3DPrinting
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: [email protected] or [email protected]
There are CAD communities available at: [email protected] or [email protected]
Rules
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No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
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Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
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No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
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No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
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Do not create links to reddit
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If you see an issue please flag it
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No guns
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No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is ![](URL)
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
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Changed the hot end? Like just the brass nozzle tip? Or the what?
Either way if pla isn’t printing below 220 I’d start with a pid autotune. This will let you see if the hot end is actually doing what it should.
This site:
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html
Has all the steps for tuning a printer, pid and e steps are listed. It’s worked well for me on my old Ender3 Bowden drives and many of my newer direct drive ones.
What printer do you have?
oh thanks!!! I'm looking at the e steps and will look at pid after!