Print failed because the layer adhesion is shit on my printer.
Upgrade to PEI my friend. Best $25 i spent on this thing.
this post was submitted on 16 Apr 2024
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Or ascend to G10
Thanks, I was considering what to make for dinner, and spaghetti it shall be!
Completely off topic: I now dry all of my filament for about 10 hours in a cheap food dehydrator before I print. Print quality is 1000x better.
I don't know what it is with ender build plates but they only seem to last about 30-ish prints on the PEI side for me, switched to the glass side and glue stick with moderately better results
Thanks, I'll try this setup with a brim or a skirt.
~~Scraped a 600g print for the second time (today):~~
first failure: bed adhesion/warping
second failure: Prusaslicer overlapped support and the part. At least my hotend survived that failure.
Called it a day and moved on to a different printer for this print. Also, did I mention that I managed to kill another z-endstop on that printer today? Forgot to remove a finished print before running G28.
How does that kill the endstop?
The end stop is located on the carriage (toolmount/receiver). Moved sideways into the print and the bed adhesion was stronger than the pin of the switch.
If printing PLA, put a brine (salt solution) on your bed. PLA bonds with salt when warmed up (heated bed) and loses its bond when cooled off.
Is this legit? Or are you making a spaghetti joke? I actually can't tell lol
Here's a scientific paper about it. :) https://medialibrary.uantwerpen.be/oldcontent/container11343/files/bonding_pla_with_salt_water_v20160713.pdf
A brine is a much cleaner solution than the usual advices of hairspray or tape. Just be careful not to put salt on your electronics.
Thanks!
What did you do to that poor build plate?!?
A lot of printing. It's basically impossible to clean it well.
Are you removing your prints when the build plate is still hot? If so, and your plate is PEI, it'll get destroyed
It looks like a glass carborundum Creality plate. I have one of them, they work really well until one day they just don't.
I second that. Mine worked for quite a bit of time until it stopped working properly.
Glue stick helps, as does cleaning with ISO between every. single. print. Also praying.
I got an old school build-tak style sticker for one of my glass beds once I finally got sick of it. Ender 3 style glass beds are just bizarre, ornery little things.
Buildtak is fantastic, I've swapped over to all buildtak on my voron and for abs on my prusa, A little bit of 99ipa between prints and you're good, never had to worry about adhesion. I had a glass bed on a Mendel Max 2 literally a decade ago that I ended up selling about a year later when I moved cross country, ignoring bed leveeling and z axis issues I had, adhesion was always a mess, ended up doing the coat in polyimide tape and gluestick thing with success but it was always a bit how you doing. It's great how far things have come.
With that one (creality textured glass carborundum something or other) I kept hitting it with 95%+ IPA, it just gives out eventually. I switched to a textured spring steel plate recently, world of difference for petg, PLA, and tpu. It's just another consumable :/
If you're not ready to switch yet a layer of masking tape can get you by for awhile, it's just a pain because the masking tape will need to be replaced about every other print depending on your settings.
Uh Oh Spaghettio!
Yeah I think you need a new build surface, friend.
How expensive are they?
As cheap as $2 from Ikea for a mirror or roughly $15 for a PEI sheet. Print surfaces are consumables like nozzles or filament.
This print bed has seen better days but doesn't need to be replaced right now.
Btw. Using PETG on glass or Creality glass surfaces is a great way to destroy them in a timely manner.
This is very informative thanks. I've printed a lot of PLA on my Creality glass plate with no issues, but I recently started with PETG and it's insane how much harder it sticks.
I learned through trial and error to only remove it while the bed is still hot, but even then it really sticks too well.
How do you even level an Ender? I have an elegoo neptune printer so the leveling is different. I was trying to print with an Ender and couldn't find a good guide. All of them told me to twist the screw things at the bottom but the gap is way too large for it to be fixed that way.
Time to move the Z stop then. It's a limit switch bolted to the left upright extrusion.
I’m late to the party but I use a WhamBam build surface on my Ender 3 V2. Absolutely a game changer. Wipe it down with high-percent isopropanol or acetone between prints and it works every time. Sticks like glue when hot and just pops off with zero effort once it cools down.
Not affiliated, just love the thing. https://www.whambamsystems.com/products/235-x-235-kit-with-pre-installed-pex-build-surface
Sad storry dude. Do I see a skirt of that model and some brim leftovers on the build plate? Is that PLA? Are you using glue?
No, I didn't use a skirt or brim. Good idea, I'll use it next time. I'm using PETG as my filament and no, I'm not using glue.
I have a 3rd party version of the Ender3; I just use glue stick on the surface to make it tacky and it comes off just fine with the scraper.
In your ender!
Ender 3 ?
Ender 3 Neo
I'd say a Neo based on how the fan shroud looks
What are your first layer settings? Temp? Speed? Line width? Etc etc.
Glue stuck my friend. All the way home.
Stick*