TweetyDaBird

joined 1 year ago
[–] TweetyDaBird 1 points 6 months ago (1 children)

Try the Lotus 58. You get a bit more options over all.

8
Lotus 58 Glow gets USB C link (self.mechanicalkeyboards)
 

For the those interested in a budget oriented, easily DIY built, 60% keyboard with USB C instead of the ‘standard’ TRRS cable.

New version fits existing plates (and 3D Designs) and have the same options for OLED & Encoders as before. Sandwich case plates are available in black & white, both with optional ears to tent/tilt.

Shop

[–] TweetyDaBird 1 points 1 year ago

Only thing to note is to check qmk docs if the screens controller is supported by default. If it is, it’s easy. If not it takes more work.

[–] TweetyDaBird 1 points 1 year ago

Yes you can. But you have to address the rgbs as a true matrix which is a fair bit more work.

[–] TweetyDaBird 2 points 1 year ago

I just used all my budget on prototypes. Sigh.

[–] TweetyDaBird 3 points 1 year ago

And the cap on the port extends another .5-1” when in place. Which means it’s sitting below the surface of the other things as is, but add .5” and it now becomes level with a few things. And level is by far enough for the cap to grab, twist and pull out. And when it does, you’re done riding for a while.

And instead of replacing the tip of the oil cap and the outer cases, you end up with a damaged block. Much more expensive.

A far better idea is to have a tool, admittedly not in every man’s possession, but tilt the bike away, remove the cap, and thread in. Tilt the bike back and you have a little spout. Clean, simple and easy. These are available for just about every manufacturers cap size and thread.

[–] TweetyDaBird 1 points 1 year ago
[–] TweetyDaBird 21 points 1 year ago (2 children)

No, this is not asshole design. If the oil port was sticking further out, it’s gets knocked off if you lay the bike down. And then you have no oil at all, and a blown up motor.

It’s by good design the oil port is recessed. Yes it’s annoying to use a funnel, but it’s the preferable option.

[–] TweetyDaBird 18 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Well the problem with that is when you lay the bike down, the oil port gets shaved off and you lose all your oil. Don’t ask me how I know.

So yeah, it’s a PITA to use a funnel, but it’s still the preferable option.

[–] TweetyDaBird 1 points 1 year ago (2 children)

What am I missing, how is this done?

[–] TweetyDaBird 2 points 1 year ago

Lemmy.world was having mayor issues today, so not surprising if something broke.

0
submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by TweetyDaBird to c/[email protected]
 

Common core functionality:

  • Hot-swap 4x12 Ortho
  • RP2040, 4 MB flash
  • USB type C
  • Full per key RGB
  • Optional encoders on all four corners
  • Optional 1x2u & 2x2u layout

Option 1:

  • North-facing keys
  • Fits existing JJ40/BM40 cases

Option 2:

  • South-facing keys
  • Needs dedicated case design (possibly USB daughterboard)

Option 3:

  • South-facing keys, compromise on the two top row keys by the USB connector.
  • Fits existing JJ40/BM40 cases
[–] TweetyDaBird 1 points 1 year ago

Actually, I prefer liftoff

[–] TweetyDaBird 1 points 1 year ago

It should, at least as long as we are talking about choc switches on an MX spacing, or a dual footprint design, as the pin headers are spaced for that. Otherwise there will probably be interference, or very, very close to it at least.

39
submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by TweetyDaBird to c/ergomechkeyboards
 

Having always been somewhat annoyed I can't simply place a Pro Micro (or for that matter any other controller) over on top of a hot-swap socket without either turning it sideways, loosing pins, or some other creative solution.

So after trying to find other smaller controllers, but always ending up with a compromise, I finally got fed up with it, and started designing one of my own that is just large enough to fit the purpose.

RP2040 powered of course, and with a mid mount USB type C, the design is extremely low profile and fairly barebones with no status LED, no buttons, etc. making it easy and cheap to produce. And with 26 pin, there are 23 IO pins available for matrix and other things. VBUS detection for easy use with split keyboards, but beyond that stripped of anything fancy.

The boot/reset signals are available as castellated connections next to the USB, and only really meant for the first flashing/emergency flashing, as the rest would be handled by tapping a keycode to enter bootloader from within QMK/ZMK.

Edit: Added D+/- as jumpered breakouts on pins, se below. Also added a pin high/low for assigning sides on a split (useful for handwiring)

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