3DPrinting

Running an ender 5 and while my board technically works fine, the USB socket popped off and despite my best efforts the joint holders are too damaged to solder a new one.

I mean maybe it's about time, I had lost the original config file anyways. Does anyone have an idea of what's "good" these days? Not really looking to spend more than $200 if I can help it

Hoping someone has an idea on this!

I’ve been making little Disney trinkets for my wife to hand out when we go to Disneyland, and feedback has been positive enough that I thought I’d try a little Etsy store to make some filament money.

Initially I added it into my base template in TinkerCAD but it kept coming out real bad, so I’ve been trying adding the text within Creality Print, and usually it looks pretty good but it can be wildly inconsistent.
The top two are from a batch of five where I set one up and then duplicated it. The middle two are from a batch of eleven, all duplicated from the first five that looked nice, and then the bottom two are that same batch of five that I tried printing a second time and it turned out way worse.

Any idea on why it varies so much and what I could do to resolve it?

My prints come out very well but I’m noticing on larger prints that one corner of my bed prints tighter than the opposite. What’s causing this?

Printing on an Ender 3 Pro with upgraded metal extruder, beefier bed springs and metal levelers, and upgraded hot end. Not direct drive yet and no auto bed leveling.

CyberLevel is a digital horizon indicator that is gyro compensated. Basically it’s a bubble level that doesn’t go crazy when moving it always shows true level.

I love that having a 3d printer means you can create custom parts when you need them. I wanted a set of leveling brackets for a router table insert. Sketched up something in Solid Edge, sent it to the printer and a few hours later I have what I need. Nothing complex but functional. Used PETG on this set.

I liked a few of the VSOs that were posted earlier and wanted to share two of my more recent creations.

This mount screws into an exposed 2x4 and lets me get my Synology DS418, its power brick, and UPS (APC BE600M1) off a table and into a lower dust area of my basement.

I'll upload the STLs to printables if anyone is interested, but be warned that the parts are fairly large.

In the spirit of showing parts under unflattering lighting, here's (nearly) the same angle with a different light source.

What cameras did you add to your 3D printer? What is your favorite camera angle?

For me, the nozzle cam watching the first layer is my personal favorite (OV9281 image sensor).

Customize your own with the OpenSCAD script at https://www.printables.com/model/63198-stylish-plant-labels

Solving everyday problems that shouldn't exist in the first place: That's the 3D printing way.

https://www.printables.com/model/794247-keurig-mini-no-splash-platform/files

The problem with the K-Mini is that it's too damn tall on the Z axis. The machine can only hold 10 ounces of water in the first place, maybe 11 or 12 if you stretch it above the max. fill line, so that's largest pour it can ever do. But for some reason the outlet nozzle is mega far away from the drip tray. 6", in fact.

So that means as your coffee dribbles into your mug that is, if it's relatively normal, between 3 and 3-1/2" tall, it splashes all over everything. The backboard on the machine, the outside of your mug, the countertop, the floor. Where do they expect anyone to find a 10 or 12 ounce coffee cup that's 6" tall? Do they think you'll drink the stuff out of a test tube?

So enter this. Print it, assemble it, stick it on the drip tray. This lifts your mug 33mm, and can be wound out to further lift it to about 55mm, which is plenty enough work with any mug in my house without finding the cats licking coffee off the floor later.

(And yes, I do use reusable filters with it and no, I don't need to be whined at about "food safe." Do you drink your coffee out of the drip tray? Of course you don't. Don't be stupid.)

Is there a slicer that let's you configure sections of the model to print at a different layer height?

I often have some larger models I'm printing, and 0.3mm layers are just fine for this to speed things up, but some of the overhangs print very poorly with thick layers and require thinner layers to print well.

I upgraded two Prusa MK3s to MK3.9, and ended up with a couple of spare boards, stepper motors and a bunch of other things. So I decided to turn them into a Makelangelo clone!

Since the school I work at had these large standing whiteboards, I designed and printed corner brackets to hold the motors, as well as a base for the electronics.

I'm still having trouble with the homing process, but very happy with the results so far!

I'll be posting the firmware and 3d printed files online soon.

Does anyone have a brand of PLA they like that offers refillable spools? I'm digging Overture and Elegoo using cardboard spools but if I could get/print a refillable one and buy just the filament itself going forward that would be an even nicer solution.

Hi all. Yesterday, my printer stopped responding to commands from the touch screen, so I shut the printer off and turned it back on. Now, the printer and screen turn on (power fan spins and screen backlight comes on), but the screen does not display anything, and the printer cannot be reached via USB. Multiple power outlets and cables have been tried, and all cables inside the main chassis are securely connected except for the Z- cable (which has been replaced by a BLTouch). There is a single red LED on the motherboard that lights up when the machine is powered on. Does anyone have any ideas how I can try to diagnose this? I've sent an email to elegoo, but I've heard it can take weeks to get a response, and I'm trying to get things ready for a DnD campaign starting this weekend.. thanks for any tips.

Edit: for anyone finding this post looking for help, you're SOL. Elegoo responded to me, and after sending them a couple pictures, they've determined my motherboard to be dead, and are not willing to provide a free replacement since I'm just outside of warranty. Now I'm torn between getting a new motherboard (waiting on a quote from them) or just saving for a better printer.

Edit 2: after some very light complaining, Elegoo is making right and sending me a new motherboard free of charge.

Heads up that functional print community on kbin is probably dying because kbin developer disappeared. There's a fork, called mbin, and the new community is https://fedia.io/m/functionalprint

Source https://kbin.social/m/functionalprint/t/874333

In other news, if you try to upload a file named uncalibrated_example.stl to Thingiverse, it fails with no error message, because somewhere they have a pr0n filter searching for rated*x.

Some people might find this bundle_scad.py code useful. It combines an STL, SCAD, and all its dependencies into a single file.

Hey,

Still fairly new to this hobby and have lots of ideas but I've got a snag with a few prints now and was hoping someone could help me work out what I'm doing wrong.

The project is small trays for a custom advent calendar but as you can see the corner on the second picture has lifted massively.

This has happened before with a different print too and I never solved that issue either.

Using an Ender 3 Pro with some generic filament from amazon, hot end at 200C (goes stringy any higher), bed was 50C for this print I think.

Any help would be wonderful :)

I have a trio of identical printers I want to sell. I posted them on Craigslist and got literally no response.

I posted them on eBay and sold one but for 1/4 the asking price. It also cost me a fortune to ship it.

Does anyone here have experience doing this and mind sharing your knowledge?

Folds down to fit inside a 1kg filament box. Upsidedown let's the complicated moving bits be in the base where there's less vibration. Krylan3D originally designed this to easily take in a backpack back and forth from college, but is now hired and working on designing other 3d printers. So the community has made improvements and made it easier to make yourself. Parts cost about $550.

The niche bullshit will continue until... Well, actually it'll continue indefinitely.

https://www.printables.com/model/791788-pilot-parallel-cap-with-pocket-clip

I just got done solving my years-long festering irritation with my spread of Pilot Parallel fountain pens, which come with a caps that ain't got pocket clips. Among other flaws. They bloody well have clips on 'em now.

You can download it on:

• Printables: https://www.printables.com/model/791235

• Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6514969

I've been wanting to make this for a while now. I've previously made controller spools for NES, SNES, and DualShock Controllers, but this odd design of the GameCube controller has always pushed me away from making one.

However with the addition of a Supporting pillar and some fun design curves, it's working the way I want it to, and it can be flat packed in a 2cm shipping box.

I want to buy a 3D printer for about 200-250€ but I'm unsure which one to get. There are printers that a lot of people recommend but others say they're a piece of garbage.

The ones I found so far are these:

• Creality Ender 3 V3 SE - 182,94€
• Anycubic Kobra 2 Neo - 199,00€
• Sovol SV06 - 239,00€

There's also the open source firmware Klipper, which a lot people recommend but from what I understand, you need a Raspberry Pi for that. I do have a Pi 4 that I was planning to sell that I could use for that instead.

Would be great if some of you who know more than me could help me decide what to get.

Don't know why but i my printer has been printing the first layer unevenly