3DPrinting

For those who haven’t noticed before, CNC Kitchen (Stefan) puts almost all of his content online in text and picture form, not just YouTube. It’s really awesome for searchability and skimming to quickly find bits you’re interested in. I’ve come across it randomly a couple of times while researching things like foaming PLA without even realizing it’s his content, and really appreciate its existence!

I use to sell games on eBay a long time ago and I still have quite the collection. So I made these display stands for my games. Would've killed to have these back when I was selling them!

Of the carts I have shown here we have stands for

• NES Printables | Thingiverse
• SNES Printables | Thingiverse
• N64 Printables | Thingiverse
• Sega Genesis/Master System Printables | Thingiverse
• Atari 2600/7800 Printables | Thingiverse
• Atari Jaguar Printables | Thingiverse

You can also see my design files on GitHub

I am somewhat new to 3d printing and i am playing around with different filaments and print plates on my cheap ender3 v3 se.

Right now I am observing a weird adhesion-issue i have not seen before: The copper-silk filament has trouble sticking to the printplate, but only in some places of the plate.

My guess it's either some dirt/oil on the printplate. Or maybe the silk-pla has bad adhesion.

What do you think?

This printplate is this (but glued over the original printplate): https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0CL5FYHBR

The filament is this: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B09CPBRQXS

some clarification for the video: all corners of the first layer should have been rectangular. Instead some corner lost adhesion and become roundish. Here is the view from the slicer: https://imgur.com/rwA0fQW

I think I found a counterexample to the common wisdom that more walls always create a stronger part.

The pictured S shape is 1.5mm thick, so printing with 2 walls leaves no room for infill. My testing wasn't very rigorous, but it seems that the hybrid structure of walls + rectilinear infill is 10-20% more rigid than walls alone. The infill adds strength by cris-crossing between adjacent layers.

I think it's fine to include a concentric top/bottom layer, but multiple identical layers weaken the part. I also tried 0 walls (infill only) and that was garbage.

Designed in freecad, printed in black pla on an ender 3 v2 neo

the print popped off the bed near the end but it works fine 😅

The bottom hinge of my shower cabinet door is broken. Can’t buy a replacement because it’s too old. I think about design it and print in metal. Or to sawing and filling it out of a metallic block.

I‘m not sure how stable a metallic print is. The glass door is quite heavy either around 15 kilos. Do you guys have recommendations?

And do you know a metallic print service in Germany or Europe? I own just a plastic printer

Can't even take a short break from 3D designing stuff. Glad I'm switching over to FreeCAD. All I wanted was to grab some dimensions from an old model.

https://www.printables.com/model/759734-oreck-vacuum-tube-extension#preview

Replacement tubes are only about $15 but why spend that when I can just print them!

cross-posted from: https://ttrpg.network/post/4222671

Want a 3D printer in New York? Get ready for fingerprinting and a 15 day wait

Assembly Bill A8132 has been assigned a "Same As" bill in the Senate: S8586 [NYSenate.gov] [A8132 - 2023]

I don't own a gun, I never have and I don't plan to at any time in the future. But if these pass in the NYS Senate and Congress, it would be required to submit fingerprints for a background check then wait 15 days, before you could own any "COMPUTER OR COMPUTER-DRIVEN MACHINE OR DEVICE CAPABLE OF PRODUCING A THREE-DIMENSIONAL OBJECT FROM A DIGITAL MODEL."

This isn't even going to stop any crimes from happening, for pity sakes regular guns end up in criminal charges all the time, regardless of background check laws. How about some real change and effective measures, rather then virtue-signaling and theater illusion for a constituency?

Long and short of it. My bathtub's spring stopper has deteriorated. Building manager solution was to use a rubber stopper. I looked for a replacement part, couldn't find one outside of an outright replacement. So I modelled and printed this one in TPU.

It works!

EDIT: 2h30m later, the I've lost ~20mm of water in the replacements tub. Probably should increase the width of the Part to get a better seal. Nothing I can do about it tonight

EDIT: 12h later, the tub was pretty much empty. Trying again with a wider plug since I think the fit wasn't tight enough before. As for those who think a regular stopper would be better, you are right. But for the $0.16 of material and a learning opportunity for TPU I don't see it as a waste of time

Here is a Very Specific Object. For one of the nine people in the world who own a Pilot Down Force pen (I already excluded myself from the total), here's a direct fit replacement clip for when yours breaks.

Who cares, and why? Well, part of this pen's deal is that the clip is absolutely required to use it. That's because the angled rib on the clip is part of the hold-open mechanism. No clip, no write.

And now, no problem.

https://www.printables.com/model/768071-pilot-down-force-replacement-clip

I've been contemplating switching the rods that my X and Y axis travel on to linear rails instead. The current hardware is double SS rods with SG15 bearings, with an eccentric nut to adjust tension on the rods.

Unfortunately these rods are not evenly spaced on my Y-axis. They're closer together at the back than at the front, deviating with 0.5mm. So the rollers are either too tight at the front, or too loose at the back, meaning the bed wobbles a bit when using the front of the bed, or skips layers due to higher resistance on the rollers when using the back of the bed. I could lower the movement speed, but I would rather fix the actual cause of the issue.

I have some suspicion that the rollers are also not rolling smoothly on the rods and sometimes slip/skip on them instead.

And then I came across the Voron switchwire and Ender3-to-switchwire conversions. Now I'm not really willing to fully rebuild the printer as a switchwire, but changing to linear rails on Y and X axes is not a massive rebuild and considerably cheaper. I would keep the existing threaded rods for the Z-axis.

I would use the hardware I have now (motors, pulleys, belts, bed-mount, belt tensioners) with minor modifications to accommodate the rails instead of the rods currently used.

Are there any caveats to be aware of when using linear rails?

The #Razer #Junglecat is a truly great smartphone controller that has one big flaw - it supports 3 or 4 phones.

Luckily, #3dprinting (and #openscad) to the rescue!

Lo and behold, #RazerJunglecat on my #GalaxyS23Ultra!

#GalaxyS23 #Android #AndroidGaming

@3dprinting

Short side hamper handle from the top:

https://social.fbxl.net/media/c06e0e29294d96565b1b189f3bde757486e4af9d79cb92ab3387419f5a802f4b.jpg

Long side hamper handle from the bottom:

https://social.fbxl.net/media/9890d325f4126ae3d58d94435392bff91c44b5f6b557e39a97bf5e16f891b1c7.jpg

I always enjoy prints that just become part of our lives (and especially ones that let us keep using something that's going to the landfill otherwise)

The hamper has handles that break. For most people I think that'd be time to replace it. I didn't want to do that, so I designed a new handle based on the handle on the short end. This ended up being a mistake later, I'll explain then.

I printed 2 handles (the connection between the two is just to make the printing work better since it can print the two pieces as one piece, then I just snap the two apart and clean up the spot they were connected)

I used my rotary tool to remove the remnants of the original handles. I should have used the cutting tool but I had the diamond grinder so I used that. It worked fine, I was able to fully remove the old material. A quick test fit confirmed that the handle design was pretty good (I just used a tape measure for the measurements so this was a real potential problem)

I went to the long side, but realized that the design of the hamper was different lengthwise than widthwise. I removed a couple tabs that were going to block the new handle, and instead of putting it in as designed, I just put it sideways, which fit.

I put the two in and added gorilla glue. Gorilla glue requires water to foam up, so I wet all the parts. Now everything is fitted, the glue is in, and it's just drying now. I'd consider this repair a success, and I expect the strong PLA part to give the whole hamper a lot more stiffness at those parts, and there's significantly more material in these spots that break. If the other two handles break, I'll just print two more, and at that point I can't help but think that the hamper will be bulletproof.

I've been making a bunch of silly accessories for the highly popular Honeycomb Storage Wall lately, what with using the stuff to turn an architectural oddity in my closet into an EDC gadget storage space. Most of that stuff is too humdrum to bother posting here, but I'm pretty proud of this one.

Honeycomb inserts, for the removal of, nuclear option.

Here's the Printable:

https://www.printables.com/model/762739-better-insert-remover-for-honeycomb-storage-wall

Maybe it'll getcha out of a jam.

tl;dr: What is the best quality consumer 3D printer available (NOT bambu labs)?

Hello,

I'm relatively new to 3D printing (<6 months exp) and am in need of advice.

Background: I purchased a used Prusa MK3S+ as my first printer (got a good deal from a neighbor, not a print farm). I had great experiences with it for a few months. However, recently several components keep breaking one after another. I've spent ~$100 over the last month replacing parts, and now it seems the power supply and/or mainboard needs replacing. (I promise I've followed every guide and been very careful. I think I'm just unlucky.) I'm sick of fixing my printer. I just want a printer that works. I've decided it's time for me to just upgrade.

1. What is currently the best consumer level printer available? I do NOT want a Bambu Labs printer. Otherwise, I would just get the X1C. Here are some things that are important to me:

• Open source software available (even if rooting is necessary)
• Very high quality prints
• Enclosure would be nice
• The bigger the better
• Reliable
• Ideally can be made quiet for overnight prints, even if I need to turn down the speed.

Currently I'm looking at the Qidi X-Max 3 and the Creality K1C. I'm hesitant though because both are new and both brands have had QA issues on other products. I'm also looking at the Rat Rig V-Core 3.1, but I'm scared it'll be a mess of tinkering like my Prusa was.

Any input or recommendations from more experienced people would be greatly appreciated.

2. What should I do with my Prusa MK3S+? I don't want to throw it out, but I'm not sure its worth anybody's time or money if the mainboard and power supply are dead. I definitely don't wanna put any more time or money into fixing it myself.

Sorry for the long post, but I felt adding context would help specify what I'm looking for.

Thanks in advances for any replies!

----SOLVED----

Thank you to everybody for your assistance. I managed to get to where I wanted thanks to instructions provided by @dual_sport_dork

Thank you, thank you, thank you!

Not sure if anyone can help me here. I am pretty lost and confused and wouldn't mind if someone could ELI5 something for me.

I've never used a real CAD software before yesterday night and I'm struggling a bit, I tried googling things but it's just sending me deeper into a rabbit hole of things I do not understand yet.

I'm trying to make this speaker enclosure I've seen just to do something with this shitty bluetooth speaker I have, so I decided to recreate the enclosure myself.

Long story short, I realized I kinda screwed myself after disassembling the bluetooth speaker and now I need to make a 2mm deep pocket on top of the case to snap in the buttons module. I don't really feel like starting the design again from scratch.

Anyway, as you can see in the attached image, I need to make a big round pocket on top, but both side panels are separate bodies so my pocket only goes through the main body and ignores the 2 other bodies.

I can think of other ways to achieve what I want but I'd really like to figure out a way to do it from where I am right now, if possible. I've seen the term shape binder and "union" in my searches but I can't quite figure it out.

Thank you to anyone who bothered reading this lol

EDIT: For anyone who might see this and is curious about how the enclosure is performing, I finished printing the main body and assembled it to test. Am still missing the side panels and I have to design some kind of flange cover for the driver but here's what I got so far:

Ratchet speaker enclosure test

Is there a recommended nozzle size for masks and helmets? Like is 0.4mm good, or would something like 0.6mm be better since the print will be big.

I've been trying to print some things in TPU, using a fairly soft 85A TPU, and I keep having under extrusion.

I've already reduced speeds to max 25mm/s, and reduced retraction. My printer uses a direct drive extruder, and as far as I can tell, it's grabbing the filament just fine. I'm printing at 240°C, using my default 0.4mm volcano CHT brass nozzle.

And some bookmarks.

Box is a prusa slicer primitive with no infill and top. Inside the box is where I keep filament clips https://www.printables.com/model/581033-grandmas-double-sided-filament-clip

Bookmarks are https://www.printables.com/model/59453-bookmark-basic. I use them as last meters prints and give them away at the office.

This is super neat.

I am looking to purchase a 3D printer as a hobbyist, not for any commercial use. I have limited options with local 3D printers but that's good as they're mostly cheaper low end printers so I can look at them thoroughly.

When I'm comparing the different 3D printers I'm mainly looking at the following: Cost, nozzle diameter, layer height, volume, and viable filaments.

My question is, is there anything else I'm missing? Are there important things I should be considering or avoiding?

Different printers have different resolutions but for my purposes it looks like they're all highly accurate and way past what I need. Not worried about speed either. They all mention bed and nozzle temperatures but I assume they are all within the necessary range for the filaments they allow right? So does it matter?

Also, any advice for maintenance? How to make it last as long as possible any mistakes I should be wary of. Thanks.