submitted 1 month ago by [email protected] to c/3dprinting

Print failed because the layer adhesion is shit on my printer.

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[-] [email protected] 8 points 1 month ago

Upgrade to PEI my friend. Best $25 i spent on this thing.

[-] [email protected] 1 points 1 week ago

Or ascend to G10

[-] Carighan 7 points 1 month ago

Thanks, I was considering what to make for dinner, and spaghetti it shall be!

[-] [email protected] 5 points 1 month ago

Completely off topic: I now dry all of my filament for about 10 hours in a cheap food dehydrator before I print. Print quality is 1000x better.

[-] [email protected] 5 points 1 month ago

I don't know what it is with ender build plates but they only seem to last about 30-ish prints on the PEI side for me, switched to the glass side and glue stick with moderately better results

[-] [email protected] 1 points 1 month ago

Thanks, I'll try this setup with a brim or a skirt.

[-] [email protected] 4 points 1 month ago

~~Scraped a 600g print for the second time (today):~~

first failure: bed adhesion/warping

second failure: Prusaslicer overlapped support and the part. At least my hotend survived that failure.

Called it a day and moved on to a different printer for this print. Also, did I mention that I managed to kill another z-endstop on that printer today? Forgot to remove a finished print before running G28.

[-] atocci 4 points 1 month ago

How does that kill the endstop?

[-] [email protected] 3 points 1 month ago

The end stop is located on the carriage (toolmount/receiver). Moved sideways into the print and the bed adhesion was stronger than the pin of the switch.

[-] Dumnorix 4 points 1 month ago

If printing PLA, put a brine (salt solution) on your bed. PLA bonds with salt when warmed up (heated bed) and loses its bond when cooled off.

[-] [email protected] 4 points 1 month ago

Is this legit? Or are you making a spaghetti joke? I actually can't tell lol

[-] Dumnorix 3 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago)

Here's a scientific paper about it. :) https://medialibrary.uantwerpen.be/oldcontent/container11343/files/bonding_pla_with_salt_water_v20160713.pdf

A brine is a much cleaner solution than the usual advices of hairspray or tape. Just be careful not to put salt on your electronics.

[-] [email protected] 2 points 1 month ago
[-] [email protected] 3 points 1 month ago

What did you do to that poor build plate?!?

[-] [email protected] 2 points 1 month ago

A lot of printing. It's basically impossible to clean it well.

[-] [email protected] 2 points 1 month ago

Are you removing your prints when the build plate is still hot? If so, and your plate is PEI, it'll get destroyed

[-] [email protected] 2 points 1 month ago

It looks like a glass carborundum Creality plate. I have one of them, they work really well until one day they just don't.

[-] [email protected] 3 points 1 month ago

I second that. Mine worked for quite a bit of time until it stopped working properly.

[-] wjrii 1 points 1 month ago

Glue stick helps, as does cleaning with ISO between every. single. print. Also praying.

I got an old school build-tak style sticker for one of my glass beds once I finally got sick of it. Ender 3 style glass beds are just bizarre, ornery little things.

[-] [email protected] 2 points 1 month ago

Buildtak is fantastic, I've swapped over to all buildtak on my voron and for abs on my prusa, A little bit of 99ipa between prints and you're good, never had to worry about adhesion. I had a glass bed on a Mendel Max 2 literally a decade ago that I ended up selling about a year later when I moved cross country, ignoring bed leveeling and z axis issues I had, adhesion was always a mess, ended up doing the coat in polyimide tape and gluestick thing with success but it was always a bit how you doing. It's great how far things have come.

[-] [email protected] 1 points 1 month ago

With that one (creality textured glass carborundum something or other) I kept hitting it with 95%+ IPA, it just gives out eventually. I switched to a textured spring steel plate recently, world of difference for petg, PLA, and tpu. It's just another consumable :/

If you're not ready to switch yet a layer of masking tape can get you by for awhile, it's just a pain because the masking tape will need to be replaced about every other print depending on your settings.

[-] [email protected] 3 points 1 month ago

Uh Oh Spaghettio!

[-] atocci 2 points 1 month ago

Yeah I think you need a new build surface, friend.

[-] [email protected] 1 points 1 month ago
[-] [email protected] 3 points 1 month ago

As cheap as $2 from Ikea for a mirror or roughly $15 for a PEI sheet. Print surfaces are consumables like nozzles or filament.

This print bed has seen better days but doesn't need to be replaced right now.

Btw. Using PETG on glass or Creality glass surfaces is a great way to destroy them in a timely manner.

[-] [email protected] 1 points 1 month ago

This is very informative thanks. I've printed a lot of PLA on my Creality glass plate with no issues, but I recently started with PETG and it's insane how much harder it sticks.

I learned through trial and error to only remove it while the bed is still hot, but even then it really sticks too well.

[-] atocci 1 points 1 month ago
[-] [email protected] 2 points 1 month ago

How do you even level an Ender? I have an elegoo neptune printer so the leveling is different. I was trying to print with an Ender and couldn't find a good guide. All of them told me to twist the screw things at the bottom but the gap is way too large for it to be fixed that way.

[-] wjrii 2 points 1 month ago

Time to move the Z stop then. It's a limit switch bolted to the left upright extrusion.

[-] RunningInRVA 1 points 1 month ago

Glue stuck my friend. All the way home.

[-] NosferatuZodd 2 points 1 month ago
[-] [email protected] 1 points 1 month ago

I’m late to the party but I use a WhamBam build surface on my Ender 3 V2. Absolutely a game changer. Wipe it down with high-percent isopropanol or acetone between prints and it works every time. Sticks like glue when hot and just pops off with zero effort once it cools down.

Not affiliated, just love the thing. https://www.whambamsystems.com/products/235-x-235-kit-with-pre-installed-pex-build-surface

[-] [email protected] 1 points 1 month ago

Sad storry dude. Do I see a skirt of that model and some brim leftovers on the build plate? Is that PLA? Are you using glue?

[-] [email protected] 1 points 1 month ago

No, I didn't use a skirt or brim. Good idea, I'll use it next time. I'm using PETG as my filament and no, I'm not using glue.

[-] [email protected] 1 points 1 week ago

I have a 3rd party version of the Ender3; I just use glue stick on the surface to make it tacky and it comes off just fine with the scraper.

[-] [email protected] 1 points 1 month ago

In your ender!

[-] topinambour_rex 1 points 1 month ago
[-] [email protected] 2 points 1 month ago

Ender 3 Neo

[-] KremlinJanitor 1 points 1 month ago

I'd say a Neo based on how the fan shroud looks

[-] [email protected] 1 points 1 month ago

What are your first layer settings? Temp? Speed? Line width? Etc etc.

this post was submitted on 16 Apr 2024
65 points (92.2% liked)


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