3DPrinting

https://twitter.com/makersmuse/status/1722208361603867110

Hey everyone.

I built an mk3s+ from its kit form successfully, tested a few PLA prints with the stock 0.4 nozzle.

I've set prusaslicer to use a 0.6 nozzle now that I've upgraded, and am using PETG. Prints look pretty bad, in spite of calibrating z-offset etc.

If you were doing something like this for the first time, what would your setup steps be like?

To be specific, using a diamondback 0.6 nozzle, matterhackers PETG at 235c.

Issues I'm seeing are a really bad loss of detail, lots of stringing, etc.

eta: added a photo of a moderately post-processed part. Notice how rough the top surface looks, there's a disconnect between perimeter loops, etc.

I ran a selftest and the manual test and the X-axis keeps failing. I don't know why.

I tried:

Re-lubing

adjusting the X-axis belt

Adjusting the cables

I've had no luck with anything :/

Edit: I've watched a video and the extruder just hangs on the left side it for most the time it doesn't go left then right, right aaway

Edit 2: I found the issue that I completely overlooked cuz I was annoyed...the bearing was sticking out somehow

I'm glad this happened on the first layer of a 2-day print, at least.

I'm using Revo's recommended settings for PETG, on a 0.6mm nozzle, printed with Prusament PETG.

I haven't printed anything since July, and this is the second print in a week. The first print was mostly fine, but had some strange artifacts on one end of the print which I attributed to Octoprint acting up (I've since sanded them away so I don't have pictures). Just to be safe, I greased the smooth rods, checked the belt tightness, and re-ran XYZ calibration + first layer calibration.

I watched this whole first layer get put down - everything seemed to be absolutely fine, with a couple "zits" in one section (actually right next to where the blob landed; you can see them in the second picture).

The print head lifted up to start another section of the print and this massive glob of PETG fell off the hotend and landed right on the print, which forced me to cancel. Then I noticed a big ol' glob on the nozzle too (no idea where it came from). Trying to remove it broke the silicone sock.

I've ordered a new nozzle just in case this one is worn, but I'm curious if anyone has any ideas as to what could be the underlying issue here? My retraction length is 1.1mm with a retraction speed of 27 mm/sec.

Its printing PLA and you could smell it very strongly and was super cool to see

so im a teen with not alot of money but i want to get into 3d printing, another community suggested the ender 3 original. it looks like a solid printer but who know im a noob after all. my budget is around 100$ or less. im looking into making mini figures and painting them or whatever nerdy thing i find. i know the budget is tight but im hoping there is something, also im debating on buying a used 3d printer because they seem cheaper.

also any tips for a noob would be great like what makes said model good or bad compared to other models and such.

I'm looking at getting an airbrush kit for my prints and for my wife's crafts. Can anyone recommend a good kit since I know nothing about it? All feedback appreciated.

Will be someone at the Formnext next week, or does someone want to ask/know something specific from the people who are gonna be there?

https://twitter.com/CNC_Kitchen/status/1720374528985973115

Toooons of waste. 2.5/1 waste/print ratio. wow.

timelapse: https://twitter.com/CNC_Kitchen/status/1720410680736489913

Tons of 3d printed parts. James uses sooooooooooo much. Love it.

Filament is wound around a cardboard core and secured with straps. This allows the reuse of the spool sides, reducing waste.

I got an Ender V3 S2 a month ago to build a darksaber for my kid for Halloween. Came out looking great. No complaints. I then did a couple of upgrades (bed springs, converted to direct drive, Klipper/Mainsail rather than stock firmware/UI) and it's a lot easier to dial in bed tramming.

Now he wants a "drill sword", a project that's requiring much tighter tolerances. Things are sticking together, which is fine, I'm here for the process of adjusting settings and dialing in things like retraction and wiping and that sort of thing.

Problem is, all the calibration tests I'm doing - the retraction test built into Orca most notably, but also the pressure advance tests (tower and lines) - all seem about 90% dialed in no matter what I do. No retraction, tiny wispy lines I can wipe away with my finger. 8mm retraction at 60mm/s, same tiny wispy lines I can wipe away with my finger. Pressure advance test prints look nothing like the images on the Orca tutorial page, where there's a clear breakdown in quality at a certain point where you can measure and say, "A-ha, there's the right setting." They're all just mostly good but not perfect. But this drill sword, if it's not perfect, will seize up and not telescope correctly. I've mucked with about 15 different settings and the pre-print tests always come out stuck together when they should be free from one another.

Is this normal? Is there some safety setting that's keeping me from screwing things up?

Thanks for helping a noob out.

I have been trying to print a print-in-place planetary gear without any luck. Today I found out about a setting that finally got it to print. Cura's slicing tolerance -> exclusive uses the largest part of each layer to calculate the slice which can help when trying to print something with tighter tolerances. Unfortunately, the setting doesn't appear to be in any other slicers, but maybe someone else knows another way to achieve this.

Gina had posted previously ( https://octoprint.org/blog/2023/10/26/we-need-to-talk-about-funding/ ) that she needed more support or she was going to have to stop maintaining Octoprint and get a full time job. Apparently everyone came thru!

If you use Octoprint, I urge you to donate (I do). Even $1/month is WAY more than you think it is. https://octoprint.org/support-octoprint/

It's a magnet-drive linear motor printer. Nothing like it on the market. I'm interested to see if this goes anywhere.

Link includes assembly instructions and Adam Savage video.

Direct link to files: https://downloads.ctfassets.net/rporu91m20dc/4ZuhHsWKvwCRbyvDZ9anHn/d6b0fb313fbe3f8417ea8f1cea442c1c/Starfield_Frontier_3D_Print_Files_v1.zip

This video by dizekat shows a new kind of kinematic system based on string. It should be possible to make very fast but cheap printers like this due to low inertia of the system. Very interesting!

They always make really good shadowboxes.

Printed a pumpkin tie fighter. Designed by fixumdude https://printables.com/model/297574-pumpkin-pie-fighter-halloween-themed-star-wars-tie

Completed my Mandalorian costume just in time for Halloween.

I have a Sapphire Plus printer which I have heavily modified (out of the box it is a piece of junk). After finally changing the mainboard and installing Klipper I got it to print reliably. Of course the next thing I wanted to do was print fast. It quickly became apparent that the E3D V6 hotend and the anemic 3010 fans severely limited said goal. So I got myself a Dragon HF hotend, a 5020 blower and printed this print head. From the get go I had massive problems with retraction, even after calibrating pressure advance the retraction towers I tried in Orca Slicer where all stringy messes. I kinda got it under control by severely slowing the retraction speed to 25mm/s with a 0.4mm retraction distance with nozzle wipe.
But now I'm sometimes getting these weird stringing artifacts on prints. Not on every print and not on every part, it's just certain seams that get them. I'm currently printing with a 0.6mm CHT nozzle and a fresh roll of Elegoo PLA. Does anyone have any idea what could be the culprit? It ruined the finish on a few otherwise perfect prints.
I even tried out this print: since it has a lot of retractions, but of course that one turned out perfectly apart from a few tiny whisps.

I ran into this on one of the models for the Voron's Clockwork 2 (specifically, this one ).

The sliced preview shows the error, which printed... very dutifully as instructed. .

The print was easy enough to clean up, but now I have one of my own designs and the same thing is happening :(

Any ideas to fix it? My model was straight from Fusion 360 and appears manifold. I'm pretty sure the Voron components are also modeled in Fusion 360.

Edit / small update: it looks like the error is specific to SuperSlicer. I tried the same model in PrusaSlicer and didn't have any issues.