3DPrinting
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: [email protected] or [email protected]
There are CAD communities available at: [email protected] or [email protected]
Rules
-
No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
-
Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
-
No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
-
No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
-
Do not create links to reddit
-
If you see an issue please flag it
-
No guns
-
No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is 
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
view the rest of the comments
I understand that, acetone attacks a lot of plastics, I've seen mixed comments about it with resin prints for smoothing, I don't see the harm with trying it on scrap material, at worst it doesn't work.
CA glue though should work, heat won't so that's my bad. Op's original idea of brushing on resin and curing it sounded possible to me.
There's also mechanical solutions, if possible op could change their parts to accept a screw, into plastic is plenty strong. or they could build in some sort of snap fit solution but both of those would require design changes and I assume op already has their parts printed.
The problem with brushing on resin is actually not that great because resin for printers will need to be cured. Unless that material is letting the UV light through, only the outer parts will get cured and hold onto the models but when you open it up again the whole middle part would be liquid resin again which stinks and is toxic.
I had this misunderstanding for quite a while myself and though that I can just weld resin party with resin together until I did that with a larger piece and it broke quite easily and seeing that the whole inside wasn't even touched at all by the UV light.
Hence also why you should shine some UV light into a hollowed model to fully cure it.
CA/superglue should do fine if applied correctly.
Totally fair, had thought maybe keeping a thin amount on the edges would enable it to cure correctly.
Definitely agree wrt to CA, you could use epoxy and other adhesives but CA is surprisingly strong, I have some cassette towers that are glued together with it and they're not going anywhere.
Not super relevant to this but for anyone using CA glue, don't use it on fibrous material and please wear nitrile gloves, it reacts exothermically with some fibres and produces acrid vapours, it's really unpleasant, it should be called out on the SDS (which you should always check, there's enough stuff in most home shops that I'd wager has special precautions for handling and use that people aren't aware of)