3DPrinting

I've been at it again.

I've been using the hell out of these drawer thingies, what with you fill with Gridfinity bins and store ~~pocketknives~~ various things in.

Well, I screwed myself over and it turns out I need a stack of drawers one cell narrower than stock. The original author posted sources in Onshape but I will be buggered if I'm signing up for Yet Another Account just for that.

So I reconstructed the entire thing -- my way -- in FreeCAD. Because obviously that's the less insane option. (I guess this also allowed me to excise the magnet ears from the drawers, which is a worthless increase in print time and small waste of material for me since I don't use magnets with my Gridfinity bins)

Anyway, here it is.

This is my dinky 2x2 test print. Which is very nearly but not quite completely useless. (For instance, it fits Nite-Ize cable ties very well, as you can see.) If it makes you feel any better, the generator absolutely will make you a 1x1, 1u tall drawer assembly if you ask it to which truly will be fully useless...

Fourth try on a print. Tried to add some adhesive to the bed to get it to stick better. Watched the first two layers and went to bed. Woke up to a printer on strike.

What could cause the strange part on the right? The whole surface should be the same, it's a 90° wall, so nothing that should look like this. Can't see anything strange in OrcaSlicer. BambuLab A1 Mini with Creality PLA+

I could edit the firmware but I like this just in case there are thermocouple issues.

I can also point a heat gun at it for a minute.

Snowflake Tie fighter card kit looks good in this blue clear PETG.

https://www.printables.com/model/91927-snowflake-tie-fighter-kit-card-ornament

After immersing myself in 3D printer content on YouTube and Lemmy, I'd talked myself all the way up to spending AU$2000 which is just absurd for a first timer, but then talked myself into the Sovol3D S06 ACE as a decent starting point, haha

Anyhow, I'll be running this in my garage (garage door open) and I think the first batch of filament in the pack is either PLA or PETG, which seems beginner friendly

I've been wondering about 3D printer profiles and calibration in slicer apps... is there a way to print as many benchies that will fit on the bed, but each which different profile parameters, so I can see which profiles do or don't work best? Or do current slicer apps always produce a plan that uses the same parameters for the entire job?

Note that I'm 100% on Linux (no Windows here), so I'm probably limited to https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer or https://github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer (or maybe https://github.com/GladiusSlicer/GladiusSlicer if I'm in the mood for contributing my own code)

I've consumed probably too much YouTube at this point, but any especially important hints and tips for a first timer would be appreciated!

P.S. oh, just noticed, https://lemmy.ml/post/23597074 thanks!

Glasses case in blue/clear PETG. Stl - https://www.printables.com/model/1105484-flexi-glasses-case

It did not like the cold garage. There are some barely noticeable layer separations in the upright sections.

Yikes. Gonna have to work with this material a bunch to learn how to use it.

Model - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1545913

VSO.

So we got one of these rather silly sponge holder ducks.

The only problem is that Mr. Quacks here doesn't quite weigh enough. With a sponge his beak -- especially one that's laden with water -- he's prone to falling over into the sink. The sponge is held quite a ways outboard, and altogether the entire duck only weighs 65.4 grams.

I tried one other gimcrack solution before this, which was to glue a suction cup to his butt. That didn't work very well.

Instead, I opted to fill him up with some ballast. These will do nicely.

Yes, all of these pictures were just taken on my grubby stovetop. No, I am not going to pull out all the stops to perform my usual level of photography on, let's not put too fine a point on it, a butt plug for a rubber duck. I used a very short (less than a meter) scrap of left over TPU I had lying around to make a... cork... so I could fill the duck with ballast and then keep it all inside.

I am also given to understand that I should have perhaps made such at thing corkscrew shaped, but I am very sorry to inform you that I didn't do this, either.

I didn't count how many BB's I used. Two fillings of that speed loader that came with my Crosman M4, is what it was. I'll let you do the math: Now he weighs a much more suitable 265.7 grams, a little over four times the original weight, and acts rather like a weeble-wobble. With this you can tip him over so far the sponge falls out before he topples over himself. And can also shake him like a maraca, if you're really bored.

So my dad broke the septic clean out cap with the lawn mower. He cannot find a replacement that is lower to the ground so I am printing a new one. Should I use PETG? Or another material. Also I hope this is not violating some form of regulation in the U.S.

Question: If you have tried a dodgy dual input hotend, what were your experiences?

Background: As with anyone else who have a single extruder, I've been contemplating upgrading to something with a bit more flexibility. But the idea of getting a whole new printer doesn't appeal as much to my wallet, as it does to my mind :-)

Scouring aliexpress for weird filaments with the mrs - you know, normal Saturday-evening-and-the-kids-are-sleeping couple activities - we fell upon a dual input hotend for creality cr10. It looks an awful lot like the hotend we have, and it comes with either 24v or 12v heater. It's only about 15€ so I might just give it a try, but it's pretty stupid when I don't even have a plan for an extra extruder as well. And I don't know how I would go about wiring that part up on my cr6 at the moment.

Anyone else in this boat? It was said by a Bamboo user when I was chatting about my modded Maker Select and the Voron I'm about to build.

I do use the printer a lot for designing and making projects like the sensors I just launched or the Twystlock for Steam Deck, etc.

But I like tinkering/making more. For example I used to mod video game consoles more than I played them, so the comment made sense to me.

I'm just getting into 3d printing and I'm looking for some recommendations. My budget is $400 and I've narrowed it down to the sv06+ or the Ender-3 V3. I like that the print size is bigger on the sv06+ but all reviews point to the Ender, do you guys have any recommendations for me?

Also maybe the bambu a1? Or a1 mini? I don't like that the firmware isn't open source though.

I'm OK tinkering but just want some insight.

Thanks!

Hi everyone,

recently, my brother asked me to print some tabletop miniatures for him on my Prusa MK4S. I know miniatures are most commonly printed with SLA printers, but I found some workable advice and so far my first attempts look decent enough.

However, I noticed most models I find are optimized for SLA printing or at least not optimal for printing with FDM due to difficult forms such as sloping and cavities that are hard to support. Also, I mainly print construction and replacement parts and would like to avoid swapping nozzles often. So I started researching SLA printers.

Owning a Prusa printer and liking it very much, I first looked at their SL1S and fell over backwards when I saw the price tag. Having owned an Ender 3 by Creality before, I checked their offers, which are a lot more budget friendly. However, on the other hand, having owned an Ender 3 I know that you get what you pay for: The bare minimum.

Therefore, my main question is: What is a good starter model for printing miniatures using SLA?

My follow-up question is regarding slicing software. I remember reading a couple of years back that SLA printers have no universal format like gcode and therefore slicing software compatibility is a bit of an issue. Is this still the case?

Stl - https://www.printables.com/model/654491-pixel-christmas-tree-large-with-led-tea-light-hold

The tree is vase mode so it shows a lot of light. I like it.

Edit - it's LED, not flame.

Upgraded from a NEMA24 to a NEMA34.

Before going out and milling or buying it in metal it is always a good idea to testprint it.

Probably will use the plastic part for a while as 3mm wall-thickness PETG seems might already be good enough.

The nozzle crashed into the print and tipped it over so I printed the top part separately and glued it there. Any tips how to hide the line where it's glued on? It's all PLA.

I'm pretty new to 3D Printing and just learned that apperantly PLA and PETG don't like sticking together. I have printed with both of them before without much issue tho?

Given that I plan on doing a Massive 4 Colour Print for Christmas, which will use Black & White PETG HF, Red PLA Basic and PLA Metal, I was wondering if this really is as Worrysome as people make it out to be? What are your experiences with mixing Filament Types like this?

This is a battery cell case that was a pain last time I printed it with supports

Model: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5240533/files

So, i wanted a personal 3d scanner a while back and bought the revopoint mini and creality cr-scan lizard with my own money. I wasn't too happy with either, and ended up buying an einstar afterward.

I made a video comparing the revopoint and cr-scan to show off the pros and cons, but never did a follow up on the einstar. Well, i guess shining3d (the people that make the einstar) saw the original video and thought it was good enough to send me their new handheld scanner (einstar vega, i know... confusing names) to play with for a month, so i did just that and compared it to my own personal original einstar.

I made another (hopefully entertaining) video, and thought i would share. I use the 3d scanner a handful of times per year to make 3d printed bits that fit well with existing real world items, and i have also made some stuff out of clay, and 3d scanned it to use in 3d printed designs when i want more organic shapes that are past my modeling experience.

happy to answer any questions about modeling processes, or the scanners themselves! :)

It seems like over the last couple months/half year there's been this new fixation with printing a huge perfect single layer of plastic all cross the entire bed of one's printer. I see lots of folks asking about calibration issues when they are trying to do this. It seems like it's sorta become a standard of sorts.

I just ask why?

It seems to use a huge amount of plastic and honestly I don't think it probably effects real world results that much.

I feel like the 3d printing community has a lot of shilling going on for companies and the information you get might not be entirely reliable. Look into the issues with this FLSUN S1 if you want to know what I mean.

But anyway, I have never had an impulse or see the need to print a single layer across the entire build surface of my printer. because I feel like that's a huge waste and doesn't actually matter when it comes to real world results.

Am I missing something? I kinda wonder if this kinda test is being pushed by the folks selling us filament, to sell us more filament. Is there a good reason to actually do this?

Please enlighten me!

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/23154733

Basically title, but I can provide some information.

I'm looking to spend no more than $300 or so. I'm not well versed in different filaments (I'll be honest, I know nothing) or really anything about 3d printing, but I want to be able to print cup holders for someone I know whose vehicle has none, I imagine heat resistance and strength would be important there. I also do robotics now and would like to be able to make my own small robot chassis and parts. I'm also a Linux user and like FOSS, which I believe is fairly compatible with 3d printing, so I would like to find a printer that doesn't make me use proprietary software and that I can use with Fedora Linux without too much hassle. I know I'm new to this, and I know I'm in other hobbies where people post things like: "I want to spend no more than 6 dollars to get artificial superintelligence running on an Arduino Nano," so I hope this isn't that, and sorry if it is. Thanks in advance.