3DPrinting

Hey y'all, I managed to hack together a printer from scratch and I'm struggling to get it to print well. It's a CoreXY system that's being controlled by a Octopus 1.1. Dual z screws, the works.

I have it moving under it's own power and all. It's able to actually print, but the results are atrocious.

I'm just trying to diagnose what's wrong here.

The bottom/first layer actually looks kinda good. It's just completely shredding subsequent layers.

Any advice would be appreciated!

I've always wondered if the expensive ones are worth it. There's a part 2 coming.

Hello! I havent printed too much, but have done enough to start looking at upgrades for my Ender 3 V2 with the stock V2.2 board. Mainly I've figured out that I want to go with a direct drive extruder and a more convenient hot end but as 3D printing has progressed a bit since I originally got my 3D printer to now I am having mild trouble on figuring out what is outdated information vs current. For example, im looking at something like a Micro Swiss DD with NG Revo hot end for simpler nozzle swaps but im not sure if there is a better solution.

Currently I primarily print with PLA but I have some TPU I want to print with and I may want to dabble in more abrasive filaments and potentially in the future I may want to look into some sort of multi filament system similar to an AMS but that is much down the road.

Hey guys, I work at a lab that has a small print farm. We recently had to get a supply of 2.5kg ESD filament as our vendor didn't have the usual 1kg spools in stock. The problem is these new spools are massive, and our filament dryers are nowhere near big enough to accommodate them.

I have this Cosori food dehydrator at home (picture below) that I've repurposed for filament drying, and I brought in one of its segments to see if the spool would fit inside; but the spool was still too large.

The spool dimensions are 3.875"H and a diameter of 11.75". Does anyone know of any food dehydrators that would be large enough to accommodate a spool of this size?

I'm currently doing research to see if I can find a large enough dehydrator, but all of the manufacturers I've so far looked at seem to only give external dimensions, not internal. If anyone knows of a good dehydrator, it would really help out!

Made this to keep track of small #2-56 / M2 screws for a project of mine

I tried printing with PETG yesterday, and I noticed that it intermittently stops moving during the print for a few seconds. It doesn't throw an error or anything, just stops and then after a few seconds resumes as if nothing happened. But this creates huge blobs where it stops. It only happens when printing PETG, not PLA. Could this be caused by a filament setting in my slicer? I'm using prusa slicer. I inspected the gcode and there are no stops, pauses or color changes etc. in it. The behaviour happens both when printing from octoprint and directly from SD card.

Edit: these random intermittent stops are 10-20 seconds long, causing massive blobs from oozing filament.

Edit 2: so it seems to not actually be a PETG specific issue, but rather a model size/speed issue. I can get it running without stops if I just reduce print speed. When I crank speed to 100% I start getting these weird 10-20 second long stops.

So I'm overloading the controller with a lot of gcode commands in rapid succession? I'm running at slightly lower than manufacturer default Max.

SOLVED: the gcode resolution was set too fine, I increased it from 0.0125mm to 0.5mm as described here and the stuttering disappeared.

It was too cold to go outside over the weekend, so I designed and printed this modular mini golf game.

This is the first project I’ve published online, so I’m super excited to share it!

Makerworld

Printables

The Head of the Cynic Philospher, Mennipus remixed into a planter.

File is out for free using the coupon code ‘Lemmy100’ or 50% off using code ‘Lemmy50%’ on www.PolymerPeculiarities.com, valid until 01/23/2024.

If you download and print it, post a picture of it? I enjoy seeing other filament choices

This is layer 2 or 3. It will be covered by the next few layers but I feel like it shouldn't be this fugly. I'm using Cura's Standard Quality except for temp which is set to 205. The filament is Inland PLA.

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.blahaj.zone/post/7641220

Any questions about them feel free to ask

I'm contemplating a Prusa MK4 + official enclosure and I'm looking at the way the enclosure handles filament feeding into the (N)extruder. Normally, filament is loaded directly from the spool into the extruder, but with the official enclosure, I see it's fed through a PTFE tube and coupler. It seems to me this would make changing filaments mid print quite a pain. Would I be ok simply feeding the filament into a PTFE tube, but cutting it way short of the extruder and simply feeding it in from there into the extruder without the tube?

I know this is very specific to my devices, but thought I'd share anyways. Really happy with how this came out and how convenient it is.

I have been playing with this idea for a while and finally designed it. This charges my ZFold3, Galaxy Watch6 and XROS vape all at the same time on my nightstand.
Phone and watch chargers are wireless, vape charger is a cable inserted to make a 'dock'.

I designed slots in the bottom so the cables all route out the back.

I added a little area at the front for miscellaneous items, like lip balm and coins.

I'm kicking myself now for not including a place to put my glasses, but I might design something to attach to this existing dock for them to go.

without phone/watch/vape

underside

I ended up doing some experimenting to see how low I can make the fans go without sacrificing print quality and came up with this profile that is significantly quieter. It prints a 22min flawless benchy despite lower fan speeds. Thought I'd share it in case anyone else wants to use it

I have been putting my K1 Max in my laundry room due to the jet-engine/vacuum cleaner sounds it makes when printing. I got annoyed having to move it when doing a load, so decided to try to quiet it down a bit so I can have it nearby in my office.

I used butyl sound dampening sheets on the side panels, but that only helped with vibration noise from the side fans. It helps, but not enough.

• Speed: 300 mm/s
• Acceleration: 12,000 mm/s²
• Max Fan: 40%
• Chamber Fan: Off
• Side Fan: 20%

Important: One thing to keep in mind is that if your minimum layer time (in cooling section) is too low your fans will run at 100% when your layers are less than this time, despite what you have fans set at in the profile. If you are printing a smaller model you might get some periods of high fan speed. Just adjust the min layer time for these instances. I have it set to 2 seconds, but 5 should be better for very small prints

Profile Download: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1o_MRKWpwETTULHfVH4gRRadcLowg9RR5/view?usp=sharing-

STL https://www.printables.com/model/538739-ringosaurus-ring-holder-with-tray

Kiddo wanted a ring holder. Kiddo gets a ring holder.

I would love to print this case for my Sofle v2 keyboard. Since I don't own a 3D printer (... yet) I would like to do this by using an online printing service like PCBWay. Before I order, I do have some questions, since I have never printed anything.

• What percentage of infill do you folks suggest? I was thinking 100% would be most stable.
• Would PLA be a good material? I was thinking on filling and sanding it.
• the project only has the parts for one side. Is there an easy way to mirror everything ?
• Do you guys know a good printing service in Tokyo?

If this is the wrong community please feel free to delete this post.

Picked up an Ender 3 off eBay after Christmas in an "brand new open box" state. Should be covered under warranty, and I shelled out an extra $6 for the Allstate Protection Plan, so I should have coverage even if the reseller drops off.

During unboxing, almost everything was neatly in its place. I noticed two oddities, however: the anti-static bag for the display panel was unsealed, open at one end; a piece of paper inside the box declared that the previous owner returned it as they had ordered it by mistake.

After assembly, I powered it on, but the display panel won't show anything but a blue screen. Reached out to the eBay store, who shipped out a replacement panel noting my observations above. Replaced the panel today, and there's no change in symptoms.

After powering it on, the extruder's fan spins, as does the power supply fan. The motherboard's fan does not. Display panel goes blue, without text. Pressing the button results in a beep on each press. I pulled the cover off the motherboard, and noted activity on two LEDs. After powering on, one near the fuse (labeled D3) lights up solid blue. The other, near the CPU (labeled O5), blinks twice quickly, then a long pause, followed by three more blinks. No idea if that's meant as a diagnostic code.

Nothing seems out of place when performing a visual inspection of the motherboard. Each connection is glued down, no scorch or blown components. I've tried updating the firmware, to no effect.

Board version: 4.2.2 CPU: GD32F303 RET6 Sticker on the MicroSD slot: H8

Waiting on the reseller to get back to me with their next steps, but I'm not expecting anything until the work week starts up. Any thoughts as to additional steps I might take while I'm waiting?

Update: reseller is shipping out a new motherboard to me.

Final update: new motherboard resolved the issue. I'm printing!

The Head of Bertel Thorvaldsen’s Dancing Girl remixed into a planter.

File is out for free using the coupon code ‘Lemmy’ on www.PolymerPeculiarities.com, valid until 01/20/2024.

If you, like me, live in a capitalist society and believe that people should be paid for their work, use coupon code ‘Lemmy50’ for 50% off.

I had previously posted about some horizontal line issues I've been having, and I tried a lot of the suggestions I got; Unfortunately the issue persists.

I saw a video today, where someone mentioned that these connections that are basically responsible for raising and lowering the printer head should be somewhat loose, and not tight (as I had them).

Does anyone know if this is true? The video creator said that it is to allow for some 'forgiveness' between the two screws that drive the printer head up and down.

Hey fellas!

I'm having an issue with Cura, when printing the first layer the start of the infill is under extruded. The issue is not present with Prusa slicer. Also, in Cura the issue only happens when the nozzle has to move to the infill position without extruding (there is no retraction!!), Cura A in the picture. When the infill starts immediately after the walls there is no problem, Cura B in the picture.

With Prusa Slicer there is no problem even if the nozzle has to move, and in this case there is even retraction. Because of this, I'm thinking that it's a problem with a parameter in Cura, but I don't know which.

Printer is a stock (but not for long...) Ender 3 Neo.

I tried changing flow, line width, retraction settings, increasing initial layer bottom flow, but it's the same. What parameter would affect this?

Cura A preview ; Cura A gcode

Cura B preview ; Cura B gcode

Prusa preview ; Prusa gcode

Obligatory "I got a 3d printer for Christmas" and I'm absolutely loving it, fell down the rabbit hole head first. However I'm currently dealing with an issue where my Neptune 4 Pro is slowing down to 7 mm/s when it is printing the outer walls despite being setup in Cura to print at 25mm/s. Filament is Overture PETG. Pictures show the Neptune touchscreen with the 7mm/s speed shown in the bottom left and a screengrab of the speed settings from Cura. Any help is greatly appreciated!

Im contemplating buying a printer on a tight budget. I heard Sovol makes good stuff, so im looking at their product line. I have heard that the SV07 uses V-rollers instead of linear rods, that the SV06 uses.

Im comforting with flashing microprocessors and building custom code. My priority list is as follows:

1. Open source, both hard and software
2. Part availability and software interoperability/ecosystem
3. Stability/quality of the build
4. Print quality and speed

What do you guys think? Any recommendations? Should i get myself a bone stock SV06 and upgrade it to klipper by flashing, or should i get a SV06 Plus with a klipper display already? Is there something else i should consider?

Very thankful for any advice.

edit: solved by printing at 20% of regular speed. This seems to give the filament enough time to ooze out of the nozzle, and the print result was excellent.

My Prusa MINI+ works like a charm, except with TPU. We have a 5-hour print task that starts well but fails after 2-3 hours because the TPU filament is no longer being pushed into the nozzle; instead it comes out of the extruder!

What could be causing this? Is the TPU just too soft and bendy? Is the shape of the extruder housing at fault?

It looks as if the TPU gets stuck and is then pushed into the extruder housing when the extruder continues to push. This happens again and again, but it's weird that it works well for hours before failing. The object is basically just a long block, so absolutely straightforward and no retractions.

We have checked that the nozzle is clean and has no obstructions. We have opened the extruder every time it happens, and there's no obvious problem to see (see photo 2 here).

We are considering to print a new lid for the extruder housing, see photo 3 here: (1) is the exit hole, and (2) is the cavity where the TPU ends up so it might help to change the lid (3) to a shape that does not leave a cavity there. Or is the problem that the roller (4) is too narrow or too soft?

For reference, the filament is Tinmorry black TPU from Amazon.

Just about all of my prints have these lines at around the same heights, and I can't figure out why. I tried changing the nozzle, changing the layer height from 0.15 to 0.12, and changing the speed from 60mm to 40mm. All of these seemed to have helped a bit, yet they remain. I was thinking maybe as the prints get to a certain height, the shaking of the bed (Prusa MK2) caused the layers to be slightly offset perhaps. Anyone have any other ideas?