Hex key and mini clamp came in handy for battling a lifting edge
This really summarises the passive aggressive level you get to with a 3D printer: “Lift off the bed now you little fucker!”
this post was submitted on 10 Nov 2023
110 points (96.6% liked)
3DPrinting
15657 readers
68 users here now
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: [email protected] or [email protected]
There are CAD communities available at: [email protected] or [email protected]
Rules
-
No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
-
Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
-
No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
-
No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
-
Do not create links to reddit
-
If you see an issue please flag it
-
No guns
-
No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is 
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
founded 2 years ago
MODERATORS
You must have been really close to the end for that to work. I've tried many hacks but few really work for me in-situ for more that a dozen layers.
There wasn't much left and nothing that would collide with it. Seemed to work well enough
I usually use glue stick but just ran out
Usually? Like for routine pla prints? I've found myself having to do this (man I love magigoo) but the masses say I really shouldn't have to. Kinda validating if this is actually a thing.
If you have corners lifting during big prints it's nearly always due to a bad first layer or warping. An enclosure, even if it has an open lid since PLA doesn't really like high enclosure temps, would probably do wonders. But if you have an i3 style printer, enclosures can be kind of a PITA. You could also try a draft shield. Basically tell your slicer to print a skirt that's the same height as the print itself.
Pla can also warp when not cooled enough. Although with a a decent textured Pei sheets you should never have pla adhesion issues honestly
Have you tried hairspray? I definitely prefer it as it's easy to put on and gives nice, even coverage.
Not yet, I need to try that
Have they not invented blue painters tape where you're from?
I oddly usually have the other problem, my prints stick too good, the bottom of the print is white (though it is black PLA+) and it sometimes deforms my magnetic mat doohickey while trying to pry it free. Drives me crazy.
Your extruder might be set too low.
I'll try turning it up, iirc I have been running like 220° for PLA+.
I meant your extruder's z-offset it too low not the temperature.
Ahh I can try raising it, thanks!
Printing din rail?
It's an LED strip diffuser, this is the mount part
I had a huge problem with lifting edges. But since I bought Dimafix Spray all of my issues are gone. I also use brim with increased size to ger near perfect result. I print ABS.
I usually use glue stick and never have issues but I just ran out.
Brims are a good idea for the meantime though
This is only PlA+ so it should be behaving with a heated bed alone
I've only done 3 prints with abs but I used a g10 plate and it worked fabulously. I heard one of the damn prints pop off the plate with a snap when the bed dropped below 60c, that was wild to me.
I also found a huge difference between filaments. Creality was terrible for me, Reflow is great
Ever since it was suggested to rub glue stick over the print bed beforehand, I haven't had a single issue with raising bits of my prints. Bought a huge school supply case of them like 4 years ago. I've used up 2 entire sticks.
Though skeptical about trying it at first, I've found that Aquanet hairspray works amazingly on those creality glass beds. Keeps PLA on, and prevents PETG from bonding.