this post was submitted on 30 Dec 2024
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Septic clean out cap (reddthat.com)
submitted 3 days ago by [email protected] to c/3dprinting
23 comments fedilink hide all child comments
 

So my dad broke the septic clean out cap with the lawn mower. He cannot find a replacement that is lower to the ground so I am printing a new one. Should I use PETG? Or another material. Also I hope this is not violating some form of regulation in the U.S.

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[–] [email protected] 13 points 3 days ago* (last edited 3 days ago) (2 children)

ASA is the peak material for outdoor prints with the best uv and weather resistance. It is quite a bit expensive but worth it imo if it's not something you want to replace every 2 years. Downside is it must be dried before use every time and printed in a good enclosure printer, ideally preheated.

How big is the cap? Is it a threaded pipe clean out cap or a manhole sized cap?
There are codes regulating the loads a septic cap has to support (preventing people from falling in) as well as some need for atmospheric sealing. If you have to print in multiple sections I don't know how tight you can make it and how strong it can really be if there is glue involved.

[–] IMALlama 3 points 3 days ago (3 children)

Agree on ASA. I have some PLA+ prints that have been outdoors 24/7/365 for going on 5 years now and they're holding up really well, so that's another good option.

I've been printing ASA for about a year and a half and haven't dried a spool yet. I guess it all hinges on a mix of relative humidity in your area and how much you care about a flawless finish.

[–] GhostlyPixel 3 points 3 days ago* (last edited 3 days ago) (1 children)

Are your PLA+ prints under any load at all? I have some PLA+ pieces that I have printed to repair outdoor Halloween and Christmas decorations which are at some stress points in the decorations and I have to replace them at the start of each season because they get so brittle by the time the holidays are over. Hoping to try PETG next year.

[–] IMALlama 2 points 2 days ago

They're under an intermittent load, but it's probably not very high. Interestingly, the parts don't seem very brittle. I suspect the exact materials in PLA+ probably vary wildly between blends/companies, so their material properties likely have some variation.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 2 days ago (1 children)

Ehhh, I find that PLA doesn't survive well in continuously wet environments- gets kinda cheese-y like.

Thats interesting you havent had any problems with it being wet though. ASA must be a lot more sensitive to manufacturer, because I had four complete spools of Bambu that just wouldn't do shit without drying, and I'm about 30/80 on spools of Overture ASA that need drying vs don't.

[–] IMALlama 1 points 2 days ago

I wonder what the various companies blend into their pla+. This stuff is from a company that's since gone out of business, but it seems to shrug off UI, rain, and ice/snow. It wasn't matter hackers, but they had a similar name from what I recall. USA made and cheap, but their QC wasn't great.

As for ASA, I've only printed Polymaker. I buy the 3kg spools when they go on sale and it's hard to beat 3kg for $70 or so. I am tempted to try another brand to see if it prints differently though.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 3 days ago* (last edited 3 days ago) (1 children)

Did you anneal your PLA+ prints (edit: or any other post-processing) or did they go outside straight off the printer?

[–] IMALlama 2 points 2 days ago

Straight off the printer! I've never tried annealing and the minimal amount of poking around has been somewhat inconclusive. I tend to change materials when I want different physical properties. The vast majority of my prints are functional, and don't need to be super pretty, so I buy mostly ASA and PETG these days.

IME, PLA prints nicer than PETG, which in turn prints nicer than ASA. Also IME, ASA supports are super nice to remove. PETG is a massive PITA.

Thankfully, I haven't had a print that demanded very nice surface finished and also strength/ruggedness.

[–] j4k3 1 points 3 days ago (1 children)

Maybe chemistry is an issue too. Septic is what, methane/(?)?

[–] [email protected] 2 points 3 days ago

ASA is basically inert unless you're dealing with weird acids or acetone so I don't worry about the chemistry too much. PETG will generally be a little better chemically but nothing that you'd see in a sewer.

[–] [email protected] 4 points 3 days ago* (last edited 3 days ago)

I don’t know about other materials so make that decision first but I’ll say opaque PETG will do better with UV than translucent.

But honestly just paint the top that’ll be getting hit by the sun.

Make sure it’s not like, going to get crazy hot in the summer and melt to the opening and seal it, could be a nightmare.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 3 days ago (2 children)

ABS is probably the best since it's more resistant to UV light.

[–] [email protected] 6 points 3 days ago

You mean ASA?

[–] [email protected] 5 points 3 days ago

PETG has better UV resistance than ABS

[–] j4k3 0 points 3 days ago* (last edited 3 days ago) (1 children)

Generally, regulations are for construction contractors. You likely won't pass some kind of plumbing inspection if you hired a contractor to do something that requires a permit, but otherwise you're free to do whatever. I'm no expert here, and you should be doing due diligence. My old man does inspecting type work in another type of industry and this is how it was explained to me, but that is an unrelated field. Different regions may have very different regulations.

[–] spongebue 0 points 3 days ago* (last edited 3 days ago) (1 children)

Erm, no? Most municipalities require building permits, even for homeowners to do work on their own home, and those permits require work be done to code.

Does that always happen? Of course not. I also went 5-10 over the speed limit on the freeway yesterday, but that doesn't mean traffic regulations are for commercial vehicles only.

[–] j4k3 2 points 3 days ago (1 children)

There is usually a dollar amount involved for what can be done before a permit is required. You're allowed to make minor changes required in the spirit of maintenance. So something like replacing a refrigerator and the old width being too small. If you cut the countertop to accommodate, no permit is legally required. The same can be said about almost every aspect of the home. That margin of what exactly is considered maintenance versus modification is what varies by area.

The other factor I've heard is that the changes must fall into what's undefined on the blueprints of record. If it is not specified in the blueprints, you are free to make the changes.

Again, I'm no expert here. I really wish I had the option to remove the mod badge when I only wish to post as a user. I could certainly be wrong. This is intended as a helpful but just water cooler talk amongst friends level conversation. When it comes to house mods and permits, this is how everyone I know does things.

[–] spongebue 1 points 3 days ago (2 children)

Plugging a device into an outlet (be it a refrigerator, phone charger, or even an EV charge cord) does not require a permit. That's normal expected use. Counters are not regulated by code. There is nothing to get a permit for in your example, and not because of the dollar amount.

Adding an outlet to support that device would to ensure proper wire gauge, space covered by the breaker, GFCI protection, and stuff like that is done correctly.

But to say that regulations don't apply to homeowners is wrong. You likely don't need to be a licensed electrician or plumber or whatever to work on your own home, but the regulations of what you do/how you do it almost certainly apply.

[–] dual_sport_dork 2 points 3 days ago* (last edited 3 days ago) (1 children)

Plugging a device into an outlet (be it a refrigerator, phone charger, or even an EV charge cord) does not require a permit.

Want to bet? In my county, it is technically a requirement to pull a permit and get permission from the county government to install a window air conditioner. You know, the kind you slam the window shut on and plug into an outlet as the sum total of its "installation?" And you're going to remove again in the fall? (Removal requires another permit.) Obviously the compliance rate with this is zero, but it legally gives them something to harass just about anyone over any time they feel like it.

Never underestimate the insanity of the petty egos who have small amounts of authority.

[–] spongebue 0 points 3 days ago (1 children)

I would bet a small amount of money that's related to the mounting of a heavy piece of equipment halfway outside creating a potential hazard.

It also contributes to my original point that regulations are not just for contractors. I get that not everything is followed to the letter (kinda like my speed limit analogy) but to imply that homeowners can do anything they want with their property and supporting that claim with benign things that don't have safety requirements is laughably wrong (in most civilized areas of the US at least - admittedly there will be exceptions when this is generally handled at the municipal/county level)

[–] dual_sport_dork 2 points 2 days ago

No, it's because the county decided that "all installation and removals of HVAC, air handling, heating, and cooling equipment" require a permit and did not stop to think initially that this is worded in such an overbroad manner that it also technically encompasses window and portable air conditioners, and theoretically also portable space heaters as well. All means all. It's just that window AC is the only thing visible from the outside of your home, so the inspectors can bust your balls for it from the street if they feel like hassling you for something.

I'm sure the local government loves it as well because if a "violation" is noticed from the street it gives them a legal avenue to enter the properties of people they don't like (i.e. poor people, blacks, hispanics, etc.) to troll for additional citations or other generalized harassment.

[–] j4k3 1 points 3 days ago (1 children)

These guys seem to imply taking out a non load bearing wall does not require a permit: https://remodelingdoneright.nari.org/homeowner-resources/questions-to-ask/when-do-i-need-a-permit

That implies all the electrical, flooring, ceiling, and attic work is not a factor either. Altering a load bearing wall would require permitting. That is how I've always heard it said too. It is not a great primary source, bit I don't care more than a basic search and first link I see reply either, so it is confirmation biased as such.

[–] spongebue 2 points 3 days ago* (last edited 3 days ago)

Yes, walls (including non-load bearing) still need to be checked for safety. While not as critical as load-bearing, they still need checks for things like proper materials, stud spacing, and that a hallway is wide enough for firefighters to get in with their equipment. Speaking of firefighters, fire blocking is also required.

I dunno what else to say here. I've done plenty of home improvement projects and have had many inspections by my city, including a basement finish (which takes framing, plumbing, electrical, HVAC...). My city even has a workshop to teach homeowners what's needed per code (at a high level) and emphasizes pulling a permit. My dad did plenty of projects in another state growing up, and all that took permits as well. So it's not like my city is just being weird.