this post was submitted on 07 Dec 2024
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submitted 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago) by [email protected] to c/3dprinting
 

I've started my next project, which is to design and print myself custom shoes. I'm gonna start with something simple: pool shoes.

Pool shoes are typically designed to be close-fitting and put as little material around the foot as possible. So they're ideal to iterate through the design of my shoes to find the perfect fit without wasting too much filament. And I need a new pair anyway...

I ordered a bunch of TPU with different Shore hardness and the rolls have arrived. So now I'm designing the shoes.

I have no experience with TPU, but a colleague at work does: he told me he tried to print a remote-control-like flexible sheet of rubber buttons that was 2mm thick, and the sheet readily delaminated when he pulled on it.

I want my pool shoes to be as thin as possible - apart at the front where I need protection. So bearing in mind what my colleague told me, I opted for a wall thickness of 2.5mm. Do you think this is enough?

As for supports, the printer I use at the moment only has one extruder head (it's not mine) so I'll have to print them out of TPU too. Is there a good strategy to limit the amount of material used and maintain structural integrity on such a large print? I'm thinking of drawing the supports myself inside the shoes to control exactly where they will be and limit wastage.

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[–] [email protected] 5 points 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago) (2 children)

for every 5c below the perfect temp for your material, the time doubles

Great info, that!

We always keep the dryer at 45C (not sure why, we just do...) I just looked it up and it looks like 65C for 8 hours is a minimum for TPU. So unless my colleague left the spool of TPU in it over the weekend - which I doubt - it would not have been enough. Unless he took the spool right out of the vacuum-sealed bag with the silicagel packet in it. I don't know. I'll ask him.

[–] [email protected] 5 points 1 week ago (2 children)

I am rapidly discovering. That spools do not seem to arrive dry.

Also, desiccant will not dry a spool. It keeps the air dry and will prevent a dry spool becoming wet. With ASA, I am learning you always need to dehydrate before first use. But am hoping using desiccant and vacuum bags will limit the time needed when reusing an open spool.

[–] PlasticExistence 5 points 1 week ago (1 children)

They will limit, but not by as much as you’d want. Plastic bags still allow moisture to pass through even when they’re airtight. I live in a swamp, so drying is a necessity before every print.

[–] [email protected] 4 points 1 week ago

Yeah UK ain't a swamp. But 50 to 60% rh is common.

So I'm thinking I may have to think that way.

[–] riodoro1 4 points 1 week ago (1 children)

Yeah. Those bags hardly do anything when the spool sits for months on a shelf.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 week ago

Yeah thanks for the bad news.

I am using these https://www.printables.com/model/50375-desiccant-silica-hygrometer-spool-container-modula

So should be able to tell. Treating the cheap, crappy meters as binary. IE, if RH% above minimum readable the bag has failed.

[–] bigredgiraffe 3 points 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago)

Just to add what others have said, the temp you dry at is as important if not more important than time and different for each type of plastic. If you don’t have it hot enough (typically near the glass transition temperature of the plastic) then the moisture is not able to escape the plastic.

Cool project as well, I have wanted to do the same!