BigDanishGuy

joined 1 year ago
[–] [email protected] 13 points 3 days ago (2 children)

A house? In the middle of the street? Such madness, it's one step beyond...

[–] [email protected] 1 points 3 days ago

That horn would make for a great M2 mount. I mean a glocktopus would cause great chaos, but a 2.5ton beast with 5cm thick skin coming at you at 50km/h is already scary before adding a ma deuce and 200 rounds of belt fed 50cal.

[–] [email protected] 6 points 3 days ago* (last edited 3 days ago)

The glocktopus is chambered for 8x9x19mm

[–] [email protected] 12 points 3 days ago

Usually AI, is better at, punctuation

[–] [email protected] 7 points 3 days ago

Yes, å møøse bit my sister in the ærm

[–] [email protected] 3 points 4 days ago

So? Just ground it ... and hope nobody steals the wire

[–] [email protected] 8 points 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago)

Great! You only need 12 to get your daily vitamin c

Edit: damn I just saw the serving size, 32 fl.oz? I seem to remember that there's 16 Oz to a pound, so I get 32 is about 0.9L? And you need to drink 12 each day? GTFO I might as well just keep eating fruits and vegetables

[–] [email protected] 3 points 1 week ago (10 children)

GTFO with that bullshit! An innocent bystander got killed, show some respect. The projectile was capture on video, do you really think that Trump would let anybody shoot live ammo at him? Puleeese!

[–] [email protected] 6 points 1 week ago (2 children)

I don't know 'bout y'all, but I get them woody fibers between my teeth.

[–] [email protected] 19 points 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago) (6 children)

He was American, they don't require gun proficiency to buy a gun, as a consequence few knows how to actually hit stuff or how to maintain their guns.

Take bump stocks, the rednecks are so obsessed with full auto that they ignore that you don't hit squad with ordinary full auto and then introduce an unstable stock.

I'm not a good shot, but 400' is what? 120-130m? Shooting a diemaco c7 prone, even I will hit +9/10 when firing at center mass with iron sights at that distance. How do you miss that shot thrice?

[–] [email protected] 6 points 1 week ago

how were the secret service not on the roofs or monitoring the roofs from aerial POV? Most obvious spot for a sniper.

How do you know they weren't and just missed it?

the dude interviewed by British journalist right after that says him and group saw man with gun climbing roof, told cops and secret service and neither did anything

Did you see the photo of the guy? A neck beard with a MAGA sun visor. If he comes to the police saying he saw a guy with a riffle on the roof, what will the likely conclusion be? that's a secret service agent, that's what it will be.

his first and only focus was his shoes?

Your point being?

a man who is a documented coward and narcissist pushed against secret service to face cameras and have his head exposed for a long period of time?

He's also an idiot, so...

secret service ignores protocol to cover and remove him and let's him vamp and pose

Same as with several of the previous points, incompetence more than accurately explains it.

straight lines of blood on his face, history with pro wrestling

Same as with shoes, what's your point?

yes, the supposed gunman was killed, but on what day are there not thousands of trump cultists lined up and ready to die if someone tells them they are on a secret mission to help daddy?

The wannabe assassin was neutralized. It's way easier to stop someone by shooting them than by means of persuasion. If you want to go down the conspiracy rabbit hole, then gunmen are always killed, dead men don't answer questions.

yes, some in crowd may have been injured, but when has trump shown any hesitation to have pale injured or killed for his personal benefit (January 6th, church protests, etc).

Real people were actually killed here. Innocent bystanders. I think these people deserve that we be critical with our conspiracy theories. Trump would definitely not be above hurting his supporters if it would give him an advantage. He's already hurting supporters financially.

his secret service were proven corrupt and involved in cover up measures for trump before (e.g. Deliberately erasing text messages relevant to January 6th)

Corrupt? Sure, but corrupt in what way? Some may just have been trying to cover their own asses.

this all happens as project 2025 narrative was taking form hold, leaked video/audio by the day and days before the RNC.

Part of me wants to follow you, part of me wants to say "Trump had some weirdo shoot at the audience while he cut his ear up. All to get rid of the project 2025 story". I mean we've seen how Trump have diverted attention previously by doing crazy shit. But I'd caution linking the two things. The project 2025 can definitely be buried in the wake of this incident by the RNC, and the RNC most definitely will try to kill the story. But jumping from the RNC being opportunistic, to there being a conspiracy to make people forget 2025? That's not just a small step, nor a giant leap, that's a "flying a jetpack until it runs dry" kinda jump.

[–] [email protected] 12 points 1 week ago

OK ... so a 20 yo with some sort of issue didn't know who he was at age 17?

I bet we'll see this blown out of proportion in the next days.

TBH I can't remember if I thought I was a conservative, social liberal, or communist at that age.

 

I'm looking for a source of product status ect. Specifically AAE products at the moment, but preferably more universal than that. Does anyone know of a blog or other source, that congregates this info?

Background (rant) for asking:

At present I'm looking for vanes for my target recurve kid. Got told by the gurus at the range/club, that flex fletch ffp 187 was a good choice, so I ordered ffp 187 no-prep. Just to get an email back from the local shop, that ffp 187 no-prep was discontinued. And they suggested AAE wav, gas pro naca 200 performance (or spin wings, but the coaches don't want us to go for spin wings at the present)

OK, fine, I can see that JVD (my local shop's wholesaler) only carries one color of ffp 187 no-prep now. But then another kid at the club was shooting AAE hybrid shield 185, and all of a sudden those are being discontinued as well. So I've tried ordering AAE wav ... to the be told by the same gurus what wav was probably also discontinued. But I can't find any announcements, just dwindling stock at the wholesaler level.

I don't know much about archery, but I know that I don't want to fletch a dozen shafts, just to then learn that once the clicker-side vanes are used up, then we're SOL.

 

As the title states really. I need to refer to this diverse group of people, who somehow have gotten put in the same box labeled "sexual minorites".

I'm a boring CISHET vanilla white male, so I don't really know. I want to include as many as I can when I refer to "lgbtq+ people". I've been studying various flags, trying to find the one flag I need. But I can't really figure it out.

Is lgbtq+ the preferred term, or what should I use? Is a flag better? I don't want to hurt someone by not including them.

 

If money wasn't an issue, what ILF riser would you get for olympic recurve?

This is both meant as a thought experiment, but also as me picking your brains as a starting point for picking a new riser for someone.

Personally I like the Wiawis integrated dampeners of the ATF-DX or Meta DX. And the insert in the ATF-DX fitting, so you don't ruin the entire riser if you're stringing it wrong, does have some appeal.

But what do you think? Any Gillo fans here? Anyone want to try convincing the rest of us that formula is a superior fitting, and that we should tie the knot with Hoyt?

 

I apologize for the links below being vendor specific, but the linked products are the specific products I have used. I have no affiliation with the shop other than they offer to bill my job instead of having me pay upfront and then get the expenses redeemed. (I have tried making this both subscript and super script with respectively ^ and ~, but none works on lemmy)

I seek advice on proceeding with the setup and acquiring an acceptable printing quality.

Background

I have recently "upgraded" a creality cr6 se at work. I installed a spider steel/PEI plate (https://3deksperten.dk/products/spiderflexiplate-double-system-255x245-ex-cr-6-se), a bimetal heatbreak https://3deksperten.dk/products/3dsupreme-titanium-alloy-bi-metal-heatbreak-cr6-se) and a hardened steel nozzle (0.4mm from this kit https://3deksperten.dk/products/creality-3d-3d-printing-up-market-nozzle-kit-8-pcs)

Findings

Testing this new setup I used the PLA spool I had been printing with days before without issue. The new and old nozzles are all 0.4mm.

What I discovered was that I couldn't get any adhesion to the built plate, some spray glue (this exact make and model https://3deksperten.dk/products/printafix-100ml) fixed that. Then layer adhesion was an issue. So I upped the temp to the max for this PLA and increased the extrusion rate. First 10 layers or so were somewhat ok, but the rest delaminated instantly.

I then opened a brand new spool of PLA, thinking that the old spool had moisture issues. Cranked the temp to max, 210°C, added 5°C to the bed and applied a strong shot of spray glue. This time the print actually got done, but the parts where Cura's tree support was supposed to be supporting, the layers seem to come apart. The rest of the print was somewhat ok, though not great.

Current considerations

  • Maybe I attempted too much at the same time. I may try swapping the nozzle back and only deal with the plate and heatbreak.
  • The heat break may be install wrong. The nozzle was screwed in all the way, loosened a few turns, then the heat break was screwed in all the way. The nozzled was then tightened. No heating was done. I may try giving the heat break a few turns before installing the old nozzle again.
  • Should I have heated hotend before tightening the nozzle?
 

Simply put, our slate countertops are uneven, creating issues in daily activities. I've considered using an angle grinder with a grinding disc, but I'm hesitant. Seeking advice on practical solutions for making installed slate slabs even.

The slabs in question varies in thickness by at least ±6mm, in some spots the extremes are within 80mm of each other.

 

Looking to maybe upgrade my kid's creality cr6-se, so we can move into the more exotic materials.

It appears that I have two options for an all metal hotend, but I can't find any comparisons. Not besides a reddit post from 2020 stating that the Prima Creator is a knock off.

So have anybody tried one or both and care to speak about the experience?

29
submitted 9 months ago* (last edited 9 months ago) by [email protected] to c/3dprinting
 

UPDATE:

Never before have I seen an entire maker community go "WTF are you doing you MANIAC! Just frigging buy it instead". I'm impressed :-) Normally I have to solicit such a strong response, this was pure ignorance.

I don't know whether we'll go forward with the 3d-printing part of this project anymore. If we do, I do hear you on the PETG, and it's not out of the running anymore. I may take the project on in a much smaller scale, on my own dime, so I can still try out some exotic materials (ie not pla).

In response to the cost per wand. I've found mailbox red TPU72d from kungfuflex for about 43USD per kg. I made a mock-up of the wand with 2mm walls, and at 220mm length it comes out to about 54g per wand. That's about 2.5USD - if nothing goes wrong and I don't waste a spool by printing unattended.

I think there's still something to be said about being able to form the wand to fit snug on the specific flashlight. Maybe the solution will be purchasing wand attachments and making an adapter for them.

ORIGINAL POST:

I'm designing a wand attachment for a flashlight. The wand attachment will be about 170-200mm long, slightly cone shaped, and fit securely onto a given flashlight. When attached to the flashlight and the flashlight is turned on, the flashlight will illuminate the wand giving of a red glow.

The purpose of this is to use the wand for directing traffic at night. Don't worry, we're licensed to do so and typically asked by the police to do it.

See the picture for an idea of what I'm trying to explain. Disregard the tape and the fact that it's white PLA. The white PLA is what I had open and the flashlight is not the same as will be used with the final device.

The attachment will be produced in 70-150 copies and handed out to volunteers of my national guard company. The final attachment must therefore be able to take a beating, ie scratches, impacts, temperatures and various rough handling.

I have at my disposal a pool of +10 Cr6-se, one ultimaker s5 and one stratasys uprint se plus.

I'm considering a couple of material choices. TPU or PETG in a couple of the cr6s or PC in ultimaker. The uprint strictly uses some proprietary ABS spools, and all the filament I've got for that is ivory white. A buddy of mine has offered to print a release candidate in flexible tough resin. But I don't think that he has any idea about the scale of the project. So it really narrows down to TPU, PETG or PC. If I'm going to make this rigid I'm going to go for PC, for durability, or TPU for flexibility and durability.

I've found a source for PC in transparent and white and TPU (72d, 95a and 98a) in transparent, red or white.

I like the TPU72d in red, but is it the right material? I can't find anything on the translucency of opaque TPU. In the picture it's just 1 mm of opaque white PLA, but what about 2 or 3 mm of TPU? Should I just drop the illusions of red opaque TPU and print in clear PC and spray a coat of red paint on the inside? Or clear TPU?

WYD?

 

We had a bit of rain these few days. 110ish mm over the last 14 days, 25 of which decided to check in on us yesterday. So our run got flooded.

Not having the space for a truck load of woodchips, nor the time to spare, I got a couple of 23kg bales of sawdust. BTW .6USD pr kg for sawdust, what's wrong with the world?

The chickens were quite perplexed as to the bale when it arrived, and definitely not sold on it either when I had spread it out, pic in comments. I'm going to see how it works before spreading another one.

Usually I don't have to pump water from this area before November, but I guess that life ain't fair and the world is mean, so we started the pump this morning. Next 5 months (we'll I guess it'll be 6 months if luck be) we'll be pumping about 26m^3 from this area daily.

There's a Danish children's song that starts with something like "The farmer is always busy on his farm" and then lists the chores. I wonder why I that was stuck in my head as I wandered about the hardware store looking for bedding material.

 

Questions:

  • Can you test 450V high ripple current caps with a any old desktop RCL meter?
  • Has digikey shipped me faulty units?

Background:

I've gotten a couple of 660uF (not a typo, it's some weird high ripple current caps for an outdoor AC unit) 450V caps to replace some that I decided were duds. Normally I only measure components when troubleshooting, but this being 20USD with vat devices I thought "what the heck, I better".

The caps in question are chemi-con EKHJ451VSN661MA59M https://www.digikey.dk/en/products/detail/chemi-con/EKHJ451VSN661MA59M/17728502.

Method:

I'm using a Phillips PM6303A, which is a 1kHz RCL meter. Ambiant temp is approx 15°C. The caps have a 20% tolerance, so capacity should be >528uF, but when measuring both caps settle at approx 450uF after a little while. After 16hours it hasn't deviated for the one cap I've left in over night. The dissipation factor, tan(δ), settled at 0.57, while the datasheet states that it shall be no greater than 0.2.

For comparison, the caps I thought was faulty, have been running for about 20years, with the same specs, but came out to 550uF and 0.3, and as the spec said 0.2 I decided to change them.

 

Solution: @[email protected] has made some really insightful comments below, which are really useful. ~~If you just want the cap you can set the parametric searches for 660uF, or in September 2023 I've found that digikey stock(s/ed) chemi-con EKHJ451VSN661MA59M~~.

Update 2: Turns out that EKHJ451VSN661MA59M is not the ordering code you'll want. That would be EKHJ451LIN661MA59M which returns 0 results when you Google it, or maybe a single result in a few days linking to this thread. So it looks like you'd be better off just getting some 680uF with blade snapins instead and retrofitting the board if possible. Just make sure it can handle the ripple current. Always check ordering codes twice my friends!

Original post

I need help identifying the terminals on some strange caps found in an AC inverter main board. The reason I state the AC part, is that the only other mention I've found of this layout, was a question on digikeys forum regarding an AC inverter https://forum.digikey.com/t/can-t-find-the-right-terminals-for-a-capacitor/19332 The capacitor in question has the same measurements as the one in the link.

In my picture on the right you can see the layout of the terminals, there's room for three caps, but only two was mounted, hence the relatively clean pads. On the left is one of the two caps in question. It says nichicon LQ(K), 85°C. Nichicon has discontinued the LQ-series, and the datasheet doesn't mention a 660µF variant. I don't know what fujitsu did to get caps with capacitance outside the E24 series.

Question: What is the name of this type of terminals? And more importantly: where can you get 680µF 450V caps with them? I haven't found them on neither Farnell or RS-Online.

For the sake of people googling this in the future, the AC in question is a fujitsu AOYS09LDC and the board was marked K05CM-C-A(03).

 

The pic may not be nsfw ... but the words uttered at the time certainly were!

 

I am the lucky owner of a 20m blackberry hedge. Last years yield was about 15kg and thus year looks to be the same.

But here's the thing, 15kg is far too much to make jam of, so last year I experimented with wine. I got this kit https://brew2bottle.co.uk/products/better-brew-hedgerow-wine-kit-23l and just followed the instructions. And it was a great success, everyone who's tasted it have even been to nice to say it was bad or have actually complimented the wine. But I still have half the wine left and now it's time for 2023s harvest.

I'm still considering wine, jam and some juice but... What would you do with a lot of blackberries?

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