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I just assembled my new Anycubic Kobra 2, performed an auto level and tried to print the 30min benchy file they include on the micro SD card that it ships with. No other modifications of adjustments made. It printed in pretty much exactly the 30min the advertised.
It's think it did OK, but with obvious issues. Since I'm new to the hobby I don't know exactly what to expect and how to identify print quality issues.
My benchy looks like this:
Does this hobby ever get easier or is it always like getting kicked in the nuts by Ronaldo?
Filament some how leaked up and burned on. I just don’t have it in me to keep tinkering. I just want to print
I am hoping someone may have the ability to scan the front and top of a utility gas meter that looks like the one above.
I would like the use this scan to model a front cover similar to the one shown in this link below, but suited for this type of meter.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4845512
The purpose of this project is to hold a esp32 board to get consistent meter readings and feed them into home assistant. Here is the project below.
https://github.com/jomjol/AI-on-the-edge-device
Any help would be appreciated.
My K1 Max had a bed leveling error and printed for a while with the nozzle pressed into the bed so filament couldn't come out, causing a bad clog.
I painstakingly stripped the machine down just to get access to the hot end, and the heatsink and heat break are completely fused. (yes I removed grub screw)
The throat seems to be able to spin within the rest of the heat break, I don't think that's normal but I'm used to enders and cr10.
What I've tried:
I reached out to Creality a week ago and they have not replied.
The heat sink is not even available online, so I am dead in the water until they send me a new heatsink.
Does anyone have any other ideas???
UPDATE!!! (for those who have this in the future)
I finally got it! It took multiple cycles of putting it in my toaster oven at 450F for 20 minutes at a time.
I was able to get the nozzle removed after a couple cycles, which gave me hope.
I did two more cycles, trying to pull them apart each time. Finally it barely started to budge with lots of effort. I saw it was out about 0.5mm. I grabbed my torch and blasted that sucker right at the hole where the grub screw comes out from. Kept heating, pulling, heating pulling. Eventually it slid right out!
Here's the crazy part. There was 0 filament residue in there when I got it out. I have no idea what was locking it in place. If it simply burned away there would have been carbon residue at least. Both the heat break and heat sink were clean... It's almost like they JB welded it in place lol
I am so happy I wont be having to wait weeks for Creality to respond, then more weeks for them to ship a new heatsink. Going to use the spare hot-end that came with the printer and get this puppy printing again! Thanks again for the advice @dual_sport_dork
I'm glad that this is an active community, and the advice the other day was really helpful. Once I figured out how to make other shapes to delete/ subtract, merge, I was able to do this easier. I made this draft in Windows 3D builder, it seemed to be pretty easy to manipulate shapes. We'll see how this goes as far as printing and what not.
We'll see how printing goes and if this case actually works.
I have a few MakerBot-brand printers I can use, I'm not sure the models. One of them is slightly larger enclosed in glass, and I'm told it's temperature controlled, the others are smaller, and they are open. I know the only filament I'm allowed to use with these ones is PLA.
So every couple months I clean my resin contaminated alcohol using alum powder (link to a video about the process)
After cleaning it I let it sit in the settling containers until I need to clean my alcohol again. At which point I swap the alcohol that was cleaned into my main wash and cure station tub and then put the dirty alcohol into the other tub I use exclusively for cleaning the alcohol.
Edit: For those curious I can share an image of what the alcohol looks like after it's had 24 hours to settle in the settling containers.
We've been having a good old time with this over on the Pocket Knife community, but I figure there's probably a lot of crossover with this crowd as well.
I'm sure you've seen various clever little one piece utility knife blade holders on Thingiverse and so forth, and while they're quite functional I don't think they're nearly as overwrought or silly enough, nor require quite enough components.
Rather than repeat my entire post from there over here, I'll leave you with these:
Link to .STL Files And Assembly Instructions
There is a surprising amount of free space in this phone, I have other mods in the works. Especially if I can find a replacement battery. It's a surface Duo 2.
Got this email from Autodesk that Fusion is increasing their annual price by a huge amount. I subbed for 1 year a couple years ago for I think $380. Then I was able to get an educational sub after that. Fusion is still the cheapest CAD software out there, not including the free stuff like FreeCAD, but still, this price increase is massive.
It should be noted that it's still free to use for personal use minus the extra features.
It was great fun, I improved my soldering skills and gained my first experience with ESPs. Ask me anything. :D
https://www.printables.com/de/model/667180-motion-detector-led-lamp
Oh, AutoDesk...you have such a way with words. Honestly, I would rather learn to design in OpenSCAD than send AutoDesk a single penny.
To be clear I know it's not well lol. I just wanted the community's thoughts on what I'm doing wrong. I'm using Overture Royal Gold on a modified CR-10v2 with a real V6. Model was sliced in cura with default low quality settings.
The filament I bought a few months ago but just broke it open yesterday. It's making some small popping noises every now and again but the seal didn't appear to be broken. It seems all right otherwise, if a little sticky on the roll. I had to move it out of my filament dryer to keep it from opening the lid because it was binding so much. That's what happened to the last tower, that failed mid print. Looks nice at least.
I hate tripods.
The design is based on a balanced arm lamp I have in my office. This prototype is at a point where I'm going to use it for a while before making adjustments to the model, but it's doing great for a proof of concept.
