3DPrinting

Source https://twitter.com/E3DOnline/status/1774718483990823347

lol lol

With 3D printers like the Open-5x or tool changers (e.g. Prusa XL) both, 5-axis simultaneous 3D-printing as well as hybrid manufacturing (additive followed up by subtractive), is more accessible than they ever were.

For those already venturing into this endeavor: What is your toolchain/software?

Currently, I finish the additive/3D print before running a second gcode for the subtractive part (contact surfaces, threads, ...). This is far from an efficient and powerful process.

I think it's finally time for a dryer box. Want something I can run filament out of directly to the printer. Right now considering space pi vs. Esun vs. Eibos. Ideally something I could run for just a little while before a print and during the print. Low noise also important. A decible chart for dryers would be nice if that exists. Any favorites or good ones I am not considering?

On my ender 3 I have to turn the knobs on the bottom for leveling.

I just picked up a Bambu Lab P1S and it doesn't.

Fundamentally, what is different that allows the P1S and other printers to get away without it?

I've been using a rebranded Flashforge Adventurer 3 (it's actually a Bresser Rex that I got 50% off at Aldi) and have been really happy with it. The build volume is a bit smallish, but for most of what I'm doing it's fine.

So today I boot it up and after a while, it just hangs after a minute or so. I switched it on and off, did a factory reset, tried disconnecting mains for a while, nothing helped. Also checked my DNS blocker to see if some internet requests were getting blocked.

But what did work - weirdly enough - was to deactivate wireless. It's a small nuisance copying files over via USB, but one I can live with. At least I can continue printing!

I really like the design and iteration process he goes thru.

I left a spool of eSun PLA+ beige in my Prusa MK4 with Prusa enclosure, which has sat idle since my last print about 6 weeks ago. The enclosure has a PTFE filament feed tube that runs the filament from the spool to the extruder.

Today I went to change the filament, and it broke apart in several pieces, right at the ends of the ptfe filament feed tube. The filament on the spool itself - within an inch of where it simply separated from the broken bits - I can fold over 180° tight without breaking it. Even the several ~1" lengths of broken bits are similarly ductile.

Ambient humidity is something like 15% (per my filament dryer) to 30% (per my dehumidifier, which is idle because it's winter).

Any idea why this happened? I'm curious about maybe interactions with the PETG parts that the broken pieces were close to (that's the only thing I can come up with, anyway).

I am using OrcaSlicer/BambuStudio with the P1P. Also, the hotend currently has hardened steel gears and a 0.8mm nozzle.

Am I forced to print the lego pieces slowly? Is there a setting or function that I can tweak to slow down my printer when it reaches the tiny circular geometry?

The extruder of the 3Dgence P255 3d-printer features a brush to clean the extruder gear.

Got an anycubic resin printer and I'm using their high speed resin (because it was bundled for free), and i tried to send a file using the high speed setting.

After the print it was seemed to be ok, then after i left in a bath of ethanol (IPA can't be found in stores in my country) i got all those holes.

What's the problem?

A slicer problem? The ethanol bath? The high speed resin that's not good?

When would be good times to use the organic supports and the snug supports on Prusaslicer? I know organic is good for small parts but like I can’t find anything that says what snug and organic is more optimal for

I am woking on making solar panel mounts for the roof rack of my nissan xterra from TPU, since it can take a beating. Does any one have any experience with 3d-printed TPU threads? And how much stress before it can take before a bolt rips out? Also should i use teflon thread seal so the a bolt won't come loose?

I was printing some last meters... Very last meters.

Hi guys, I've dove into the klipper scene with my Neptune 3 and am having a really odd issue.

When I first got klipper/ Fluidd set up, I tried loading the interface in my browser (Chrome) and got an all white screen. At first I thought it just failed to connect, or the process wasn't running, but then noticed the tab was named "Fluidd". I spent an hour or two reinstalling things over and over before I decided to try a different browser (Edge). It loaded up just fine. I pulled it up in Firefox and spent a while configuring it. I had to reinstall the Pi's OS a few times, but each time Fluidd came up in Firefox without issue but failed to load in chrome.

Now, suddenly, it is failing to load in Firefox, but continues to load in Edge. Below is a screenshot from my PC with all three browsers with the same address typed into the bar, with only Edge loading for some reason... Does anyone have any clue what could be causing this? It also loads on the Chrome app on my phone.

Stl is https://www.printables.com/model/498730-raspberry-pi-3-model-b-case-with-raspberry-pi-logo/

Can i use a 3D Pen with ABS to glue small (20x20mm) glass tiles onto stone surface?

Basically like a Hotgluegun just in small and with ABS instead of hotglue.

I redesigned a dog poop bag holder and printed it out. The original model was good, but I don't like flat over hangs. https://www.printables.com/model/812982-dog-poop-bag-roll-dispenser #3Dprinting

Hello there,

after a few years of being out of the hobby I am starting to get interested again after seeing that a lot of budget printers now are having all the features that my old one were missing. Direct extruder, auto bed leveling, dual z axis, stuff like that. So which one of the budget printers around 300€ would you guys suggest one should get to get started again? Elegoo Neptune 4? Creality Ender 3 V3? Anycubic Kobra 2? Sovol S06? There are so many good looking options that I am interested in your experiences and opinions. Thanks!

Very Specific Objects are a lot of fun, so here's another one.

If you find yourself purchasing a ~~cheapish Amaon RC car~~ Very Fancy DOUBLE E 1:12 Scale Large Remote Control Car Monster Trucks for Boys with Head Lights 4WD Off All Terrain RC Car Rechargeable Vehicles Xmas Gifts for Kids only for its spring perches to get broken one by one, well - I've got a solution for you.

Printables link if anyone thinks this object might apply to them.

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/13318099

A Very Specific Object. You may or may not recall from my post a couple of days ago about the surprisingly competent (and very cheap) Jin Jun Lang JL-13A that one of its points of incompetence was a design that allows the latch to strike the blade, like so:

Well, sure I put a stop to that.

This half-gram piece of plastic slots right into the handle like so:

And means the latch will only swing in a 180 degree arc such that it stops just short of the tip of the blade.

It works the other way, too.

Grab it here:

https://www.printables.com/model/811990-latch-no-strike-spacer-for-jin-jun-lang-jl-13a

Solving real world problems for a hilariously tiny number of very specific people. That's how we do around here.

Fifteen minutes in CAD (used Solid Edge CE for this one), fifteen more on the printer, and we have Liko’s hair clip ready to hot glue onto a little barrette. Drying paint and clear coat will take longer than the rest of it.

My eye's not twitching. Your eye is twitching.