3DPrinting

I made a configurable Task planner that you can easily edit using OpenSCAD customizer (or various compatible customizers like the one on Makerworld).

I've posted this here once already some time ago, so here's what's changed:

• tasks can now be provided as a comma-separated items
• font can be changed in customizer (added due to a request for Korean language support)

This seemed neat!

Quick question to the community, does anyone have some good tools to sculpt stls or step files?

Context, I'm working on some decorative keychains and have a vector image and text I want to add to the base object. I've used aolidworks for both in the past with alright results but I've switched over to freecad this year, haven't had a lot of luck adding in there, vector image is a tracing of a dog that I was provided, it's simplified but still has a lot of components.

I did look into blender but be honest I'm totally lost using it and have no clue what I'm doing coming from parametric modeling, I'm not an artist at all, my comfort zone is functional parts usually, but was approached by a friend. I did do some mockups in prusa/superslicer where I've added my image and text as negative volumes and merged into a single part. It works but it feels like a really hacky workaround (relevant XKCD) and would prefer to do it right. Any suggestions or resources would be appreciated!

If interested, here's the mockup that I've done a few test prints on, found I needed to change the line width of my vector a few times and made some features exaggerated so they'd come out more. I've (poorly) covered some identifying text on the back, left the rest as to get a feel for what I'm trying to do, did do some rough sanding on the below pictures. There's a pocket on the top edge that accepts a keyring, it's kinda chunky, about the size of a pog slammer or a thicker poker chip.

My MissChanger project is a Stealth Burner tool-changer system for Voron 2.4 and Trident.

And it is going along great 😚

"You need to buy this special heater pad to break the screen adhesive!"

No, I think you will find that in fact I don't.

No banana for scale, but let's say that it's not too big and not too small. The dimensions are 295mm tall, 270mm wide, and 240mm deep. If I had to do it again, I would be tempted to go a bit wider and touch less deep. It's probably better to be large in one of these dimensions as opposed to both of them.

Here's the top. It has a jack for charging, a connector to program the DSP, a switch to turn it on and off, and a battery gauge.

The speaker also has a built in handle that's way chunkier than it appears, but is still particle.

The big BOM pieces are a Dayton Audio LBB-5Sv2 for the BMS (battery management system), a Dayton Audio KABD-250 2 x 50W for DPS, amplification, and Bluetooth, a Peerless by Tymphany BC25SC08 tweeter, and an Italian-but-made-in-India woofer (a Coral PRF 165).

The print itself is three pieces: the bottom bit (black), the middle bit (white, blue, and white again thanks to not having enough white left to do it all in white), and the black top. Here's a CAD view that more clearly shows the three pieces:

the three pieces are held together with heat-sets and m3 bolts. There's also a tong and groove like joint to help the enclosure leak less air. I haven't noticed any evidence of air leaks while listening.

The amplifier and battery board mount to the bottom like so:

The middle was printed with some supports for the driver overhangs, but the ports and everything else were designed to print in place without supports.

This is certainly not meant to be audiophile build, but it's surprisingly decent. This isn't my first blue-tooth speaker, or even my first printed loudspeaker enclosure, but it is the first that was somewhat intentionally designed to have OK bass response while also being reasonably compact.

It measures fairly well. Frequency response, along with harmonic distortion, is pretty good. There's zero windowing or smoothing on this plot. I suspect the distortion spikes at 1 kHz, 2 kHz, etc are induced by the Bluetooth stack the board is running since they've shown up in multiple different enclosures and with multiple different drivers.

There's no nasty ringing, caused by either the drivers or the enclosure, so life is pretty good:

Hey guys I got the bambu P1S a couple months ago because it was recommended. I'm super new to 3d printing. This is my first one. I'm not new to electronics or computers. I ran a few of the built in prints, a dinosaur puzzle and this scraping tool but both came out fuzzy and in poor build shape. What can cause this? Shaky table? Cold temps (the printer is in my insulated garage getting around 65 degrees at the moment inside)? Is the stock bed bad? The filament it came with bad?

Thanks for any advice.

sauce, relevant highlight

Hi guys, been thinking about this for a couple weeks now but can't seem to find anything online about anyone who has tried it.

I'm considering converting my printer into a voron. However, since I currently have a fully functioning printer, I wondered why I can't print the extrusions rather than purchasing them? Of course they are larger than my printer's volume, but there was this video posted here a while back about a great way to create strong permanent joints for parts just like this:

https://youtu.be/zI8OgRRF5d8

The way I would do this would be to model the extrusions as a solid piece and make cutouts in the areas that bolts are meant to be ran through.

Is this even within the realm of possibility, or is there a specific barrier that has prevented others from trying this? The obvious concern is stability/ rigidity, but if everything is printed at voron part standards or thicker with an infill pattern like gyroid, would the decrease in rigidity be too much for input shaping to compensate for?

Thanks for any ideas or input! If there aren't any major road blocks or examples of this failing I think I'll try it out once I've got the space for it.

Hello,

I am trying to figure out which printer with multi-color capabilities to buy, and I'd like to hear some other people's opinions.

Note: I can't buy Bambu Labs products, so please do not recommend one.

Current options:

• Prusa Mk4 and MMU3.
• Voron 2.4-style (either Formbot kit or Sovol SV08) and ERCF, and eventually DAKSH toolchanger.
• Ratrig V4 and the upgrades when they come out.
• Creality K2 Plus (when it comes out).
• Qidi Q1 Pro and the rumored multi-color unit.

My current thoughts:

• I am happy wait a bit if that's the best option.
• I like the fact that the MMU3 mechinism doesn't waste as much filament as some other mechanisms. It's easier for me to pay more up front for the mechanism than constantly keeping tons extra filament in stock.
• The potential for a Voron to be upgraded to a toolchanger with DAKSH is intising.
• High print quality is important to me, although I can't imagine any of these would result in bad quality.
• Prusa XL is outside my budget :(

Please let me know your opinions, and thank you to anybody who read this far.

I am curious how often do you service the linear rails on the 3D-printer:

• How often do you lubricate them (MGN9 or MGN12)?
• How do you lubricate them?
• What volume of lube do you use?

Don't think I've seen this before. Don't even think the author has things for sale from what I can tell. Couldn't find an obvious option on any of my models to toggle this either.

Anyone know what's going on?

Total clog with prusament pla in line. Can't feed anything through even at high heat. Cold pull not possible / filament not making it into hot end to do this.

You can see little bit of filament sticking out in photo, but with pliers this just tears.

Should I try heating up the whole hot end tube with a soldering iron to see if I can liquify the clog out?
Any other ideas? I can't find many good resources about what to do in this situation online. Also, obviously needs to get cleaned up a bit, but does picture of my hot end tip look pretty ok? Do I need to bite bullet and get a new hot end? If so, are Amazon off brand replacements ok, or do I need to wait for one to get shipped from prusa?

Thank you

So I run a repair shop in Altamonte Springs, FL - Got a weird one that searching the internet only turned up 1 other instance of it happening, so I wanted to post some details on the repair in case someone else runs into it or in case Creality doesn't admit that it's a thing.

Creality K1 Max - Symptoms: Unable to finish initial calibration. X and Y Axis moving twice as far as commanded, auto leveling absolutely destroying the build plate.

Initial steps in fixing this were to replace the main board. Creality shipped some of these printers with some interference around the main board which could have screwed up the drivers. Many references to this across the internet.

After replacing the main board, it still would not get past the input shaping setup, so the next thing to replace was the toolhead board on the K1. It seems the accelerometer on this one was either A: Damaged by the customer in their attempts to fix, or B: Faulty from the get-go.

After replacing the toolhead board, the machine would get past the initial input shaping, but it would do it in the back left corner of the machine (from experience, this should be done in the center of the plate). So upon homing, I also noticed that it wouldn't regularly go all the way to the front right of the machine. When commanded to go X negative, 10mm, it would go like 24mm instead.

In the end, I needed to: Replace mainboard, Replace toolhead board, let the machine crash into it self for 20+ minutes while going through Auto-leveling on the initial power on stage, connect it to your network, upgrade the firmware, DO NOT HEED the warning that you need to auto-calibrate again.

Follow this guide to root it: https://guilouz.github.io/Creality-Helper-Script-Wiki/helper-script/helper-script-installation/

THEN, after it's rooted, install Moonraker/Nginx, Moonraker or Fluidd, then connect to one of those interfaces, edit your printer.cfg and change rotation distance to 72 for this variation of machine.

If you notice that the sensorless homing is not acting perfectly due to the different step-size of this machine, driver_SGTHRS: 55 is the configuration option you're looking for, and you need to set it on both X and Y. 55 worked for me, but the default is 75. 0 is least sensitive, 255 is most sensitive. I had to set mine to be less sensitive to finally work.

Once you've made these changes, you can save/reboot and test out homing/movement once again. If everything seems okay, go ahead and run the self-test to complete the repair.

Tiny desk shelves for kiddo. Stl https://www.printables.com/model/713135-tabletop-shelf-rack

Here is the reverse side:

For the long and short of what this is. I make 3D Printable e-reader cases that are held together by stitching cloth or leather. Up to now the cover had the magnet as a part of the design, but with no way to upgrade or change it out. This is my solution for that.

With 8 screws and a tight fit, the cover can be swapped out when you upgrade or change out your e-reader. That way you can keep the case itself and just upgrade the components you need when you need it.

Still testing it, but very happy with how it turned out.

I've been looking into this material due to the really nice surface finish and clean look (actually purchased some already 😅)

However I recently came across a video by CNC kitchen where he raised some potential health concerns relating to the fibers specifically inside the filament. One of the commenters mentioned they couldn't wash the fibers off their skin, and another likened it to the "3d printing equivalent of asbestos"

I don't plan to print with it just yet due to needing a hardened nozzle, and spare extruder parts. However when I do, i'm feeling a little worried about how safe it is - mainly whether the final printed part is fine for occasional skin contact, or whether this material should ideally be left to just cosmetic parts.

P.S. image not mine, taken from here

Short overview of how good the nesting capabilities of various 3D slicer are.

The task is simple: placing as many of these shapes on a 200x300mm printed as possible. Manual (quick and dirty for reference): 6 pcs.

Ranking:

1. Ultimaker Cura: 7 pcs.
2. human (me): 6 pcs.
3. Orca slicer: 5 pcs.
4. PrusaSlicer & BCN3D stratos: 4 pcs. By switching (for this particular part) from the worst (Prusa) to the best (Cura) slicer the nesting performance improved by a whopping 75%!

Ultimaker Cura:

Prusa:

BCN3D Stratos (forked from an old version of Cura):

OrcaSlicer:

cross-posted from: https://sh.itjust.works/post/19906943

Had some left over rc junk, challenged myself to make it go without my usual over designing/thinking/planning procrastinating until I never even start. happy how it turned out! reminds me of a tyco bandit, probably shorten v2 even more and stick that bandit body on.

As the titles says, I tried to post a 2.2mb image and get a 413 error. Any help?

I have a CR 6 Max and I took apart the extruder and now whenever I put it back there are always problems.

Firstly the spring is impossible to put back correctly so it never aligns perfectly.

When I managed to screw in the screws such that is was as good as I could make it, now the filament does not insert properly.

How do I proceed from here? Is there an easier way to put it back together? Is it possible to get another extruder that works differently but is compatible with the cr 6 max?

Is it possible for the leftover residue, of tape on a spool to be scraped into the feed? As the filament drags over the edges of the spool?

cross-posted from: https://slrpnk.net/post/9706069

More images, description and print files: https://www.printables.com/de/model/885862-pellet-press-funnel-for-dry-herb-vaporizers

At least so far. The first go round had the nozzle crash into the tree support, resulting in a layer shift. The good news is that the print stayed very firmly stuck to the bed.

I've reset, lowered my extrusion multiplier a smidge, switched to a more traditional support pattern, and am going for it again. Wish me luck!