Back in December I got my P1S and since I mostly printed Vases and plant pots back then, I decided to mostly use PETG.
That PETG as I now know was just Wet, which caused it to ooze out of the nozzle after the print, a Fact I hated. Since at the time I must've be pretty stupid, I decided to clean it by Heating the Nozzle to the max of 300°C and let it ooze fully out. It did work and the prints after it where fine... so I did it another 10-20 times until I got a Brass Brush and started just using that...
In retrospective, Filament really shouldn't be heated over its limit... because that probably Backed in the PETG really hard. Mustve been to the point where the nozzle clogged, getting me to cold pull it a lot.
Big question is, is there still Backed in PETG in that nozzle, even after 20 or so Cold Pulls? It definetly seems to underextrude a noticable bit. Should I use the replacement nozzle or look into other reasons for said Underextrusion? Thanks!
Edit: Did as suggested and tried swapping the nozzle, thermistor was stuck and getting it out broke it, replacement thermistor is gonna take till thursday to arrive, god I hate this machine
First of all: Nozzles are replacable and they are also cheap. They are also wearing down with time. So if you worry, just replace the nozzle. And if you want to know if there is still filament stuck in there, unscrew the noozle and look at it.
I've been liking my oxbidian nozzle but not cheap at all. I've been throwing wood fiber pla and GID PETG at it and it seems to handle it well. Doesn't seem to be showing sign of wear after a year.
I've noticed partial internal blockages when switching between PETG and PLA; ie' when purging, the new filament curves as it's coming out and I'll get inconsistent extrusion till it shakes a small fragment of the old filament out in the next print.
While cleaning filament helps, I think that's mostly as I can run it at 290°C to flush the remaining anything out... Plus it's a much longer filament swap process to do cleaning filament in between...
While regular nozzles are super cheap, the nextruder nozzles from Prusa aren't, especially the High Flow ones, and double especially the high flow Obxidian ones... The high flow nozzles also don't let you cold pull them the same way, which sucks...
When I started with my first printer, the flashforge A3, someone suggested having separate nozzles for PLA from PETG... I used to do this and it prevented many problems I'd been having from ever starting. I'm beginning to think about doing the same with my Mk4S, and having a separate hotend/nozzle combo for PETG, PLA, and PCCF that I can just swap...
So then I'll just need two new mk4 silicon socks in colours other than black so I can tell them apart....
You like the high flow ones? I've heard mixed reviews on those. I switch between pla and PETG quite a bit and haven't noticed an issue. Certainly not with the current oxbidian. I switch between the 0.4 oxbidian and 0.6 brass quite a bit (actually using the 0.6 much more often now) so really wouldn't want a collection of separate nozzles for each size too, nevermind separate hotends (why separate hotends btw?) Don't get me started on the prusa silicone socks. I have an orange one but prusa used to make some that didn't have a tapered nipple going down onto the nozzle. Every other one I've found has the damn nipple (tip, if you see one pictured online that doesn't have it, guess what, I guarantee when you receive it there will be a nipple on it). The nipple on the sock makes it much harder to get a wrench on the nozzle and just makes nozzle swapping more of a hassle than it should be.
My mk4s has just been replaced by Prusa. I've been chasing down first layer problems that manifested as load cell bed scan calibrations being haywire and filament blockage false positives.
After replacing just about every part of the nextruder 2 parts at a time, it started leading to the loveboard being the culprit, but after 6 weeks of troubleshooting, I asked for this to just be solved already, so they've JUST delivered the replacement.
So for me, it will be starting from scratch sith my mk4s, and figuring out what's needed.
Given I print mostly PETG structural parts, I'm imagining that I'll likely end up with 0.8mm as my default, and 0.6mm Obxidian as my abrasives nozzle. (I have been waiting to print PCCF for a while...)
It's a P1S. A nozzle that is hard/cumbersome to change is 15 USD. One that is almost as easy to change as a regular nozzle is 35 USD.
Add shipping costs, maybe taxes, the fact that they can have crazy delays...
I remember on my old printer I'd by a bag of nozzles even if I didn't need them. But on a Bambu... Yeah, I'd try to salvage the nozzle too.
Is there anything fancy about the nozzle or is that just the general grift companies are doing with replacement parts?
It is a stainless steel nozzle, but the real problem is that it's not just the nozzle, it's either "hotend" with cooling ribs etc, with lots of fiddling to connect wires etc, or "complete hotend" that also comes with a fan so more of the wires are already connected.
See https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/bambu-hotend-p1-series?variant=40923060797576
I wish they did like Prusa where you can also buy assembly, but they have one that is basically an adapter so you can use any regular cheap nozzle.
Cries in PrusaXL...
Whats wrong with the prusa? Considering getting one
Oh it's a fantastic printer, but the default brass nozzles are $25 and the hardened steel are $53. Also you have to buy up to 5 of them at a time. Add to it, a 36cm^3 build area and you start to realize how fast the brass ones flatten their tips.
In short, nozzles aren't cheap.
Thanks for coming to my ted talk.
can you not get 3rd party ones?
TBH, I hadn't thought about it. But you're right, I bet they are revos or something. Even then, those are still expensive. You aren't buying a bag of 20 for $10
It certainly depends on your hotend but I'm able to get a bag of 20 for <10€ for my trusty old ender 3 (actually 4.17€ on AliExpress)
You could get the nextruder <> v6 adapter and then use the cheapos
Maybe, I wonder how well the calibration would work for multi color printing then. Might be worth a test
I've been printing for years on my original nozzle...do you guys just suck at calibration??? Admittedly I only print pla.
.4mm tevo tornado here.
Unnecessary aggression for sure but you can do better next time.
I have a 3d design business. I've probably got thousands of print hours on my various printers. Some go non-stop for weeks. Brass is soft, it wears out.
If you need me to take some caliper measurements of worn out nozzles and how it impacts a print, I'd be happy to educate you.