3DPrinting
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: [email protected] or [email protected]
There are CAD communities available at: [email protected] or [email protected]
Rules
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No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
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Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
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No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
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No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
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Do not create links to reddit
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If you see an issue please flag it
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No guns
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No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is 
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I would guess it ultimately depends on how much you're interested in modding, fine-tuning settings and calibrating the printer to perfection. If you only want to load a model and hit "print" then I guess you wouldn't notice much difference from just a mainboard swap. But since you're about to install Klipper, you probably have some interest in spending time optimising your printer :)
I've upgraded a lot of things on my printer, but not got to the mainboard yet so it still has TMC2208 driver hardwired in stealthchop mode. I never got much out of pressure advance while the printer was still in bowden mode, even with a BMG extruder which is much stronger than the stock extruder.. Can't say if it would've turned out better with TMC2209 drivers, but after modding the printer to direct drive I have no issue with pressure advance. Now the main reason I want to upgrade mainboard some day is that I would like a 5:th driver so I can do proper dual Z.
And a general Klipper recommendation, in case this is the first time you try it out; Resonance compensation is like magic, and it works perfectly fine calibrating it manually (i.e. without buying an ADXL). After calibration, I could increase acceleration to 4000 without visible ringing. For reference the default acceleration for Ender-sized bed slingers is usually 500, which IIRC can be upped to about 700-900 before you start to get ringing.. Not only does high acceleration make it print faster, but at least for me it had a bigger impact on corner quality than pressure advance ever had.