this post was submitted on 18 Mar 2024
74 points (98.7% liked)

3DPrinting

15720 readers
197 users here now

3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.

The r/functionalprint community is now located at: or [email protected]

There are CAD communities available at: [email protected] or [email protected]

Rules

If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is ![](URL)

Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible

founded 2 years ago
MODERATORS
j4k3
andypiper
henry_rowengartner
[email protected]
74
Installed some bling chasing better z-axis layer alignment. The new parts do look nice, but at this point I think I'm chasing ghosts (lemmy.world)
submitted 8 months ago* (last edited 8 months ago) by IMALlama to c/3dprinting
23 comments fedilink hide all child comments
 

While I acknowledge the expectations Ellis tries to set, all the youtubers out there have me chasing a dragon looking for better and better layer aliment on my z-axis. I suspect (at least) one of you will come out of the woodwork and say your printer has better aligned layers than mine too 😭 I'm certainly not alone, but even in that thread you can find some people claiming that not everyone experiences the issue

So far, I've been through three iterations on my CW2:

Results below with me hand holding my cellphone and moving a Pixar style desk lamp to be at a progressively steeper angle to the face of the cubes. Left = FYSTEC Pom (I also used Orcaslicer), middle = BMG IDGA, right = 'normal' BMGs. Note that the cubes are upside down.

Vanity shot with very soft and indirect light

Direct light, 90 degrees to the face of the cubes (basically perpendicular)

Direct light, ~45 degrees to the face of the cubes

Direct light, ~5 degrees to the face of the cubes (basically parallel)

At this point, I am going to shrug, give up, and print with fuzz (or avoid harsh light).

you are viewing a single comment's thread
view the rest of the comments
[–] IMALlama 3 points 8 months ago (1 children)

Extrusion variance is one of the reasons why I was focusing on my extruder. I'll have to try a different brand of filament though. I've been printing more or less exclusively in Pokymaker ASA. It's cheap, and prints well enough, but I can't find tolerance info on it.

Z-hop is not disabled, I'll have to give that a shot. This is a Voron 2.4, which has geared and belted Z. I'll have to do the math to see what the actual resolution per full step is later tonight.

I've given the gantry a once over twice now and everything seems square/right and moves freely.

Right now I'm thinking my order of attack will be:

  • Try a print in atomic filament PETG since I trust the quality of that filament to reduce one variable
  • Check belt tension all around
  • Run through Ellis's tuning guide
  • Input shaper
  • Print a cube in vase mode (I have a bunch)
  • Disable thin walls
  • Disable z-hop
  • Reduce (or eliminate) micro steps
  • Slow down velocity and reduce accelerations
[–] [email protected] 3 points 8 months ago* (last edited 8 months ago) (1 children)

Also check if you have TMC drivers and if they have Stealthchop enabled, it can cause these types of issues. Especially for the extruder motor.

[–] IMALlama 2 points 8 months ago

They're TMC2209 drivers. Looking through my printer.config, I think stealthchop is disabled on all my motors. They each have this entry:

stealthchop_threshold: 0