this post was submitted on 15 Jun 2023
21 points (95.7% liked)

3DPrinting

15655 readers
65 users here now

3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.

The r/functionalprint community is now located at: [email protected] or [email protected]

There are CAD communities available at: [email protected] or [email protected]

Rules

If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is ![](URL)

Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible

founded 2 years ago
MODERATORS
 

I have spent weeks of tuning PETG to print on my modified CR-10. I would get regular failures and really stringy prints. I had trouble getting it to stick to the bed, and could only print really slowly.

I was dreading trying ASA, but I bought a roll of Polylite ASA, put it on the printer without drying it, and used a default ASA profile I found online (I didn't even start with a temp tower). The only changes I made was a minimum layer fan of 10% as my PETG fan shroud needs constant cooling. I didn't see anything about enclosure temperature so I left it at 40°.

The first print started great but broke off the bed. The Z height was off and I didn't get it fixed until the first layer was halfway done. This benchy is the second print using a default ASA profile, no tuning.

I feel like I've wasted my time with PETG. This material has been so much easier to print.

Edit: not sure why my image didn't upload. I'm new to Jerboa.

top 5 comments
sorted by: hot top controversial new old
[–] Blackbart42 1 points 1 year ago

Looks nice, thanks for sharing. I've been meaning to try ASA for outdoor applications.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) (1 children)

Maybe slight overextrusion looking at the bow sides. Needs retraction tuning as well, looking at the smokestack.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 year ago

Yeah it's not perfect, but I didn't do any tuning at all, and I was running at a faster speed than I normally run for a warping material.

[–] Z_Karma 1 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago)

I have a CR-10S Pro V2 and like you, just threw a spool of polymaker ASA on it, tweaked the stock profile with turning off the fan, setting retraction to 4mm, first layer nozzle/bed temp at 265 then 150, 105 then 90 and lowering the Z height on the printer by like 0.04mm for a good first layer adhesion/squish.

Before playing with anything but the retraction, my benchy would warp and detach at 0.2", right at the deck height. After turning off the fan, like you, i got an almost perfect benchy.

Feeling emboldened i jumped right into attempting a 12hr print of a car grill emblem, 0.16mm layer height that measured 3.5"x 9.5" x .675" and it would warp at about 2/3's of the way through, even with a brim. The quality looked amazing up until the detach/warp. It happened at the same spot each time, a interior corner. I tried glue stick...nope, Aquanet hairspray was better, but the print still detached/warped each time in the same spot. It failed 4 times in all.

Last night I tried again, same print settings but with the addition of two things: a Comgrow tent enclosure (inside temp stabilized at ~40c) and a PEI steel plate bed from Creality.

This time it came out perfect, no warping! Gonna try the other half now.

If you get it dialed in, you should definitely reprint your fan shroud in ASA.

edit: I just double checked my PETG fan shroud and found that it melted, lol.