this post was submitted on 05 Jul 2023
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I see a lot of people claim they tune/calibrate their printer any time they use a new spool of filament. But does anyone actually do this? It feels like a waste of time when filament is so consistent, even between brands. I can understand doing it for specialty rolls, but for basic pla? Seems unnecessary

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[–] Sumeron 3 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) (6 children)

Not for each new roll of filament, but I am relatively new (less than 1 month) and with the same roll I have some prints failing. Mostly because they detatch from the bed (Material is PETG, on an Ender 3 Max Neo). I've tried a lot of things already:

  • Different nozzle temps
  • Z axis offset calibration
  • Cleaning the print-bed
  • Leveling the print-bed (including the screws and the A4 paper trick)
  • Heated bed vs. non-heated
  • Printer placed in an enclosure to prevent drafts

So far it seems to go alright, but I still get detatching prints occasionally, or deforming mid-print. It's kind of frustrating :(

[–] [email protected] 3 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) (2 children)

I had the same problem with my CR-10. The issue was that the weak original bed springs were too weak to hold the bed. The vibrations of the printer allowed it to move, causing the first layer to not adhere very well. I also had filaments get moisture after a week or two.

When people say upgrade the Creality bed springs, they aren't kidding. PLA is forgiving enough on the first layer, but upgrading those bedsprings was necessary for me to print PETG. I made them stiffer by adding 5-6x washers on each post to pre-compress the springs. This makes them much stiffer and stay put.

I also bought a filament dryer. I put a new roll of PETG in the dryer and put it in continuous mode at 55°, and print PETG directly from the dryer.

I still have to print PETG pretty slowly compared to PLA or ASA (my favorite material).

To OP's original question: I do a full tuning of PETG with a new maker/roll. PETG is a co-polymer. Each manufacturer could have a different amount of glycol on the PET chain, or even a different distribution (e.g. ABABABAB copolymers behave differently than AAAABBBB copolymers even though both are 50% B). Colorants can also affect behavior.

PLA I really don't tune. I add 5-10 degrees when I'm printing quickly. That's about it. I recently was printing a spacer out of the last bit of a PLA+ roll I had. The filament ran out and the printer halted. I loaded a matte PLA to finish (I slowed the printer down and bumped the temp up manually by 5 degrees since this matte stuff has layer adhesion issues), and it also ran out before the print was done. So I loaded a roll of transparent PLA that I bought 9-10 years ago (and was stored in an attic for 2 years) and is very brittle, and it printed just fine. The print looks strange (tan to matte terra cotta to transparent purple) but works great.

[–] Sumeron 1 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Oh thanks for pointing out the bed springs! That does sound like something that can be happening, since they seem to slowly 'unwind' causing the bed to lower. I'll add some washers; thanks for the tip!

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 year ago

I did this more as a temporary fix. There are lots of sellers of stiffer spring sets or silicone spacers for Creality printers online. There are also several models on thingiverse for printing your own spacers.

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