure doesn't cause issues.

I was wondering if this is actually the case or if OP has encountered strobing.

[–] IMALlama 4 points 1 day ago

I think you've probably got the correct replies already (see an audiologist a few times), but I wanted to share two quick anecdote that might explain your Grandfather's reaction.

I recently bought a pair of swim goggles with blue tint to wear when I go swimming with my kids. I leave them on for about 45 minutes before taking them off. When I take them off it's almost overwhelming how vibrant some colors become. It's almost like someone took the saturation slider and dialed it to 300. The white walls around the pool, the orange rash guard my youngest was wearing, etc. They all become almost extreme.

I have a pair of TWS earbuds that you can 'calibrate' to your ears based on what seems to be a crude test (detect a beep at a frequency over a background noise). The profile it generates is very bright. It's very possible I've lost that much hearing, especially since we lose high frequency first, but it's a bit jarring. I find myself not wanting to accept that reality. I'm approaching 40 and haven't been around that many sustained loud things without hearing protection. I do kind of like the sparkle, but it seems a bit over the top so I tend to turn it off. Perhaps your Grandpa is experiencing something similar?

[–] IMALlama 3 points 1 day ago (1 children)

You're not going to find any of those in stores in the US either. Of all the brands i rattled off, the only one you can reliably find here is Birkenstock. However, you're not going to find their shoes or boots. I had to order those from the web.

Xero shoes are a US brand, but I've never seen them in a store here. Groundies are German. Barebaics and Belanka are both from Slovakia.

The internet is a beautiful thing. Yeah, shipping from all over can be a bit slow but with standard measurements it's not hard to order shoes that will fit correctly out of the gate.

[–] IMALlama 4 points 1 day ago (6 children)

Holy hell, it's been 5 months?

Great work as always.

Its amusing that fast sensors are almost necessary to fight led strobing over slower sensors. Is the scanner so slow that strobing also isn't an issue?

[–] IMALlama 1 points 1 day ago (4 children)

And there is now so little choice!

There has been a consolidation of the major brands, but there's a pretty solid niche market around foot shaped shoes.

Vibrams are the extreme. Birkenstock sneakers are pretty well shaped, but their soles are a bit rigid. I don't mean that in a comfort way, I mean that in a bendable way.

More recent, to me at least, entrants are groundies, xero shoes, Barebarics, belenka, and a ton more.

[–] IMALlama 2 points 1 day ago

No problem! Ideally, the root flair would be the highest point in the surrounding area. If it's a low point it will fill in eventually. Thankfully, you're starting in a raised bed so it shouldn't be too hard to remove a bit more dirt if you need to.

[–] IMALlama 9 points 2 days ago (6 children)

Cut to the shape of an actual foot and flexible/minimalistic sole. I live in the Midwest, so I'll compromise some ok sole thickness in the winter. Standing in snow with my kid at the bus stop in minimalistic soles and even thicker socks makes for quick feet.

Shape of your foot? I don't understand why you would want your toes/foot contorted. I do not understand shoes that have a point in the middle of them. Either you're smashing your toes together or your making something stick out in front of your foot that will mess up your gate.

Minimalistic sole? This will get you landing more softly on your heel and help you use the balls of your feet more. It's amazing to me how thick/soft the soles of some shoes are. I suspect they're necessary to compensate for the way a lot of us walk.

My feet feel fantastic and my motion feels very natural.

 

I recently installed LDO's version of the Clicky-Clack Fridge Door on my Voron 2.4 350.

My 2.4 is stock in terms of heating other than having the filter, ACM panels, and 2x bed fans.

Takeaways?

  • If you want to make graphs, make sure you have comparable conditions. I was printing during both graphs and the prints had different aspect ratios (before was taller than wide, after was wider than tall). This probably explains why before appears to have heated faster
  • The better sealing door, with thicker acrylic did help chamber temps, but only by 3 degrees C
  • It takes a very long time to heat soak a 350mm^3 chamber, even with 4x bed fans
  • I wish I had a graph before I swapped the ACM panels on, but I don't and the panels are gone :(

I will be lining my panels with radiant insulation in the next week or three and will report back what, if any, changes that makes.

 

Or not, but there was an attempt!

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submitted 3 weeks ago by IMALlama to c/photography
 

Just a cellphone photo that's not particularly well framed, but I liked the contrast between dark trees and the sky. Bonus points for some snow.

 

Bonus points if you post some here too. I'll work on doing better on that myself.

 

Is there such a thing? Some of our plants inevitably grow towards the window quite a bit when I forgot to water them. A very slowly rotating plant stand seems like an obvious solution, but I haven't found any good offerings.

 

I am in the process of buttoning up a Nitehawk conversion on my Voron. I also replaced my extruder thermistor with an OE replacement purchased from a reputable vendor.

Post setup, my heated bed is reading spot on (it's 18.3 C in my basement aka 65 F). I verified that my extruder is also at ambient temperature by wedging a Thermapen under its silicone sock and letting it acclimate for 10 minutes. The I'm not sure why the extruder would be reading high.

I bought a spare thermistor and wired it in. The result was identical.

Thoughts? Ideas? I'm pretty sure I have the Nitehawk and thermistor set up correctly.

[extruder] step_pin: nhk:gpio23 dir_pin: nhk:gpio24
enable_pin: !nhk:gpio25
heater_pin: nhk:gpio9
sensor_pin: nhk:gpio29
pullup_resistor: 2200
sensor_type: ATC Semitec 104NT-4-R025H42G`

61
Nom nom (lemmy.world)
submitted 3 months ago by IMALlama to c/beebutts
 

As an aside, titling these things is getting harder by the post lol

 

Klipper aborted the print with:

Heater extruder not heating at expected rate Transition to shutdown state: Heater extruder not heating at expected rate See the 'verify_heater' section in docs/Config_Reference.md

Before any of this started,I goobered my original Rapido, so I replaced it with a Rapido 2. It's been in the printer since April, but I haven't done a ton of printing with it. After the replacement, all was well for a while. At some point, Klipper started randomly tripping thermal runaway protection. The spikes were instantaneous, so I suspected a wire break. It wouldn't be my first and they're usually easy to find. I moved the tool head around trying to find it with no success. I pulled apart both cable chains (yay Voron) to look for the wire break and didn't find one. I flipped the printer updside down and connections at the MCU - everything was fine. I went through the hot end and inadvertently pulled the thermistor out of the m3 slug. Here's a stock photo:

Suspecting a potential wire break at the thermistor, I manipulated the wiring to no real effect. Inside the M3 bung was some dried white stuff, which I think was probably Boron Nitride Paste. I bought some more from Slice Engineering and reinstalled the thermistor.

Two things changed after this. First, the terminator seems to be reading lower than it did before. I say this because I have a ton more stringing than I did previously. Second, the temperature is no longer spiking but it is doing this high frequency oscillation thing now.

The oscillation only happens once the printer is moving quickly. If it's still, or moving slowly, things are fine.

Thoughts? I'm suspecting the thermistor, but would like to troubleshoot if possible vs just throwing parts at the printer.

24
Whadda ya want? (lemmy.world)
submitted 3 months ago by IMALlama to c/beebutts
 

It looks like its throwing its arms in the air, much like I am doing right now realizing that my ambition of uploading bee photos from August is three months behind.

37
submitted 3 months ago* (last edited 3 months ago) by IMALlama to c/photography
 

Title basically. I've been "long term renting" a few camera bodies by purchasing used gear with the intention of selling what I didn't want to keep. I'm now at the point of thinning the heard. I'm partially writing this for myself, but am more than open to feedback :)

The cameras in the post photo are an OM-1 and an A7 III, but I'm really comparing the OM-1 against an A9 II. The A7 III is generally a solid camera, but its mechanical shutter is somewhat loud to use in places like museums with the kiddos and its electronic shutter catches tons of banding from modern lighting. Both the OM-1 and the A9 II solve that problem, although the A9 II does so a bit better (yay faster readout).

What do I take photos of?

Candid kids (playing, sports, etc), some pets, some bugs, some plants, some landscape. But mostly kids in various states of motion.

What lighting do I shoot in?

In other words, do I really need the ISO/DR performance? There are a few answers to this question. First, I shoot in a wide range of lighting:

Second, when I shoot in lower light I am able to decrease my shutter speed and/or use fast glass to keep ISO fairly low:

Third, I am wary of needing to push ISO in the future for faster motion + lower light, but this isn't currently a concern.

What kind of lenses am I using these days?

For shorter distances, fast(ish) primes. On the long end, telephoto zooms.

On e-mount, I have a pair of Sigma 35mm lenses: their f/1.4 and f/2.0. The 2.0 is much more compact and is on the camera most of the time. I also have Sony's 50mm 1.8, which I will likely upgrade if I keep the camera. Closing out my e-mount collection is Tamron's 150-500.

On M43, I have the 25mm 1.2 pro and 12-40mm. I don't yet have a long telephoto, but will buy one if I decide to stick with the OM-1.

OM-1 Pros

  • Of the cameras in this comparison, the burst rate of the OM-1 is frankly nuts
  • Feels more mechanical than it is. Turns on nearly immediately, even when sitting for a long time, and its controls are all very responsive
  • New M43 glass is cheaper than FF glass, used M43 glass is very available
  • M43 is a much more macro friendly mount, especially once you factor in 2x FF equivalency. For example, the 12-40 has 0.3x magnification, but when you factor in that the sensor is half the size of a FF sensor this is equivalent to 0.6x
  • The promise of compact
  • The promise of fast AF

OM-1 Cons

  • Minor one first. Since the camera isn't very popular accessories are somewhat harder to find and/or have less verity available
  • Even when in focus priority, it will happily take photos that are out of focus. This seems to be more of an issue for humans than say birds, but I happen to want to take photos of humans
  • Human face/eye detect works fairly well as long as faces/eyes leave the frame when they're lost. If the face/eye stays in the frame, and the camera starts to lose focus, it will continue to indicate focus on the face/eye as it slowly goes soft
  • FF lenses can be even more compact once you get into FF equivalency, especially when you get into shorter focal lengths. More on this later
  • The depth of field preview thing bugs me. For those who haven't shot M43, their preview (eg waving the camera around to get framing) and focusing happens wide open. They only step down when you're taking photos. They do have a depth of field preview button you can use, but the workflow turns into: press button, camera steps down, focus, camera opens, take photo, camera steps down 'just in time'
  • If you want GPS coordinates in your photos the companion app is very silly. The OM-1 can encode GPS coordinates as you take photos, but only if you launch the camera app and record your location as you're walking around. This requires you to take an action in the app. Leaving the app in this mode will drain your phone battery. Sony/Nikon/Fuji simply require the companion app to be running in the background on your phone
  • This is a quibble, but in a series of photos the OM-1 will fiddle with exposure a lot more than any other camera I've used. It's easy enough to address in post, but it's somewhat distracting while culling two very similarly framed photos with slightly different expsorues

A9 II Pros

  • Very easy to use autofocus. Set it to tracking flexible spot M or L, aim the camera at the thing you want, engage autofocus, forget about it
  • If it loses a face eye, it tells you immediately and often before that face/eye is out of focus. I've taken very few out of focus photos with this camera
  • Preview and focus are stepped down, although it will occasionally go wide open to acquire initial focus. Once focus has been achieved it will step back down
  • Huge quantity of available glass to fit basically any need/use case
  • Ability to push ISO
  • Large ecosystem around the camera

A9 II Cons

  • The HMI is laggy, the camera can take a long time to turn on if it has sat for a while
  • Expensive glass
  • Physical size/weight of of lens when you get into bigger focal lengths

One sentence each

A9 II = very easy to focus on taking photos (framing, depth of field, etc)

OM-1 = the promise of compact, very fast

On compactness

On the shorter side of the focal range: Once you factor in FF equivalency (2x better total light gathering thanks to surface area, 2 stop depth of field difference), my 25mm f1/2 turns into a 50mm 2.5. This means that I can put something like Sony's 50mm 2.5 G or Sigma's 50mm F2 DG DN on the A9 II and have very comparable image quality with a more compact lens.

On the telephoto end, my 150-500 spends a lot of time between 350 and 500. It's a sharp lens, it focuses quickly, renders nicely, and I really appreciate 500mm. But it's heavy at 1.7 kg and the zoom ring is pretty stiff. The closest M43 lens to it are the pair of 100-400s. They will admittedly gain me quite a bit of reach, but I don't need that reach right now. Physically, they're not much smaller than the 150-500, but they're 600 grams (the Olympus) and 750 grams (the Panasonic) lighter respectively. I do wonder how sharp the Panasonic 100-400 is and am somewhat wary of the Olympus 100-400 since in Sony land its Sigma counterpart has the reputation for somewhat slow AF.

 
40
submitted 3 months ago by IMALlama to c/beebutts
 

Or maybe there are no pockets?

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