How does the blade stay secured? Years of retail has made me respect and fear bare razorblades
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Maybe it’s a feature, it doubles as an improvised shuriken thrower.
The design is an interesting idea, but having suffered a few crappy box cutters I wouldn’t trust a blade with a friction fit.
Maybe it’s a feature, it doubles as an improvised shuriken thrower.
It could only possibly be better if it had tits and were on fire.
Two pins go through the notches in it. It's not going anywhere.
That green one is my initial prototype and I've been pretty much continuously fidgeting with it at my desk since I printed it maybe two weeks ago. I have flipped it open and shut probably a couple of thousand times by now -- no exaggeration -- and the blade hasn't budged.
Is there like a lip or ridge on the top too that prevents the blade from flying backwards while flipping? I see it on the bottom of the blade, but can't tell if the top is also secured that way
It rides in a track that encloses the top and bottom edges by a couple of mm.
The rear has an end stop, also. It can't fly in any direction, and the only way it's going any time soon is out the front if you press down the flexture that has the locking pins on it.
From what it looks like you can slide it in and lock it with these two pins on top. Not sure how safe that is but considering we're talking about a makeshift balisong, safety can't be your main concern
Oh, that's silly as hell, I love it.
Hey, maybe were on the same watchlist!
Holy shit I cannot be the only one to think flipping one with a razorblade is a bad idea. Like, I've cut myself with my balisong and I keep it pretty sharp, I can't imagine how badly I'd cut myself with a balisong that's literally razor sharp.
Just git gud!
Actually, just flipping around with this it's pretty tough to cut yourself. Obviously the safe side won't cut you, but the blade holder makes a signifigant length of the bite side blunt as well. The edge is only exposed for the last inch and some change, and you mess up the blunt heel section will just bonk harmlessly against your finger. You have to be really choked up on the handle for it to get you.
I think this is actually safer than a traditional balisong (being a DIY contraption made out of whatever bullshit we have lying around notwithstanding) which would have the entire length of one side sharpened.
If you’re gonna print a weapon, a balisong is the right choice. You were gonna hurt yourself with it anyway!
Sure, but this is not even remotely my first rodeo with the ol' flippy-spinny-do.
I'm a veritable expert by this point; I ought to put it on my résumé.
"Idontneedanotherhobby. Idontneedanotherhobby."
I'm at least making this razor balisong
14 year old me can confirm. Backseat playing with it on the way to red lobster and when the interior car lights turned on my hands were red lol. I thought it was sweat lol
Can you make a version that works with Stanley 11-041 blades?
I don't see why not, but I'd need one to measure. It could be as simple as making a new business end for the blade holder.
You should throw this up on printables and at least get some free filament out of the design.
If you read their ToC, that entails giving them rights to basically do whatever they want with your creations, including redistributing them without your permission. They also force you to tacitly declare that your models are released under Creative Commons. No thanks.
Plus, various people with pants on their head around the world get really cagey about balisong knives for some reason. Like they think they're super dangerous sentient objects capable of acting on their own above and beyond other types of folding knife. I'd rather not have anyone on there shrieking "think of the children!" at me because I designed a silly knife.
Dig your style man. This is bitchin' ;)
Very cool! Though also seems like it might cause 3d printers to be more heavily regulated in some places. People can be irrationally afraid of things like this.
More so than the 3D printing firearm enthusiasts?
What 3D printer do you have? The print looks good.
I use a pretty much stock Qidi X-Plus.
Looks like a sweet printer. I was thinking of buying a Bambu for the holidays, but this looks like a better deal.
I am given to understand that the Bambu is a significantly more capable printer, but for what I paid for the Qidi a couple of years ago I have been very pleased with it just far. If the spectrum goes from 0 to 10, where 0 is receiving an unsorted box of exploded parts and wires, and 10 is a sealed black box built by magic pixies from space, the X-Plus is a solid 7. I didn't really have to do anything to it to get it working well or keep it going, although I did make some minor quality of life mods and I shoved a Raspberry Pi and one of its little camera modules into it so I can remote view what's going on in there and hit the kill switch over the wire if necessary.
If you're into the Bambu's main party trick, Qidi actually do make a model or two with dual extruders so you can do multi-color or multi-material prints. But mine isn't one of those. The Bambu machines (except maybe their little A1 Mini) are probably all noticeably faster than the Qidi as well. But the Qidi costs, like, a quarter as much as an X1 carbon, and half as much as a P1P.
Interesting. I saw the Qidi X-Plus 3 advertises 600mm/s vs Bambu P1S 500mm/s. And the P1S doesn't offer a heated chamber. Have you noticed a difference in quality from the heated chamber?
I haven't yet been convinced of the bambu cool-aid mainly because of closed software. Klipper support is a big value prop. Who knows how long bambu will support OS versions and what happens if they start charging for cloud. It's a young company, so not a lot of confidence yet.
The chamber is not heated per se, but if you cap it off with the included lid the bed heater can raise the internal temperature quite a bit. There is no PID for the chamber temp, though. It just winds up being whatever it is due to the waste heat feom the bed and extruder. You can't actually control it.
That said, I have printed ABS with it no problem. I have a roll of PA-CF, but haven't unwrapped it yet because I'm still chicken.
I'm replying aside my original reply because I missed a detail here. My printer is the OG X-Plus, and does not share the same feature set as their current generation 3 models. My PLA print speed is 60-100 mm/sec depending on my needs and it's not capable of going much faster than that. The OG X-Plus is a traditional gantry printer and is not a CoreXY setup like their newer machines. It also does not run Klipper, but that has not been an issue for me yet. (And you can manually control the machine via serial, with the pins hidden in the mainboard under the bottom deck plate. You can run it with OctoPrint or Kipper on an external Pi or other microcontroller board. I have a Pi hooked up to mine but I only use Octoprint for monitoring since the Qidi fork of Cura slicer can remote start/stop the printer natively as well as upload Gcode to it.)
The new models appear to be a little more comparable to the Bambus in terms of technology and speed -- minus the filament exchanger system, which I personally think is dumb.
Don't get me wrong, I like the multiple color print idea. But if I ever do that I will definitely get a dual or multi-extruder machine instead. The Bambu AMS wastes an absurd amount of filament on material change, and in highly detailed or sub-optimized prints can turn out to spend more weight in filament purging and pooping out the excess from color changes than actually winds up in the finished model.
New Lemmy Post: I Designed a 3D Printable Balisong Knife (https://lemmy.world/post/9159573)
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