3DPrinting

I have a Sapphire Plus printer which I have heavily modified (out of the box it is a piece of junk). After finally changing the mainboard and installing Klipper I got it to print reliably. Of course the next thing I wanted to do was print fast. It quickly became apparent that the E3D V6 hotend and the anemic 3010 fans severely limited said goal. So I got myself a Dragon HF hotend, a 5020 blower and printed this print head. From the get go I had massive problems with retraction, even after calibrating pressure advance the retraction towers I tried in Orca Slicer where all stringy messes. I kinda got it under control by severely slowing the retraction speed to 25mm/s with a 0.4mm retraction distance with nozzle wipe.
But now I'm sometimes getting these weird stringing artifacts on prints. Not on every print and not on every part, it's just certain seams that get them. I'm currently printing with a 0.6mm CHT nozzle and a fresh roll of Elegoo PLA. Does anyone have any idea what could be the culprit? It ruined the finish on a few otherwise perfect prints.
I even tried out this print: since it has a lot of retractions, but of course that one turned out perfectly apart from a few tiny whisps.

I ran into this on one of the models for the Voron's Clockwork 2 (specifically, this one ).

The sliced preview shows the error, which printed... very dutifully as instructed. .

The print was easy enough to clean up, but now I have one of my own designs and the same thing is happening :(

Any ideas to fix it? My model was straight from Fusion 360 and appears manifold. I'm pretty sure the Voron components are also modeled in Fusion 360.

Edit / small update: it looks like the error is specific to SuperSlicer. I tried the same model in PrusaSlicer and didn't have any issues.

Hello fellow withprinters. Whats happening here? Stringing is not the problem, if i print string tests, they are good. Its only in holes, the walls wont stick. Any suggestions for a fix?

Edit: Found the problem. The temperature sensor was faulty. Changed it and now everything is fine.

These fins are supposed to stop at the rim, but one side just keeps going. Is this an error in the source file, or did I do something wrong?

I'm looking to upgrade my Ender 3 Max Neo.

It has Marlin 2.0.8.3-HW-V4.2.2-SW-V1.4.7G firmware which I am unable to flash over to other versions of Marlin for some reason, it just crashes.

My board is a 4.2.2. Obviously as indicated by the note above.

I don't mind changing the board out but I'm having a hard time finding any information on the 3 Max Neo and would rather not buy parts just to end up finding out that it's not going to work.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I have a Nevermore filter with 24v fans, would it be fine to connect them to the parts that I have circled on my Prusa MK4?

Or is that dangerous?

In this episode, the hosts start with a PSA about backing up data and Stefan's SSD failing. Later, Tom shares his plans for SMRRF and Stefan reveals his intention to be present at both Formnext and SMMRF in 2023. The conversation then shifts towards 3D-printed salmon meat, the Hangprinter project's challenge to the ORNL SkyBAAM patent, and Bambu's new A1 Mini, which might impact the 3D printing industry. They discuss a proposed bill in NY that would require background checks for 3D printer owners due to the perceived risk of creating firearms and the concerning case of 3D Print Generals channel being deleted without notice. Lastly, they talk about the disappearance of Naomi-Wu from social media after getting into trouble with Chinese authorities.

Just printed this plant pot and the quality is absolutely trash. It's a large print (150mmx150mmx150mm) but printed using my normal settings. It's solid wall - 4-5 perimeters thick. Sliced in Prusaslicer 2.6.1 and printed on an Ankermake M5. Any ideas?

Thanks!

Not a scientific test and not from every angle but interesting still.

Had this thing printed months ago, but I procrastinated and finally got it put together. Just needs paint now.

Model: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-mandalorian-helmet-v2-106137

Hi everyone, I figured I have struggled with this enough over the past day and its time to consult the community. I've been running this same setup for about a month now with the only major change in that time being implementing the input shaping. Recently (last week) I have been unable to complete any prints because every time, I get the error: Move exceeds maximum extrusion ((in the case) 10.681mm^2 vs 0.640 mm^2).

My research says that it is likely due to a mix up between relative and absolute extrusion mode, however I did not change any of those settings in the past month prior to the start of this issue.

Troubleshooting conducted so far: 1) uncheck relative extrusion distances in printer settings>general RESULT -> same error. 2) re-enable relative extrusion in the slicer and explicitly add an M83 command to START_PRINT macro RESULT -> same error. 3) disable the check altogether and observe the print by adding MAX_EXTRUDE_CROSS_SECTION of 50 into printer.cfg RESULT -> no error, but it is massively overextruding blobs in that spot as expected given the error. Had to cancel print anyways it was so bad.

Edit: T.S. continued: 4) setting pressure advance to 0. RESULT -> same error.

Here is my START_PRINT macro before I started messing with it troubleshooting.

Pressure advance is 0.0425.

I'm not sure if there is more information I would need to share that may help find the cause like perhaps export the profile from the slicer as well?

I'm on PrusaSlicer 2.6.1 appimage on pop_OS using the Ellis 3d Sovol SV06 SuperSlicer profile adapted to PrusaSlicer with some tweaks as I go.

Printer is an SV06 running Klipper on a Raspberry Pi 4 with MainsailOS.

Holy crap, that's a lot of work to get a roll of filament. That's only economical if your time is worth nothing. Ugh.

Looking to maybe upgrade my kid's creality cr6-se, so we can move into the more exotic materials.

It appears that I have two options for an all metal hotend, but I can't find any comparisons. Not besides a reddit post from 2020 stating that the Prima Creator is a knock off.

So have anybody tried one or both and care to speak about the experience?

https://i.imgur.com/yzJg1ne.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/IgVP7Fj.jpg

Any ideas on this new issue only affecting one of my printers, only seems to be on the bottom layers of a base mode print. The layers that are not done as one continuous spiral. Photos are before and after, ignore the banding on the before! (Thats another issue I have fixed)

Can’t figure this one out, driving me mad as I have orders to fulfil

Solved:

So a combination of three changes finally got me back the correct result.

1. Changed the nozzle for a brand new one, that helped a lot but still had a fee issues.
2. Remeasured my extrusion amount and recalibrated the e-steps, they had gone quite a way out.
3. Reduced the temp by 10°C apart from the first layer.

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/home/polipo-jewelry-holder

Blue green dual silk PLA filament from RBD on sovol sv06 plus.

Still having seam issues. Https://files.catbox.moe/pavpr0.jpg

Where do folks prefer to host their 3d models and designs? Do you use one site, or multiple?

I originally started on Thingiverse, but switched to Printables after it launched and that has been my main location for uploading to. I recently decided to copy all my models to Thingiverse and Thangs, in additional to Printables, but I'm not sure its worth the effort to maintain the listings on multiple sites.

I love the Printables site, I think it has the best user experience, but Thingiverse seems to reach a bigger audience. Thangs I find useful for the search, but I'm not sure its worth hosting models there as well.

I am happy with the result. There is a black line accross the badge due to the head going through it, but I removed it by sanding it. Maybe I should play with the z-hop setting.

Here is a Thingiverse link

They are easy to print and can be shaped after for a realistic look. I used a .2 nozzle and dipped the legs in boiling water to bend them to shape.

Hi all! I was curious to see if anyone had any recommendations for an enclosure for the Ender V3 Neo. I found a few on Amazon, but they look like grow tents and wasn’t sure if that would work well. For a bit of context, it seems like an enclosure is a must have for ABS printing which is ultimately what I’m after.

Thanks everyone!

Source https://twitter.com/hueforge/status/1714696095538802992

Want to explain HueForge to people who don't like pizza? Looking for a more subtle example with just 4 colors? I've got you covered. Notice how much more depth the second, brighter white, creates in the top left.

In short, Hueforge is software that plans filament swaps and thin layers such that they blend. This is a black layer, by a thin red, then thin white, then thin brighter white.

This is the only place in the whole print where this happens.

I just want to brag a bit. Printed on an Anycubic Kobra 2. Runs without much problems. At the moment 10 Days on a single winding, tweakble up to 32 days. The weight is from another wooden self build clock.

Edit: cant i upload videos?

Edit 2: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-32-day-clock-easy-build-156759 (12$)

Edit 3: I just printed this clock, i didnt plan it myself if this is unclear...