3DPrinting

That's what I get for not checking my vat before starting a print right after another one.

Edit: For those that don't know there's supposed to be a nice little screen sized rectangle visible without the fancy looking lowercase "t" pattern.

The screen is broken and needs replacement. So does the FEP as it didn't fair too well either but I already have a few on hand just in case things go sideways.

Edit 2: For anyone who's curious the whole process took me 2 hours to complete. I went in blind and it's good as new if not better. Honestly it's working hella good to the point where I actually had to lower my exposure time because my stuff was now getting overexposed. It's amazing what a new FEP and LCD will do.

Hi

A couple of days ago the hotend wouldn't heat up and i got a couple of errorcodes/warnings in the display. The bed heats up just fine, so i ordered a new hotend parts (heater, thermistor and a new aluminum block). Changed all of this, but still the same error. I can se that the thermistor works because it changes values in the display when touching the thermistor-end. Any good ideas why the heater doesn't heat?

Is there a way to uncut/key a file? I want to print it all as one piece.

I'm wanting to heavily mod my 3D45. I basically want to use a raspberry pi to run it, but just repurpose the existing hardware. I am new to this area of 3d printing, and would love some suggestions to get started. I know of octoprint, but does it do all of the reading gcode?

Hi all, got a bit of a technical problem I'm trying to solve and I've got very little programming experience.

Basically, I'm trying to create a folder with a bunch of filament profile cfg files, with things like retraction distance, temperature, flow rate etc preloaded into them. That way, I can slice a model for a 0.6mm nozzle, send it to Klipper, and run it with any filament I want without having to re-slice, just change which cfg file is loaded.

This is going pretty well and I've figured out how to get most of what I want into the cfg. However, I want to limit my print speed by my maximum volumetric flow rate, a variable that Klipper does not support (and Kevin has more or less denied requests to have it added). To solve this issue, I want to limit the max speed instead, using a formula like this:

print speed = (max vol. flow) / (nozzle width) / (layer height)

(max vol. flow) and (nozzle width) would be defined manually by me for each profile. The only issue is (layer height), which of course can change from print to print. I know that my slicer puts the layer height and total number of layers in the header of the gcode, I also understand that that's where Klipper gets this info from and how it displays those numbers once you've selected a file. What I'm having trouble figuring out is how I can send that number into the above formula; I found this which seems to be almost what I need, but I can't figure out how to use the "print_stats object" in my cfg.

A potential workaround is to find my maximum layer height for each nozzle/filament combo and set the max speed assuming that later height, but if I'm printing something at say half my maximum layer height that's going to severely unnecessarily reduce my print speed.

Any advice?

I can see the wire break in the cable chain :'(

This is super neat.

(Wait, what? This is from 2022??? I have known about CAL for a while, but this glass stuff is new to me.)

3DPN video: https://youtu.be/pkBP_eO-Pug?si=l4__tZwrNDB4qNlU

CAL: computed axial lithography

Researchers at UC Berkeley have developed a new way to 3D-print glass microstructures that is faster and produces objects with higher optical quality, design flexibility and strength, according to a new study published in the April 15 issue of Science.

I found this design and it fitted my need perfectly. It is a mount for a very popular camera lens used in astrophotography. It not only functions as a weight relief for the camera but also allows to rotate the field of view. Moreover it is possible to focus the lens with the installation of a stepper motor, which will be the next step.

The single parts are screwed together with the help of threaded heat inserts. Just to make sure they are also glued together with epoxy, as the mount really needs to hold up. The screws are locked with Loctite.

Edit: Link to the mount (not my design): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6099113

I was given an Ender 3 Pro last week and after a few bumps managed to successfully CAD, slice and print a booster seat for my phone. The caddy as it was would grab the volume down button on my phone, this little wedge solves the issue!

I'm a huge fan of octoprint on raspberry pi. I'm not a huge fan of raspberry pi lately. I've heard of le potato and orange pi. Some searching shows that people have done it on both of those.

Does anyone have any experience running it on a small board computer other than raspi?

I've been doing functional ABS and ASA lately and had a couple very annoying warpage spots. One was a total failure. (We won't talk about the other 3 failures that were wet out-of-the-box Bambu ASA...)

The X1C is definitely nice, but the all aluminum-and-glass side panelling has a sometimes-unwanted side effect: thermal conduction.
The aluminum sides are so conductive that they do not allow the chamber temp to go above 40C, even after a couple hours of heat soaking the build plate at 100C before starting an ABS print.
Enter: One random bath towel. doesn't look like much but just covering the three sides with a thin layer means it's good enough insulation to get the chamber up to 50C now! And the ABS parts look better than ever- every C counts.

(for various reasons I needed to join a mismatched pair of 18v drill and battery, annoyed at how much fun it was)

What are your favorite prints when you have too little filament left on a spool for anything interesting and you just need to finish it off?

Hi

I've bought myself a used Biqu B1 with a BLTouch for a fair price. The seller said that he never got the BLTouch working. Now I`m trying to get the auto leveling to work, but every tutorial and video shows the ABL option in the menu, but i do not have that option. The BLTouch is connected as every video and instruction manual shows, the sensor has flipped down a couple of times so that too is working, and the red led-light i always on. Other menu-guides shown in different internet tutorials also shows minor menu variations from my printer.

Some useful info: System: Marlin 2.1.1 Board: Bigtreetech_TFT35_B1_V3.0 Firmware: TFT35_B1_V3.0.26.x Me: Complete noob with no knowledge of 3D printing lingo

What should be done to get the ABL option in my menu?

Hello all, I am considering on getting a 3D printer. I want to print some stuff for a project. I am relatively new to this. I need the slicer software to be compatible (preferably open source) with linux since that's what I am using. I have only found the stuff from Prusa to be compatible but they are expensive. I have heard of ender 3 but it is the only os printer by creality and saw the repo is 3yo without updates.

Can I get some suggestions?

I am fed up with resin slicers.

Chitubox is about as stable as a drunk on a tightrope, Lychee is bad for engineering models and over-priced if you just want some basic support functions and PrusaSlicer is under-developed. All of these solutions work for different things based on the goals of the user. (For some, Lychee is an excellent value so my distaste is likely not universal.)

What really pissed me off is that support painting shouldn't be a paid feature. You hold the mouse button down and drop a support at specific distance from the last. It doesn't take massive cloud computational clusters or huge storage requirements but yet, money. Fuck. That.

I want a completely FOSS tool that is stable and includes functionality for auto-positioning models and has a full set of knobs and levers for support generation, support painting included.

So, I spent the morning getting a dev environment setup for PrusaSlicer to use as a base for resin-only tools. Over the next month or so, I'll take some time to strip out all the FDM support and get the slicer into a bare-bones state with only the existing resin features. Of course, it'll be on GitHub.

Back to the main subject. I was hoping that y'all had references in regards to anything resin printing: Support placement methods, model rotation optimization, resin strength data, FEP peel force data or anything that could be coded and implemented into a slicer. Hell, even discovering different methods for hollowing an STL would be nice.

Data and strategies for various tools would be nice to have at this point to at least start forming a roadmap for development. (One of the first goals is to integrate UVTools as a snap-in, somehow.)

FDM tools are plentiful because of wide spread adoption. Resin printers still seem niche so printer manufacturers naturally gravitate to writing their own tools for their own hardware in their race to the bottom.

With all of that said, I am actually curious if others would even want to see a project like this kicked off.

Find the design on Printables: Wedge Laptop-stand by impulse1delta

Pardon the stupid question, but I have 3m command hooks. I need to create the opposite. I have a tiny dry erase board I want to hold up with said hooks and have it be removable. I need to create holes/holder/mounting points to adhere to the dry erase board. What are those called?

I tried searching "command hooks" but it gives me the hooks themselves. How do I search for the opposite? What are they even called?

I have never used a 3d printer. But have done a little research.

Be great if someone could confirm my intention is sane.

I have loads of Linux experience so my plans relate to open source all the way.

First off I am brassic(poor). So looking cheap all the way. My brother and I have a tiny narrowboat we are refitting. And plan to use the printer for stuff within the boat.

Due to this printing PA6 to go in the bilge is important. (Diesel and water bad for most other plastics)

As we are both vision impaired and old. The idea is most of the electrical mountings etc will be self designed and painted to make future access quick and easy with our rapidly worsening vision.

So my plan. I am looking at a elegoo Neptune 4 pro.

Because it is cheap but great value. Uses kipper. And seems easy to modify as I grow in use. Also supports temps needed for PA6 etc.

But I will need an enclosure to work with PA 6 and a dryer.

Dryer is cheap not an issue.

But I'm thinking of a tent enclosure. Some good well insulated ones on amazon for £50 with hose to vent out smells.

Will one of these tents be suitable for keeping temperature stable while printing PA6. And can anyone offer other advice for cheap solutions to make this easy.

On a related novice front.

Gue to the vision. One of the projects is to print mounting boards for din rail fuses etc. The idea being to mix colours.

Ie flat surface faces from and back in white. The the inner support fram in a bright colour. This will mean holes to support thumb screws etc for easy low vision future maintainance. IE easy to find the pre set screw holes.

This plan means I can swap colours when printing layers so should be easy without over (for me) briced multi head printer.

But can anyone share experience with doing this with nylon. IE how dose delays in printing the layers while swapping filament t effect the linking of those layers.

As I say complete novice o the actual doing this so any advice will be helpful.

I’m looking for some advice on how to bond a post-processed resin printed piece to a large PLA print. I assume my options are either superglue or maybe brushing resin onto the PLA, attaching the resin print, and hitting it with a UV light?

Is there a better way? Thanks!

Very nice practical example of printed test jigs for PCB assembly testing. Newpipe is down ATM, so if you're looking for something to watch, this might burn 32 minutes. I found it mildly inspirational to get making/designing some stuff again.