3DPrinting

So back in the early days of 3d printing (2012) had purchased a Solidoodle 3. Iused it for a few years. It sat unused due to issues had run into with it and eventually got rid of it. Since then I haven't had a printer, but I've finally convinced myself that it is time to get one again. So l'm looking for suggestions for sub-$500 printers. While wouldn't consider myself a newb, I am very rusty. I'm however not opposed to tinkering and am a huge fan of open source. What printers would people recommend? I'm personally thinking the Sovol SVO6+ but am open to other suggestions.

I have never 3d printed anything before. These days I'm working on a small home automation project, and I will require some enclosures. So I thought why not buy a 3d printer ? That way I can also learn about 3d printing when I get some time.

Also please suggest an affordable 3d printer.

https://files.catbox.moe/huf6fo.mp4

https://www.tiktok.com/@mbrandrofficial/video/7296884877276794145

stl https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6296816

I was doing some bike maintenance today and wanted to disassemble my rear hub. It turned out that I needed a 12mm Allen bit for that, which I don't have. So I 3D printed one! And it worked! Torques safely to 5Nm and I only needed 4Nm for the job. Haven't tested higher torques.

Printing here with eSun PLA at 215 C on a Prusa Mini, and there are lots of hairline strings.

What's causing those strings? Temp too low?

They offer a discount $150 for 3 years the $680 full price. 😞 it was bound to happen.

I purchased an Ender 3S1 about two weeks ago now, and it seems like I'm having to level the bed after almost every single print.

The prints themselves are turning out fine, I just don't know how to get my bed to stay level.

I purchased these as I thought they were supposed to help keep the bed in place

Hey folks, just been chatting with urology nurses at work and wondering if anyone has or knows of medical models that could be 3D printed? Specifically something staff can practice putting a catheter in. I'm hoping there is something about so I don't have to sculpt a whole model

Does anyone here have experience with this? I'm on the verge of buying the Artme3D extruder kit as it seems to be complete with extruder and spooler. Alternatives like FelFil Evo will sell you the spooler for the same price as the extruder which in my opinion is a scam for something that isn't that complicated.

The next challenge is filament degradation. Ideally you add some virgin plastic pellets to recycled plastic chunks so that there is enough plasticizer still left in there. Could you just add the plasticizer yourself? It commonly is glycerol or PEG which are pretty common and easily attainable chemicals. Does anyone here have experience with mixing additives yourself?

Designed by myself.

I have no idea what I would do with this but I want one so bad.

Recently I haven't been overly happy with the extrusion consistency of my Orbiter v1. After watching a particularly enlightening video by MirageC I decided to look into updating to an extruder using an IGDA (Integrated Drive Gear Assembly) which potentially reduces the problem that Mirage noticed of non-concentricity caused by gears attached to shafts using set screws. This led me to randomly browsing ali express for ideas and I came across a semi clone of the Bondtech LGX lite called the HGX-Lite. It's not an exact copy and uses a thumb screw to tension the gears instead of Bondtech's lever system. This seems like a more robust design in my opinion, although I haven't used the LGX. It seems to go by various brands. I bought a "Haldis".

I printed Mihai's extrusion test, and it shows an enormous improvement in consistency over the Orbiter. I've taken a photo with glancing lighting to exaggerate the problem - the orbiter is on the right and HGX on the left. Very happy with the result so far.

Only problem I currently see is the backlash might be worse. I'm not sure how to test this or what effect it might have on print quality - advice welcome.

Disclaimer: Not saying the orbiter is bad, I loved it and it's quite possible the V2 is better re: consistency than my original version, although it still does use a set screw in the design.

Here's a picture of the extruder (ignore the mess of wires - testing before committing to a rewire)

Every time I use calibrate_probe, I get the message "The SAVE_CONFIG command will update the printer config file with the above and restart the printer."

When I click Save Config, it restarts the firmware, and then I get the warning "Option 'z_offset' in section 'bltouch' must be specified."

If I go check my printer.cfg, the [bltouch] section now has z_offset commented out with the old value and I have to remove the comment and copy in the new value.

Am I missing something? What am I doing wrong?

TLDR = what's a good next step after kid-friendly 3d creation tools?
Solved = Fusion360 is voted as winner, we even got a nice tutorial playlist.

Hi all - I'm still very much a new user. Highly skilled in IT but just getting my feet wet in 3D printing, since a month or so. I love the possibilities! I can physically create anything I can image, it's amazing.

So far, I've used mostly TinkerCad and done lots with it. The learning curve is practically non-existent, and it has sufficient features to do a lot.

But of course it's not perfect. Obvious example: can't do fillets, except in roundabout ways using negative blocks.

I've tried OnShape, OpenScad, Fusion 360, but found them quite a steep hill to climb.

Are these good choices, or is there something in-between that would make it easier for me to advance?

I cant get my Anycubic Kobra 2 with Klipper to print correct. The first mm of each layer are faulty, resulting in a bad tooth in gears.

I tried to slow down the print, tried to minimize/deactivate retraction, fiddled with z offset and first layer height, lowered bed temp, altered the extrusion rate. Nothing works. Everything else seems fine, slim z seam, nice walls, no over/underextrusion.

Anyone got a hint how i could fix that?

Edit: I cancelled that Print, the Problem is only in the first tooth:

the tooth in the marking should look like the ones above it.

Hex key and mini clamp came in handy for battling a lifting edge

I wanted a 1/10 scale prerunner with long travel suspension so I decided to make it myself! Designed in OnShape, printed on an Ender 3. I have a bit more info on my thingiverse page. Any other RC hobbyists on here? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6306854

Hopefully this doesn't violate the no ads rule, as it is my model. But I'm pretty proud of it and wanted to share.

I designed a backyard feeder to look like the restaurant from Bob's Burgers complete with a Burger of the Day special. It's fully 3d printed (other than glue) and designed to be tough (it wasn't until I uploaded the gcode that I realized it's 1.2 kg worth of filament). So far the squirrels and jays are loving it.

https://www.printables.com/model/493447-bobs-birders

Hi all, I have bought a second hand Creality Ender 5 pro. So far so good. I checked the belts, tightened the bolts (where needed) and successfully ran it for a week before deciding "you know what this printer needs? Klipper firmware." So off I went and installed Klipper.

Ran though all the requisite calibrations, so now the extruder extrudes 50 mm (+/- about 0.2mm) when I ask it to, my calibration cubes measure exactly 20 x 20 x 20 mm with less than 0.1mm deviation. PID tuning for hot end and the bed. But the stringing. The stringing!

The filament is 3DJake ecoPLA that I opened two weeks ago.

See picture attached (and apologies for miswriting the ^2, I had misremembered). Temperature, retraction, it doesn't matter. With stock firmware the retraction worked well at around 4.5mm retraction at 40mm/s. I can't get the stringing to stop here at like 80mm/s and 8mm of retraction and I am at my wits end.

I would greatly appreciate any pointers you guys might have for me!

I love watching Marten's designs evolve.

Guys

We have an XYZ DaVinci 1.0 Pro, connected by USB to a Windows 10 PC (latest updates etc.)

The drivers are all correctly installed (both cameras show up in device manager, the printer shows up in device manager as both a printer and a USB-COM3 device).

The printer has Firmware 1.2.3 installed (as recommended by XYZ.... not sure if that's a good thing)

• XYZ Printing does not detect the printer as online;
• Cura does not detect the printer as online;
• Pronterface does not detect the printer as online;
• In a massive turn-up for the books.... Microsoft 3d Builder does see the printer on line and will start a print.

In device manager the com port seems to be set at 9600,8,n,1. Changing this to (say) 115200 breaks printing in 3d Builder. Changing Pronterface to use 9600 baud makes no difference to connecting to the printer.

I have changed the USB lead, tried different ports on the PC yadda yadda yadda but no change at all - only Microsoft 3d Builder will see the printer online and print.

Anyone got any idea at all why everything except Microsoft 3d Builder can't see the printer?

I'm getting increasingly frustrated trying to get my printer calibrated. I've done a bed calibration using screws_tilt_calculate, and that's all nice and good. Got a bed mesh variance of 0.19mm which seems great.

Now for the z-offset, it won't let me get the nozzle low enough. No matter how low I set the Z minimum, it won't let me get closer than about 0.5mm to the bed. I've tried setting the position_min in [stepper_z] anywhere from 0 to -9 and I get the same result every time.

If I raise the bed, the probe adjust its height accordingly, so the result is the same.

What can I do to fix this?

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