3DPrinting

As I'm graduating college in a few weeks, I'll be losing access to my university's free printers and filament. I'm going to build up a home lab with a couple printers where I can make goofy little mechanical projects as well as some components for my cars and stuff.

Who's your go-to for PLA and ABS/ASA filaments? Those will be my primary print jobs in any serious volume. I know our college's club has had hella problems with random chinese brand filaments not printing consistently but I also don't want to spend $30+ per kg for something like Prusament.

Youtube video
3D model on Printables

Made a FreeCAD tutorial for making this container: https://makertube.net/w/mg7rdKStSUua7AhnAt1RoM I have to warn you that I made a bunch of mistakes and it may be really hard to follow.

This is a follow up from my spaghetti post a few days ago.

Good news: I caught the nozzle catching on the infill during travels. The infill must have been curling up ever so slightly. Turning z-hop on solved this. I also bumped my nozzle to 255 based on a temp tower, but I don't think my original issue was flow related.

Bad news: this brought me to the failure above - evidently my chamber temps are too low for this size of ASA part and it warped. Maybe the higher nozzle temp contributed. Maybe this size of ASA part is unrealistic despite not having sharp corners. Maybe it's the fact that it's continuous from side to side. I am still going to attempt to print a hollow cylinder to go between this piece and another similar piece in ASA, so I guess we'll find out!

Good news: the part did not let go of the build plate. I'm pretty happy about this. My first layer is not overly squished, I've never used any adhesion aids (glue stick, hair spray, ASA slurry, etc), etc. Tuning my print_start sequence is resulting in a very consistent first layer.

Bad news: the build plate came up with the print. Holding the build plate down with binder clips or the like would probably just make something else fail.

Good news: I had enough PETG in stock to use that instead. Zero warpage, so great success. I had to go a bit slower because a flow test showed that I'm limited to around 25 mm^3 for PETG before the extrude motor started misstepping, despite bumping temp to 255 °C. I limited flow to 20 mm^3 to be safe. The print's a success so meh.

Printed out this little bathroom or whatever organizer. Gridfinity is neat. Choose your bins, glue to the base and viola.

Stl https://thangs.com/category/Gridfinity

You can download the files on:

Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6615905

Printables: https://www.printables.com/model/874747

FreeCAD Design Files: https://github.com/the16bitgamer/16BitVirtualStudiosDesigns/tree/main/GLoA%20E-Reader%20Cases/6%20inch

The files are for all the 3D Printable components which makes up the e-reader case. What's not included in the files is the cutting profiles for the case that holds it. But you can just use duck tape or some flexible adhesive and it'll work. Along with the screws, nuts and magnets required.

Source https://twitter.com/repkord/status/1788529858978717870

Video https://files.catbox.moe/ltbmfh.mp4

STL https://www.printables.com/model/866603-carboy-dryer-stackable

Description I wanted a carboy drainer that was 3d printable (because why not?). They're stackable, too.

References:

1. This model on Amazon was nice https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Carboy-Drainer-Pack-2/dp/B074KL8QD2
2. I liked the handle cutout on this model https://www.printables.com/en/model/734966-carboy-drainer
3. This model wasn't bulky enough and I didn't like the feet. https://www.printables.com/en/model/33122-carboy-drying-stand
4. This seemed clever, but too fragile. https://www.printables.com/model/841046-carboy-dryer-for-plastic-23-litre-carboy
5. This model was my main inspiration for size but wasn't bulky enough https://www.printables.com/model/305346-carboy-dryer

Licensing: Credit/attribution/link is my only requirement. Free to use, modify, or sell. Please share your work, I love to see it.

Shout out to [email protected]

I have recently obtained a friend's old Formlabs Form 2 SLA printer. I I am an absolute beginner to printing, but I am pretty excited to get into it.

However, the only place that I would realistically be able to put it is on my desk in my bedroom. From everything I've read, I need a better ventilated space with more tolerance for a mess than I could possibly provide.

I think that the right call is to just sell it and save up for some FDM printer, but at the end of the day, I have the SLA printer in hand.

I am asking whether these concerns about resin printers are really that bad and if I am actually fine to start learning printing with what I have in my bedroom.

My SUNLU S1 Plus filament dryer was slipping around getting yanked forward on my TUKKARI TLX MK4 enclosure, so I designed this mount which fits into the existing slots on top of the enclosure. Prints in two pieces that screw together since otherwise the supports would be complicated. Had to print the larger piece on my big bed printer (artillery sw x2). I'm using up the last of my prusament galaxy black pla.

https://www.printables.com/model/871193-tukkari-tlx-prusa-mk3mk4-enclosure-sunlu-s1-plus-f

Any suggestions before trying again after a reset? This is my first go round changing nozzle diameter. I went from a 0.4 mm nozzle to a 0.6 mm nozzle.

After the swap I checked my extrusion multiplier (no change needed) and tuned pressure advance (I had to decrease the value a bit, but it looks spot on now).

As part of the nozzle swap, I also bumped line width from 125% to 150% in Orca Slicer (should be around 0.9mm extrusion width) and increased layer height to 0.3mm. This should put me around 22 mm^3/s of material, which shouldn't be an issue for a Rapido 2 but this is the most flow I've pushed through it so far. Maybe I should bump temp a touch? I'm still at my fairly-low-for-ASA 230 that I was using with my 0.4mm nozzle.

The print didn't move on the bed and shows no signs of warpage. There also aren't any signs of curling on the areas that the nozzle must have hit to cause the layer shift.

The only thing that seems like a miss was having z lift turned off while troubleshooting a print quality issue. I had it set to only lift above 0.25mm (not on the first layer) and only lift below z 0mm (this probably disabled z-hop). Z hop when retracting is set to 0.2mm, which is less than my 0.4mm retraction length so it seems like changing the "only lift below below z" value would re-enable z-hop.

Our youngest broke his big brother's bumblebee. Three iterations later, everything fits pretty well and the older one is happy to have bumblebee back.

This part seems super niche, so no printables link. That said, if anyone needs a replacement for this VSO let me know and I'll upload it.

Hello all. I am very new to this but it is all very cool to me. I ran into a problem and I am not sure how to troubleshoot it. I downloaded a simple pull string helicopter off thingiverse. After running through the slicer software, the estimated build time is 131 hours. Relative to it’s size this seems insane. If I “run the simulated build”, there are long holds on one of the interior walls. I am hesitant to just “try it” and see if the pauses are a software thing that does not translate to the hardware. I am not sure how to break it down from here. Any advice?

Link to the plans included

cross-posted from: https://sh.itjust.works/post/18848847

The puzzle itself is cool, but I actually found the explanations of the mechanism design and 3D printing techniques more interesting.

He seems to have used a linear mechanism, similar to Oskar's floating anchors approach, but without the floating anchors. My guess is that the ball shape eliminated most of the twisting forces on the pieces which necessitated the floating anchors in Oskar's design.

Flattening off small areas of the pieces to allow them to be printed in an orientation which doesn't require support bothered me a bit, but I can understand why he did it. Support material can be a pain in the ass.

I've made a large number of custom prints, and all of them were created using TinkerCad. It's an amazing toolkit, stupid easy to use but versatile. That is ... until something needs a tiny adjustment somewhere. That's when I feel it would've been neat to use parametric CAD instead.

I have spent many hours following Youtube tutorials for Onshape, Fusion, and FreeCAD. Tutorial shapes like a LEGO brick are fairly easy, although I admit that this kind of modeling is a sharp departure from the kid-friendly TinkerCad.

My problem is that I don't want to make simple coasters or keychains, but complex shapes like this one. It's a holder/mount for two different kinds of walkie-talkies that I use, and the blue part slides into a tray in my car's dash where it sits nice and snug.

Question: How the hell do I even get started modeling something like this?? There's not a single straight cuboid here. Everything is slightly wedge-shaped.

The way I do this in TinkerCad is that I build the hollow first: I made a 3d model of the walkie, a little oversized, set it be hollow, and drop it into the shape - that's the red or orange shells you see.

It's 1.75mm filament going into 2mm layers. lol, wtf. Still looks great, though.

I think 1kg spools are too much, I want to experiment with ALL THE COLORS... But few manufacturers offer 250g, and they are sometimes twice the cost by weight.

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.sdf.org/post/16042365

SBC Case Builder v3.0 can create thousands of cases for popular SBCs and standard motherboards

OK guys, I finally found what the issue is, or at least kind of where it's coming from.

As some of you (and myself) suspected, my hot end is not reaching the reported temperature. I previously blamed the low readings on my IR thermometer on not being able to point the laser directly at the hotend, but it seems it was reporting accurate readings (around 95C when klipper reports 200C).

Now, here's where things get a little weird. At this point, I've used multiple thermistors, but swapped in a new one anyways. My board also has a pin for a second extruder thermistor, so I plugged it in to that one and changed the pin in my printer.cfg. No change.

I tried switching the bed and hot end thermistors on the board and in printer.cfg, no change.

I changed the thermistor "sensor type" from "EPCOS 100K B57560G104F" (same as the bed) to "Generic 3950", no change.

I found an article about tuning your pullup_resistance value. My cfg file did not have this value specified, so I added a line and started with the default of 4700, which made no difference (I'm assuming this value is loaded from the sensor type by default?). I toyed with the values until my thermometer read ~220C when setting the printer to that temp. However, to achieve this I had to adjust the pullup_resistance from 4700 to 13k+ (far beyond what should be needed) which makes klipper report 6C at room temp (print bed reports 27C). Unsurprisingly, I can hand-feed all the filament I want, but the temp reading is only now only accurate at 220C rather than only being accurate at room temp.

The thermistor, I feel, can be removed from the suspect list, as multiple thermistors exhibit identical properties.

I also feel the motherboard can be removed as well; there are three pins for thermistors, all three show accurate readings for the bed but identically inaccurate readings for the nozzle.

This only leaves software/ firmware, which I find incredibly odd for three reasons. For one, the printer was not even shut off in between "working" and "not working"; I successfully completed a print, and without shutting down, updating any configs, changing any settings etc., I swapped out the nozzle, and the printer hasn't worked since. Second, both the bed and nozzle thermistor are configured exactly the same, so if the nozzle is not set up properly the bed should be wrong too. Finally, Klipper is really straightforward and it's easy to configure things that commonly need configuring, it doesn't seem right that a configuration got changed and I'm completely incapable of finding what happened and fixing it.

As a Temporary Fix^TM^, I'm inclined to get a nice reliable probe thermometer, calibrate a pullup resistance value for common print temps, then updating my cfg whenever I want to change temps more than ~5c. This is obviously not even close to an ideal solution, but I don't know what else to try. Everyone else I've seen with this issue has resolved it either through hardware replacement or fixing settings, and I've tried all I can with both.

In keeping with my usual tradition of harping on about the dumb shit I design and slap up on Printables:

https://www.printables.com/model/862518-cat-shelf-bracket-for-smartykat-paw-perch-or-build

These brackets solve a specific, but major, usability issue with the aforementioned brand and model of cat accessory widely sold at Walmart, Amazon, Chewy, Pet Smart, etc.

Conversely, there's nothing stopping you from screwing your own piece of wood to the top of a pair of these and arriving at roughly the same result without shelling out 30 of your hard earned Washingtons.

Cat tax paid:

I finally got a filament drying box and I'm using it prior to and during prints. It seems to be helping. I'm a bit of a color queen, so I keep a pretty big backlog of different filaments. I've been storing them in vacuum bags but the vacuum bags often seem to lose some of their vacuum after a few months; the whole process is a bit of a pain. Is this really worthwhile or as long as I'm using the drying box can I forgoe the vacuum storage? If vacuum storage is still a good idea, are there better bags I should be looking for that don't lose some of the vacuum after a few months or is that pretty standard?

I know it's not a new problem, but I don't know what I can or should do..

I'm made a design that I shared for free on thingiverse under a Creative commons, attributions, non-commercial license.

I've been made aware today that two etsy sellers are using my design, they didn't ask me and they don't attribute me. I don't particularly mind that people print and sell my design (I understand the added value of it already being printed for the user) , but I feel it is unfair to buyers to not be made aware that the design is free and they could easily get it printed cheaper elsewhere (design is small, it's like half a dollar worth of plastic).

It would also have been nice to send me a share of the profit made from my design..

What can I do or should I do ?

Hey, my printer recently stopped working saying the filament ran out even though it was still in for use. I checked the sensor and sure enough it was worn down, so I replaced it. But now I'm getting the same message even though I just replaced the sensor and all the wires are connected back to the sensor and printer. If it helps any, I use a longer 5 pro.