3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: [email protected] or [email protected]
There are CAD communities available at: [email protected] or [email protected]
No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
Do not create links to reddit
If you see an issue please flag it
No guns
No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is 
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
This is the temp tower of my wood print experiment Cand even se much difference. It goes from 260 to 190. Below 225 gets really flimsy and above 240 melts. But even 230, the "best" one is really bad, and I'm not talking about retraction. Even the layers that melt are inconsistent.
Also it's not humidity since the filament was in a filament dryer for.16hours.
edit: The nozzle is 0.8
can someone think of anything else?
can you print PLA on the .8 nozzle just fine? (I'd suggest clearing the clog- an atomic pull is my go to, maybe followed up with some cleaner filament, then a filament you know well.)
for some comparison, a .8mm nozzle has about four times the crosssection of a .4mm nozzle. (.502 to .125 mm^2), similarly, the volume of a 1mm line printed, assuming you're using a line width equal to the nozzle and a half your nozzle diameter in layer height, is about 4 times as much, as well. ( .32 mm^3 compared to .08 mm^3.)
in short, given the same printing speed, and the same diameter filament, you're going to have to extrude 4 times as much filament at any given moment, which means the filament will have to pushed through much faster than a .4mm nozzle, which in turn means that the plastic has about a quarter of the time to heat up before being pushed out of the nozzle tip- and there's more of it to absorb the heat.
There's a few things you can try, but probably the only one that would be effective without more or less rebuilding the hotend (and the new-parts-cost associated with that,) is slowing it down.
For the record, if it wasn't clogged before, it probably is now. since, ultimately, what would be happening is that the .8mm nozzle is causing your printer to print cold.
tbf my printer don't print well not even in 0.4. The 0.8 is printing better than the 0.4 was. I think the hot end may be the real problem indees