3DPrinting

My eye's not twitching. Your eye is twitching.

Needed as soon as possible a spool holder for larger spools so printing anything that is dozens of hours was out of the question.

Solution? Looked at the heavy shelves and had an idea.

One remix later, a 1-hour print and with some round wood that was lying around this spool holder was born.

I like the position of the spool so much that it is here to stay.

Got another case print for you guys. Got an alternate charger for my laptop and I needed something to keep it safe in my bag. There's 2 variations on the lid.

While I acknowledge the expectations Ellis tries to set, all the youtubers out there have me chasing a dragon looking for better and better layer aliment on my z-axis. I suspect (at least) one of you will come out of the woodwork and say your printer has better aligned layers than mine too 😭 I'm certainly not alone, but even in that thread you can find some people claiming that not everyone experiences the issue

So far, I've been through three iterations on my CW2:

• BMG gears with a grub screw
• BMG Integrated Drive Gear Assembly (IDGA). Press fit gear = no more grub screw
• FYSETC CNC Pom w/ Helical gears, since evidently the BMG gears can still be somewhat offset

Results below with me hand holding my cellphone and moving a Pixar style desk lamp to be at a progressively steeper angle to the face of the cubes. Left = FYSTEC Pom (I also used Orcaslicer), middle = BMG IDGA, right = 'normal' BMGs. Note that the cubes are upside down.

Vanity shot with very soft and indirect light

Direct light, 90 degrees to the face of the cubes (basically perpendicular)

Direct light, ~45 degrees to the face of the cubes

Direct light, ~5 degrees to the face of the cubes (basically parallel)

At this point, I am going to shrug, give up, and print with fuzz (or avoid harsh light).

I've been chasing inconsistent top layers for a little while when my first layer also started going... very sideways. My printer uses the nozzle to home on a micro switch, which meant that something was probably loose. Initially I was thinking the end stop or carriage, but who would have thought that the printer had shaken the hot end apart over time.

Note to anyone else who runs into this: there is no mechanical stop for those screws and tightening them too far will mash the hot bits into the cold bits. This will cause the hot bits to crimp closed just enough to no longer let filament through. If you find yourself in this situation, find (or buy) a small punch - you can use the taper on a punch to reverse the situation. Don't ask me how I discovered any of this. Why there is no thread lock from the factory, who knows. If anyone reminds me, I'll be sure to let you know how well purple loctite has held up. There's also another screw that goes into the side of the heat break to hold everything in place. That one was loose too.

2.5 hours later: all better!

Lessons learned: multiple, but if you start seeing inconsistent behavior look for a mechanical issue and don't be afraid to tear your printer down.

My router (makita) was supplied with a copying guide but the opening was too small.

I've look online but I could not managed to find the right size so I did what any sane person would do: print one

Edit: more pictures of the result

One of the stepper motors' switch things (the metal part that hits the bar to tell the motor it's at one end of the track) came out and it's either bent too much or snapped off (it's so small I can't really tell) and it doesn't go back in place, which means I can't use the printer because the motor with the head on it doesn't know when it has reached the end of the track and just tries to keep going if I don't stop it.

My first thought was to print a new piece but... That won't work when I have to use the printer to do that. The motor itself is great. It's just that stupid little metal triangle thing used to give the teeny tiny switch some more surface area to be pressed.

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/13199828

Printed using hatchbox wood pla. I had a few issues with standoffs but a little glue fix those right up. I'm very happy with the way it turned out. Just waiting on the release of flippy drive to call it complete.

Links to all the models I used:

https://www.thingiverse.com/tessa-wolf/designs https://www.printables.com/model/469283-gamecube-jewel https://www.printables.com/model/117561-gamecube-power-button https://www.printables.com/model/280005-gamecube-reset-button https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2644517

I really didn't like how my usb connection powered the printer control screen, so rebooting required switching off AND unplugging.

Searched Amazon for "USB a power blocker". Problem solved.

I have an Ender 3 S1 that I use every couple of months at this point because it's just such a pain to use. I have to adjust the bed tramming and z offset and run auto bed leveling for every single print and often times that's still not good enough.

It will often take 30+ minutes just to get the first layer going down successfully.

Is this a me problem or did I lose the creality lottery?

~~It looks like they've got a ton of cool projects on the website, but whenever I try to go to any of them it just gives a 404 error.

Just wondering if anyone's run into to this or knows what's going on with it.~~

This was just an error on my part. I forgot that I'd installed libredirect, and the 'destructables' website is just a frontend for instructables.com

🤦

I think it's finally upgrade time. While I love my Neptune 2, it definitely has its issues.

Ideally, my next printer would have:

• Built-in auto leveling, so I don't have to install a BL Touch
• An enclosure
• Be slightly larger than the Neptune 2
• Open source firmware
• OctoPrint support

I was looking at the Prusa MK4, but it seems like a high price for what you get. Any recommendations?

I accidentally sanded my print a little too much, I don't want to reprint it since it took 12 hours, is there something I can use like clay or putty that I can apply to readd the rounded art that is sandable and that I can put primer on and paint over?

Tldr; does anyone know of an upgraded extruder that will fit a Geeetech i3 Pro B?

Long version: I have a Geeetech i3 Pro B that I’ve had for years now. I don’t exactly use it loads but I do like having it to print random tools and bits for my other hobbies (mostly car bits). The problem is this useless thing just jams up all the time with no explanation. I was using it fine about a month ago and then just came back to it yesterday (actually excited that it wasn’t broken for once and I could just use it), then when I went to change the filament I realised the stupid shit had jammed again. I seem to have a constant rotation of heatbreaks on this thing. Even when I got it out I couldn’t see any reason why it had jammed at all. It wouldn’t be so bad but it’s a total pain to replace since it’s not compatible with the compressions clips. I can’t even see how it could be changed to use one since the hotend is supported by the heatbreak. I looked at somehow modifying an Ultimaker one for it but it looks like it would be tricky to mod.

I would just buy a new one but if I was to do that I’d want something like a Bambu thing that would make printing much easier, but I can’t really justify spending that much. I definitely don’t want to spend a bunch of money just to end up with something that’s basically the same and will require all the tubing again.

I better stop writing now as it’s turned into a big rant.

EDIT: the clickbait YT thumbnail is garbage. This is actually a useful Blender tutorial that is short and direct without trying to bait you into plugins.

https://piped.video/watch?v=MezOnZN1x18

Uploaded to YT today 3/15/24.

(No affiliation between myself and the CC "3D Jake". That is just a coincidence)

With this particular model, Prusaslicer is very optimistic about bridging and support generation:

1. the right side (dark blue) has no support that could help with load-bearing
2. the entire layer will be connected to those two lines
3. more than 5cm long bridges

I don't think this gcode will successfully print.

How do fix adjust the cura setting to generate a printable output?

The model in question is: https://www.delta-fan.com/Download/3D/BUB0612HJ-00.stp

Just wanted to share a little success, after some wrangling I've finally got an M600 macro working on Klipper. I've been trying to print some ornaments for my holiday tree (a Christmas tree that I'm never taking down). These turned out pretty great!

(Ignore the wago connectors, they're "temporary")

ETA:

I used all Voxel PLA and found the model on printables. Sliced with Prusaslicer and just added the color changes at the appropriate layers.

A word to the wise for anyone experiencing this in Prusa Slicer or its derivatives, where your top layers of large flat objects get generated by extruding these weird discontinuous diagonal stripes that seem to get pathed out in random order.

Change you top layer pattern from "rectilinear" (which may be your default) to "monotonic."

This just took me a fair bit of fiddling to figure out, and I wasted an hour and some filament cranking out one shitty looking part. Apparently this model in particular causes this effect, which the slicer has never generated for me before. I have no idea why.

Maybe this'll save somebody from banging their head against the wall too hard.

Alt link: https://piped.video/watch?v=QI_R1EMU8yc

This video got posted today and is ideal for something I am working on right now.

The way this person posts is particularly useful for me. They are working on accessible isolated mechanisms that have many potential applications.

There are a lot of people making content where they show off some of their large projects like robots and radio controlled stuff, but I have never made any of these in practice. I don't waste time on the printer social websites any more. It is almost always faster for me to design something properly, for 3D printing, where I control the clearances, eliminate the need for supports, and print it right the first time.

So, do you have any sources like this when it comes to mechanisms and inspiration where you've actually incorporated designs or concepts into your own designs?

I watched a 3D printing youtuber say that Adam Savage said 20% but 10% is what he uses.

I have never seen my sunlu dryer show anything bellow 23% even after days of use and I have no idea how to achieve 10 without cooking the filament.

Running an ender 5 and while my board technically works fine, the USB socket popped off and despite my best efforts the joint holders are too damaged to solder a new one.

I mean maybe it's about time, I had lost the original config file anyways. Does anyone have an idea of what's "good" these days? Not really looking to spend more than $200 if I can help it

Hoping someone has an idea on this!

I’ve been making little Disney trinkets for my wife to hand out when we go to Disneyland, and feedback has been positive enough that I thought I’d try a little Etsy store to make some filament money.

Initially I added it into my base template in TinkerCAD but it kept coming out real bad, so I’ve been trying adding the text within Creality Print, and usually it looks pretty good but it can be wildly inconsistent.
The top two are from a batch of five where I set one up and then duplicated it. The middle two are from a batch of eleven, all duplicated from the first five that looked nice, and then the bottom two are that same batch of five that I tried printing a second time and it turned out way worse.

Any idea on why it varies so much and what I could do to resolve it?

My prints come out very well but I’m noticing on larger prints that one corner of my bed prints tighter than the opposite. What’s causing this?

Printing on an Ender 3 Pro with upgraded metal extruder, beefier bed springs and metal levelers, and upgraded hot end. Not direct drive yet and no auto bed leveling.