this post was submitted on 01 Dec 2024
27 points (100.0% liked)

3DPrinting

15754 readers
122 users here now

3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.

The r/functionalprint community is now located at: or [email protected]

There are CAD communities available at: [email protected] or [email protected]

Rules

If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is ![](URL)

Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible

founded 2 years ago
MODERATORS
27
submitted 2 weeks ago* (last edited 2 weeks ago) by grue to c/3dprinting
 

I'm in the process of replacing all my single-color christmas lights with addressable RGB LEDs, but the 12mm "bullet" form factor of them is different from the traditional incandescent mini lights, the 5mm wide angle LEDs, etc.:

You'd think they'd make C6/7/9 bulb covers that attach to them, but I have yet to find any for sale, anywhere. As such, I want to 3D print some, along with 12mm bullet pixel-sized replacements for my snowflake lights:

What's some good filament I can get that will be reasonably clear and stay that way (without yellowing or getting too brittle) for several years' worth of Christmas seasons, despite UV/rain/cold exposure?

(Bonus question: anybody know a good way to model the facets in those "strawberry" lights? The C7 bulbs on Thingiverse, such as this one, are all smooth, LOL.)


Edit: by the way, to be clear (pun intended): I don't need optical clarity like the lens guy; scattering the light is fine. (In fact, doing that on purpose is kind of the point of modeling a faceted C7 bulb instead of a smooth one.) I just want to make sure that whatever part of the filament that doesn't manage to be transparent is white, not tinted some dingy color.

I do happen to have some Inland "natural" PLA laying around and did a test print in that. It's not too bad -- only a little bit yellow at the wall thickness I'm using -- but I fear for how it will hold up over time.

you are viewing a single comment's thread
view the rest of the comments
[–] [email protected] 3 points 2 weeks ago (1 children)

Oh, another thought - you could use a UV blocking clear coat such as this on your print. I still would avoid PLA though, since it might get hot in the sun. It would be important to get a complete coat with that spray, even between layer lines. You might want to think about using a clear resin if you have access to a resin printer, since it would have a much smoother finish before being coated.

[–] grue 2 points 2 weeks ago (1 children)

Yeah, I'll probably do a clear coat.

The thought of using a resin printer had crossed my mind, as well. It wouldn't work for the snowflakes -- those would be too large for any but the most gigantic resin printers -- but it would be optimal for the C7 bulbs. That said, I literally just bought a new filament printer (just an Ender 3, not a fancy Bambu or anything -- until now I was making do with a MP Mini!) and buying two printers at the same time makes my bank account sad.

Also, I'm not sure the material resin printers use is all that great at resisting UV either.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 2 weeks ago

Oh 3d printer resin is absolutely not UV resistant - resin printers use UV light to solidify the resin at each layer, and exposing a print to too much UV light after printing can cause UV burn, similar to a thermoplastic.

Coating the print in a UV resist clear coat should prevent UV light from reaching the print itself, and preventing the burn; think of it as sunscreen for your print 😉