The first layer needs to stick to the build plate well. If it doesn’t stick the print will fail and best case you’ll need to start again.
First layers are notoriously fiddly to get right because there are so many variables that affect it.
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: [email protected] or [email protected]
There are CAD communities available at: [email protected] or [email protected]
No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
Do not create links to reddit
If you see an issue please flag it
No guns
No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is ![](URL)
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
The first layer needs to stick to the build plate well. If it doesn’t stick the print will fail and best case you’ll need to start again.
First layers are notoriously fiddly to get right because there are so many variables that affect it.
Also 90-95% of print failures are due to a bad first layer (citation needed).
ITS ME. IM THE SOURCE
I Concur, ninja kitty is the source of all bad first layers
In addition to first layer adhesion being critical, it's a good calibration tool. The first layer makes it easy to see if you have your z-offset right, among other things.
I had mine too high and my e steps too low and compensated by adjusting flow and temp in my slicer which lead to other issues later on like bad overhangs, random gaps between layers, ugly top layers, etc. I was pulling my hair out trying to adjust slicer settings but my height and extrusion were just off.
After getting a really good first layer, prints have been way cleaner, simply because the settings required to get a perfect first layer matter for other layers too, they're just not as obvious there.
That's my newbie take anyway. I've been printing for about a month
Another good take: never compensate if you can calibrate or adjust the actual value. Or, simply, never compensate.
It's where the Spaghetti Monster is most likely to spawn from. True believers don't walk away until the first layer is complete.
Prusa has a stellar knowledge base for their printers as well as general info that can be applied to most other printers. You'll get some pla with the printer and I recommend loading the silver one to do the calibration with. You're looking for enough squish, there's a long lead in before the square for you to live adjust z, basically want a nice square that's cohesive but not peeling up in the corners, too low can cause adhesion problems as well. There's a good bunch of sample pictures on the prusa knowledge base.
Ellis' Print Tuning Guide is another solid resource that's applicable to most printers, not just vorons, the first layer squish is detailed and can help give you some more samples of what you're looking for. Just make sure your sheet and nozzle are clean before you start, cold nozzle ooze can impact your z calibration.
Think of it like laying rows of bricks. If the bottom row is uneven or off in some way, it's going to throw every row above it off.
I think about it like the tires on a car. They are (hopefully) the only part of the car that touches the road. If they aren't working correctly everything else isn't going to save you from a gentle curve in the road.