Hi Everyone,

This is HiexaKey. We are glad to meet you here. Today, we will introduce the first custom keyboard of the brand new G series: Hiexa G60.

I am sure everyone has childhood memories, some of which you still feel nostalgic for until today. One of the essential parts of mine is my passion and love for video games, especially handheld console games. However, for some reason, I've never been able to have a handheld game console of my own when I was a child. Now, I can combine it with the keyboard, which is also a way to make up for the regret of my childhood!

Render Gallery

Design

Front design---Combining the classic elements and the double L-shaped bars is a decoration and part of the structure, practical as well as elegant and aesthetic. There are WK, WKL, and HHKB layout options.

Side design---It adopts an upper, middle, and lower splicing method and combines it with geometric protrusions for visual features. The RGB strips are embellishments, and you can adjust the colors and brightness of RGB lighting for different atmospheres. The side of the bottom case shell utilizes cutting techniques to create a three-dimensional visual effect!

Back design---It combines game and handheld game console styles, with multiple CNC parts matching each other to make the overall style more complete!

Structure

• Ball Catch Structure---We have adopted a suitable ball catch for the keyboard case, which can be symmetrically distributed on the shell.

• Quick-release Button---We have added a convenient quick-release button to the bottom case. By pressing it, you can now quickly and easily release the ball catch system with one hand.

• Limit Stopper---It prevents scratches caused by the case's disassembly and assembly and serves as a limit for the keyboard inner.

• Magnetic Connector---It is the same as the Hiexa V series, which can simplify the assembly process.

• Brass Internal Weight---It integrates two batteries(Tri-mode) inside to make the interior flat for a better typing sound. Although the internal cannot be seen after assembly, we still designed patterns to make the overall design more perfect!

New Mounting

The G60 adopts the new spring buffer structure. Through continuous testing, we finally found the appropriate spring data. With the support of a spring, the buffer of FR4, and the silicone socks, we have obtained the spring structure we need.

Typing Sound

• Wired HS PCB
• Tri-mode HS PCB----wired, Bluetooth 5.0, and 2.4G mode.
• Support QMK/VIA
• Support multiple layouts
• Include 4400MHA capacity battery(Tri-mode only)
• Foam----PORON plate foam + IXPE foam + EPDM case foam and PET insulating foam.
• Plate----POM, FR4, ALU

Color Option and Finish

Glitter Spray-coated Case: Sand-blue, Wine Red+milky, Orange-black, Purple-white, Pink-white, Black-colorful, Red-blue, White-dark purple, White-turquoise

Anodized Case: Silver

Note: The Weight of silver is make by alu not brass,due to need to keep the color same as the case.

Specification

• Typing angle: 7°
• Front height: 19.2mm
• Front length and width: 298.6*116.5mm
• Structure
• Support PCB stabilizers

Content List

• CNC Case x 1
• L-shaped bars x 2
• Brass Weight x 1
• Brass Internal Weight x 1
• Plate x 1
• HS PCB x 1
• IXPE Foam x 1
• 3.5mm Poron Foam x 1
• EPDM Foam x 1
• PET Insulation Sheet x 1
• Footpads x 1
• 2200mAh Battery x 2 ( Only for the tri-mode）
• 2.4GHz Receiver x 1
• Silicone pack x 1
• Extra Screws pack x 1
• Carry case X 1

Price

Around USD219

Sale Method

Limited in stock and Group Buy

IC Form

Please fill out the IC form to share your thoughts with us. It means a lot to us. Thanks.

Discord

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Thank you so much for your time.

Best Regards

HiexaKey

Hello fabulous fellow keeb enthusiasts! I have this really cool custom split ergo keyboard called a Dark Matter, and I think only 10 or so were made. I love typing on it, but I'm getting double inputs and the LEDs on the left side only work intermittently. Do you have any suggestions on how I could try to fix those issues? Do you think I need to resolder both PCBs entirely, just certain key switches, and/or all the LEDs? Reseating its teensy controllers did not fix the issue, for example.

Unfortunately the person who made these is not providing support for them so I'm on my own on this one.

Here's a reddit post I made 5 years ago when I first ran into these issues:

https://old.reddit.com/r/AtomComputer/comments/9rc2ep/leds_and_doubleiinputting/

I'd appreciate any advice you can offer, thanks so much!

Keebtalk post.

Just finished my latest homebuilt board. 3-D printed case, masonite plates, box navy switches, Akko SA-L keycaps.

For this one, instead of manually hand wiring the entire matrix, I designed that part in KiCAD and sent it off to JLCPCB (minimum order quantity also means I have four more of them with no particular need). I still manually wired it to the raspberry pi pico though. There’s also a new and really user-friendly tool called “Pog” for the Python based KMK firmware. That was really nice.

after years of lurking, i finally managed to build my first split keyboard.

I randomly got recommended Hipyo Tech on YouTube one day and since have been watching his videos. I haven't got a clue about mechanical keyboards, but I have strong tastes in terms of aesthetics. Long story short, I kept checking shit out and stumbled across a keyboard he hasn't reviewed yet and I think I'm in love. But I don't know if it's any good or is even Linux compatible. So… is the ATK V75X a decent purchase? Or does it suck?

https://www.atk.store/products/atk-vxe-v75-x-mechanical-gaming-keyboard

The look I'm interested in, is the all matte black oka Gunmetal. I don't have the foggiest about the difference between the switches.

I have had wrist pain for a while now, probably stemming from years of PC gaming without actually trying to make it ergonomic, but so far I haven't found any great solutions. Alice boards have been a half measure, the Azeron is fine if it addresses specific problems you have but it didn't solve any of my problems (and tenting it makes it really, really tall), and Razer's Tartarus is just really poorly laid out. I don't have any issues with the standard keyboard layout other than CTRL being a bit of a pain, I just want it to be farther over and tented. Stumbled on the Irispad, which is just the left side of an Iris but for pretty cheap (about $110 USD) and it has been great. I wish it came by default with tenting legs or that there were some entire cases with a fixed tenting angle other than the aluminum case (which is both expensive and not the right angle for me), but I can probably work something out eventually. Or if any of you have any 3D print files or know where to find some, let me know. Overall, I'm pretty pleased.

Disclaimer: Glorious sent me these keycaps for free in exchange for me posting something somewhere about them, so I am doing that here. Having said that, they are... fine. They don't really match my aesthetic as most of my setup is white or lavender and they are missing some important options like 1U modifiers or smaller spacebars for split boards. There's also no wider ALT key for the right side of my QK75. All of these are things I have grumbled about to them before, so it's unfortunate to see they have not addressed that. I also think the black may just be dyed on? The underside is white, not black, so maybe it was easier to get white legends by dying it black instead? I am not much of a keycap collector, so I don't know what's normal for this. Anyway, if this is your aesthetic and you don't need some of the unusual sizes, it's probably a good value, but I'll probably get something else eventually.

Unless something very different comes along I don't think I'll be moving on from this keyboard.

Ryeworks M0110 hotswap keyboard with solenoid, PCB and FR4 plate both with flex cuts, Kailh box pro deep sea whale tactile(what a mouth full), staebies stabilizers and cherry profile double shot pbt keycaps.

The amount of flex, the tactiles with the solenoid, the layout, everything is exactly as I would want. I keep looking and browsing different keyboards, switches, stabilizers and keycaps but I'm just not seeing anything I feel like buying and trying.

I was using one with high profile, dark colored abs keycaps but just wasn't satisfied, tried a light color one with higher contrast caps and it was a huge improvement. I then went to a split left shift and having a function key on that side made it perfect for me.

I guess I solved my desire, which should be a good thing right?

Hi friends! I'm looking for a new set of keycaps. I want a PBT shine through cap with an SA profile or variation of the same (MSA, KSA, etc.). Maybe something with a bit of a heavier thunk.

This was an actual typing test using the QAZ keys over on the right side which is less horrible than I imagined it would be. I probably got lucky, though, because there weren't many Q's or Z's in my test.

Thomas Baart (of splitkb.com fame) dives into group buys:

Group buys are still used as a business model, but its popularity is dwindling quickly. Why is that, and is that justified?

Interesting read!

Edit: thanks everyone, I’ve installed them and everything is fine!

---

Hey community!

I got some switches with bent contacts. I can easily bend them back into shape, but I’m afraid of them possibly snapping off inside the keyboard and running it. Am I overthinking it?

The backstory is I’be got a 3x 10 unit Outemu switch bags in the mail from AliExpress to try different varieties. They were not packed well so some of them came with bent contacts. So I’m also gauging whether buying a full set would be worth it.

I am wanting a macro pad for work, but we are not allowed to install software on them and even the websites we have access to is limited. I don't want to have to use my personal computer or take the pad home whenever I want to make a more complex macro and am wondering if there are any where the keys can be configured using a configuration file stored onboard?

Group buy open now: https://www.jellykey.com/artisan-keycaps/dragons-of-eden-ethereal-runes/

• 5 designs
• Keycap sizes: 1u / 1.25u / 1.5u / 1.75u / 2u / 2.25u / 2.75u / 6.25u
• Profiles: Cherry, Droplet & SA / Art toys x77
• Price: $55
• Payment: PP / CC

This group-buy will close on 23/6/2024. Please remember that we only run group buys once, and they will not be reopened. Orders of over six keycaps will enjoy free shipping.

• Each keycap, regardless of size, comes with a handmade wooden box. Additionally, every x77 art toy is shipped in its larger x77 wooden box.
• This collection features profiles like Cherry, SA R3, and Droplet, all compatible with LED backlighting.
• Our keycaps are authentically handcrafted using resin casting and multilayer colouring. They are natural products, not 3D renders or outputs from a 3D printer.
• Plus, Jelly Key offers a one-on-one replacement for any faults attributable to our artisan team. Feel free to reach out to me if you need help.

All pictures of colourways this time are viewed here.

Thank you for joining us.

... someone linked this in a Discord server and it's just too horrible not to repost.

Would have turned the switches the other way around tho.

Time+3D printer+laser engraver=keeb

I had these cheap clone keycaps lying around, and I've been wanting to try a southpaw, as well as a no-stabs board that can accommodate sculpted keycap profiles, so here we are. Had to make a few compromises on layout to fit the keycaps I had on hand, but it's feeling pretty usable so far. Outemu dustproof green for MOAR CLICKY.

I rock a 60% which I love, but I’m learning blender and coding, lack of numpad has gotten frustrating.

Anyone got any macro pad suggestions either available now or in GB/IC?

Preferably a hot swap! Open to different sizes and formats. Was tempted by the Piketea standing desk mounted macro pad, but they appear to be sold out.

Does anyone have a Feker Alice 80 and modded it? I am asking, because from the pictures it looks like the tenting angle decreases from the middle to the outside of the keeb. Technically, it seems to be a split keeb with two PCB. Judging from the few views on the PCBs I found, these are straight. Anything else would surprised me. Many custom made keebs with strong curvature have small PCBs per key. Even a Microsoft ergonomic keyboard I could look inside, has multiple small PCBs. Still the Feker looks curved to me. So my question is: Is it curved and if yes, how did they do it?

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/15779428

If you use the right ink, the right plastic keycaps made for mechanical keyboards, and the right settings on your laser, you can effectively dye-sublimate any design you want.

https://pixelfed.social/i/web/post/699804325565108276

• Keyboard: Eliza
• Case: stacked acrylic
• Internals: handwired, Elite C v4
• Plate: Copper
• Switches: Gateron Ink Black v2
• Lube: Tribosys 3204
• Films: Kebo
• Springs: Tx Springs L 16mm 62gr
• Caps: GMK Oblivion v3.1 ASCII + GMK Oblivion v2 Git
• Weight: 786 gr

https://github.com/codybloemhard/eliza

cross-posted from: https://feddit.uk/post/12276336

Sorry for the crap photos - I just wanted to share these extra keys I added to my Lily58.

I noticed there was a gap in the matrix so I tacked a spare hot-swap socket to the pads on the back of the PCB. That worked with minimal modification to my QMK set-up. I couldn't really use it dangling off some wires so I set out to make an extension that would slot in and be retained by one of the standoffs. I don't have a laser cutter or 3D printer so I just hacked these out of a sheet of ABS plastic following a printed template and glued them up. They're nice and solid and line up really well, despite being rather rough around some of the edges.

I'm finding the 1.5U keys a bit confusing at the moment, swapping them out for 1U keys makes it a bit easier to home my thumbs. These are certainly much easier to access than the outermost keys on the lower row or the keys below the display. I'm thinking they need to be called Lily Pads.

Top: KBt RE: 66, Akko Mod 005 Middle: Zoom 65, Qazimodo Bottom: Vault 35, Daisy 40, mISO 34

Qazimodo interest check is now open!

Qazimodo is an aluminum Vial-compatible QAZ-ish keyboard with an exploded right column of 3 keys, inspired by the Vault 35 HHKB.

Details:

• Aluminum case
• Top mounted
• 3 degree typing angle
• POM switch plate (subject to change)
• STM32F072-based PCB

Additional photos

Interest check form

2PCs with a single keyboard, mouse, I wish there's something that works, I want to control 2 PC's with one keyboard, no need to switch monitors I have a dedicated monitor for each PC (Windows 10, 11).

Any recommendations? I've already tried these options:

---

• Bluetooth/Dongle

All of them have a rare error called "ghost/sticky keys" and is not a mechanical error, because when connected through USB it stops happening, the only keyboard that didn't do that was the Logitech MX KEYS S but rubber-dome KB 😔 and I really don't like it specially their bottom keys, I know that there is a Logitech MX MECHANICAL does anyone know how fast is while switching from Bluetooth devices?

• MVK Switches/HUBs

Same "sticky keys" and it takes more than 2 seconds to switch between devices

• Synergy

I don't like the idea of them sharing the devices through the same network LAN/VPN it defeats my purpose of using 2 PC's it may work for people with two OS, but not for me, I want to use 2 different networks on each PC so they won't able to see each other

• Build one

I even tried making my own one by soldering 2 USB cables into a single keyboard with a switch to control to which PC should the data be send while typing the keys... but you needed a controller actively connected to the windows devices so... it didn't work as planned

---------- new update ----------

I do NOT need/want a display port or any video switch (I use 2 monitors, one for each pc)