3DPrinting

Is there any reason that little silver part of the extruder wouldn’t move and start clicking while printing when printing at 205 in PLA. It seems to turn just fine without any filament in there otherwise.

I cleaned out a nozzle clog, but is it possible there’s junk in the hot end stuck?

Resolution: Thanks for your help everyone! It ended up being a nozzle clog that I didn’t get all the way out. I ended up heating the printer up and doing the cool down trick. That seemed to work as a last ditch effort before buying a new nozzle.

I just got this assembled last weekend.

printables, complete with F3D file.

This is a battery adapter that will allow you to insert D cell batteries into a LiitoKala Engineer Lii-500. I included the Fusion 360 file, so you can customize it to fit other applications, but odds are it will fit most 4+ 18650 based chargers that are also compatible with Ni-MH.

It prints in two halves that I simply hot glued together around their perimeter. It's not like this part is going to see very high loads… The parts are designed to print without supports. My copies are 20% infill (you could easily go with less) and 3 walls for an overall wall thickness of 1.16. Wall thickness is something I wouldn't change, at least for the battery side so the battery terminals don't eventual fail. The batteries are a very slight interference fit to ensure a robust electrical connection.

For terminals, I used 8mm wide nickle strip. I'm sure you could use something else, but I had some on hand and it seemed like an obvious application. Connections between the two halves were made via wires and solder.

Pictured is my Kobo Clara 2e with a laser cut leather cover hand stitched to the 3D Printed Parts and replaceable arms. So far I have the Kobo Clara 2e, Kobo Nia and the Kobo Clara HD designed. I've also made the parts available on

Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6340022

Printables: https://www.printables.com/model/662929

and the FreeCAD design files are on GitHub: https://github.com/the16bitgamer/16BitVirtualStudiosDesigns/tree/main/GLoA%20E-Reader%20Cases/6%20inch

Shameless plug for my own design. Printing these again this year for holiday gifts.

Edit - stl https://www.printables.com/model/205147-flexi-christmas-tree-ornament

I have always wanted to try printing larger, using a bigger nozzle - just got around to swapping to a .6mm in my MK3S+. Printed a gift for a childhood friend. 300% size. Took just under 10 hrs. With the slicer settings on .4mm it was over 17hrs.

Pretty sure I'm having heat creep up the Bowden tube, as it's getting jammed a few cm back from the hot end and then can't push the filament any more. When I get it out there's a little molten bulb at the filament.

In this fail, I think it jammed as usual and the extruder found a way to keep going.

I tried turning down the hot end from 215 to 200 and it's still failing. My cooling fan is running at 100%.

This is the third time I've had this print fail at about this layer, around 1 hour into what will be a 26 hour print.

Any ideas?

Good day! I am running a Klipperized Sovol SV06+ and have been getting some really great prints. I am however having an issue where lately I am having to adjust the Z offset with each new print. I did a first layer calibration and got a perfect result but after a couple prints I saw I needed to lower it to get a good first layer. Again I printed a few and then again I needed to lower it. This has happened a few times.

Yesterday I was printing a pretty large print and midway through the extruder shifted (the print remained secure to the bed) and continued printing. After I canceled the print I had to lower the Z offset much further than I thought was possible. I am concerned that the bed keeps "lowering".

I have a very good bed mesh loaded (used the silicone bed leveling mid I have seen discussed). I am just unsure why this is needing to be adjusted and why the last print went wonky (related?)

Thanks much!

Entry level or mid range, I don't want to break the bank as it probably won't get used much but I don't want to get straight trash either. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

So I was thinking of adding USBC PD to my ender 3v2 for a off grid setup. Is it possible or have I gone mad with USBC? I know it's possible with my old monoprice select mini because of its low power requirements.

Heard I can use acetone for PLA, but not for PETG. Glued a joint and there is residue extruded and unfortunately it's a very shiny / translucent PETG. Any suggestions for cleaning up thin white residue stain from the cyanoacrylate?

Thank you all for your help! After yesterday's Input I managed to Print my Box! The Problem was (mostly) the Bed temperature! The lower Bed temperature (60°C) and the now successful Firmware-Update (special thanks to DABDA) done the trick!

Thank you all for your help and your advice!

Hello I'm very new to 3D printing, I'm using a Sovol 06 with 1.75mm PLA. I'm trying to print a Box (for MTG-Cards). But everytime the bottom of the Box starts to "deatche" itself from the Bed. It starts with one corner and then progresses to the whole print. The Nozzle temperature is 200°C and the Bed temperature is 80°C. Can someone help?

Any ideas as to what I'm doing wrong?

This sphere has a ridge on it, and I've had miniatures come out with the base to be slightly offset giving a bit of a ridge.

I'm using a Halot One, lychee Slicer, and Anycubic Water Wash resin.

Hello community, I'll try to be brief. My 13 year old son got a 3d printer as a gift, and I'd like to learn alongside him. We have 0 experience. However, I am a data scientist, so lots of professional Python experience, if that helps. We're a foss/Linux family so my questions are:

What tools are the best to learn for 3d printing for me? I am ready to learn CAD programming. Can you all recommend a tech stack and resources to learn it?

I'm thinking of making a dry box for my printer, however I have some questions:

1. Will using PVC pipe as a "roller" (if that's the right word) that I'll place my filament spools on be good enough? Or do the spools need to go on something more concave? Maybe I can cut some grooves for the spools to sit in? I know there are dry boxes that use like holders that you screw in, but I want to limit the amount of holes in the box.

2. Does filament have to be spaced or can I put the spools in the box to where there is no gaps but they can still move freely?

3. Does it matter if I use M6 or M10 pneumatic couplers to feed the filmanet through or is it just personal preference?

I'm eyeing the Bambu P1S for $100 off, myself.

Edit: looking for 3d printing related deals.

I printed a small sponge holder a while back and have been using it about a year now. Ive been seeing these ads for silicone drainers lately and decided to make something similar. This is actually v2. The first one had a separate base and grates on top but I didn’t like how it turned out. This is a combined grate and base. Printed in 4 pieces and welded together.

Video: https://streamable.com/p1g18u

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/8615378

Designed and 3d printed my own custom case for the K8 Pro, since I thought it was too tall and I didn't want a wrist rest.

The ring and bracelet are based on the Dragon Scale Vase https://www.printables.com/model/353853-dragon-scales-pot-and-planter-vase-mode

3D-model collections like Printables or Thingiverse are awesome. Required (ASAP) a CPU socket cover to ship the motherboard. Found it online and 15 minutes later I had the part on hand.

Our kids are starting to outgrow our double stroller, but will still want to ride from time to time. We've had this wagon for years, but it needed some upgrading. Rather than toss it and buy a new kid wagon, I decided to modify this one. Its biggest deficit was its wheels. They had metal sleeve bushings instead of real bearings and the wheels themselves were basically just an ABS doughnut with a narrow/thin rubber bands for tread. The treads had all cracked and fallen off. All this made the wagon hard to pull and loud.

I decided to make my own wheels to solve both problems. The new wheels consist of two halves and a TPU tread. The halves are keyed to mate with each other and are held together with m3 nuts/threadserts. Each half contains two skate bearings, resulting in four bearings per wheel. It's probably overkill, but I didn't want to leave the two halves unsupported in the center of the wheel at their interface.

Built in bridges for the somewhat weird shape to trick the slicer.

Now my 3 year old can pull me around in the wagon.

Hello all,

I have had Prusa MINI for a few years already and I have printed PLA without an issue but recently I have printed only PETG for some time I got through multiple spools of PETG without any print in PLA. But after I tried to print PLA my extruder kept skipping and grinding filament and when I tried to feed filament by hand it went easy for a little bit but after that, it went very hard as if the filament was cold so I tried to bump up the temperature to 235C and it helped a little bit but on faster sections of print like the infill extruder is skipping again. I don't think I have unreasonable speeds i am using a standard Prusament PLA profile with Prusament PLA. I have also tried PLA+ from some different brand with the same result. Then I changed the nozzle from an E3D hardened steel nozzle with nano coating to brass (not new I have printed PETG on this one as well) still with the same result. PETG is printing fine. Is there something I can try, please? I am out of options.

My submission to Printables piggy bank contest. Was done in Fusion 360. Face could be exchanged for other animals, or none-animal things, so I'd love to see remixes of that.

Link to my submission: https://www.printables.com/model/650545-cube-piggy-bank

This Halloween I finally realized my dream from years ago, an articulate T-Rex tail. Unfortunately I didn't have the time to also create a mask/ helmet that goes with it. That's gonna be for next time. The thing is modeled in blender and printed in vase mode. The individual pieces have four holes drilled in and are held together by wooden rods. I initially imagined keeping them together with printed buttons but the rod design worked perfectly on a small scale model.