I may have gone a bit overboard. This is a mix of some beans, cucumbers, mini-cantaloupes, butternut squash, pumpkins, cucumbers, and tromboncino
Ah, display is the word to use. Thanks!
IMALlama
joined 1 year ago
Tell that to my very sideways baby Jade :(
I've had good luck with Pinetree seeds. They have a nice selection and decent growing tips. I've been very pleased with everything I've purchased from them.
I am less concerned about the board temp and much more curiosity about the reported temporary difference between the extruder and bed.
I totally agree that the nitehawk PCB temp is quite possibly normal.
Agree that this seems like a bigger than desired difference.
Thanks for the point of reference. I am going to be doing some measuring and math tonight to try to figure out where the source of error is and how much it might/not matter when hot.
Before nitehawk I was using the same hot end and I copied the thermistor type from my prior config while setting up. The bed and extruder were much closer to each other when cold then.
Oh, that ` was me fighting with markdown to get the code portion of the post nicely formatted. I couldn't figure out newlines and gave up.
I don't think heat is getting to the extruder via the NH. The thermistor is potted in a m3 bung that's threaded into the extruder. The extruder itself is at ambient a few mm away.
They're 104nt's. I have never calibrated a thermistor for one of my printers before, other than updating the firmware (compile marlin, config Klipper) and choosing the appropriate value.
I did dig up a datasheet for the thermistor, will have to check resistance tonight.
Was going to make the same recommendation!
It might be TPU too. I've used it to print function tires and the random deformable fidget.
You could buy a large PEI sheet in sticker form and put it directly on your glass bed. Removal with a razor shouldn't be difficult.
Is your bed heated? If yes, prints will stick well to the PEI when it's hot and pop off when it's cooled down. I have an ultrabase glass bed on my i3 clone and that's exactly how it works there. I also gave a similar experience with my Voron with a PEI coated spring steel bed.
If your bed is unheated you might still be in hard mode.
As a final thought, go hot and slow for you first layer. I usually bump my first layer by 5-10 °C, depending on the material, and print it at 30-40 mm/sec. Even though I could probably go faster I'll take consistently in my first layer.
The trident is probably a more fair comparison given that both it and the CORE One use 3x lead screws to move (and presumably level) the bed.
You can get a 300mm^3 LDO trident kit for $1,200, which appears to be the price of the Prusa. You can of course go cheaper (formbot for $690 with a V6 hot end) and more expensive (a custom BOM in a box from say West3d that starts at $1,300).
They do turn (mostly) green when you coo them, but the kids still think they're super interesting, which is a win.
Like last time, use the comments to indicate what you think!
Pros:
- Sharp
- Nice construction
- Effective VR/OIS
- Fast and accurate AF with good tracking. I've used it for a mix of birds, bugs, and youth sports. It's never failed to disappoint
- It's not white and collapses somewhat small for a longish FF lens. I like to believe the lens didn't stand out that badly when I use it to shoot youth sports. At least I had multiple parents tell me they appreciated the photos. The hood adds a decent amount of visual mass and it's probably not needed 95% of the time
- Decent pseudo macro, but only at the wide end (1:3.1 aka 0.32x)
- 500mm is 25% more reach than 400mm and is enough for my needs. I'm on e-mount and this lens combo is faster than Sony's 100-400 with a teleconverter
- Good price to performance ratio
- The lens has a focal length lock that uses a clutch like mechanism to lock the lens at any focal length. It seems a bit gimmicky, but I find it useful
- My copy appears fairly well centered, so yay
Cons:
- Stiff zoom action and somewhat front heavy when fully zoomed. There's no manual focusing this lens when it's fully zoomed unless you're using a monopod or tripod
- It's a bit heavy, but is on par for this focal length on a FF lens. If you only need 400mm, get a 400mm lens to save some heft. I use this lens exclusively hand held, but I'm also reasonably fit. I have sat on the ground and used a knee as a makeshift monopod at times though
- Somewhat slow aperture, but this also on par for the focal length. I only use this lens outdoors, so it's never been an issue. As far as consumer lenses go, there's not much faster out there at this focal length
- If you need a long lens you're going to need something longer than 500mm. There's obviously more reach here than a 400mm lens, but it's not that much more. This isn't a real con about this lens, just know what focal length you need and go from there
- No teleconverters on e-mount
Bottom line:
- If this focal length is your jam, this could be your lens
- If you don't need the reach, get something lighter and more compact
- If you don't mind walking around with a massive lens and you're on e-mount, Sony's 200-600 zoom action is really hard to beat
Vote in the comments! As a bonus, it appears to eat nectar.
Especially because they're not shy
One more pic:
I've been interested in photographing bees recently. Rather than buy a macro lens, I spent $32 on a 10mm and 16mm Meike extension tube. Photos are with an A9II + Sigma 35mm f/2, which normally offers a 0.18x magnification. All four are taken as close as the lens will focus. I'm very happy with image quality, especially given that this lens doesn't have a super flat focal plane at its minimum focal distance.
For anyone who tries an extension tube for their first time: you won't be able to focus very far in the distance (beyond about 1 foot in my case). Be ready to get up close and personal.
When I planned these beds I spaced them far enough apart to get my lawn tractor in-between them, but getting between them and the fence involved my weed whacker. As anyone with a fence has found out, maintaining the grass at the base of a fence is a pain.
I'm 3/4 of the way done with the edging. It's 10" tall with something like 6" or 7" of it buried. It does a good job of keeping grass out of our other beds, so I'm sure it will do a good job here. The downside is the most effective way of installing it is to trench first, put the edging in, and then refill the trench. If you try to use one of those big pizza peel looking things to make a narrow slide the will usually get wavy due to variation in trench depth.
I mowed to basically ground height between the beds, weed whacked around the beds, and put in a layer of that thick paper builders will use to protect flooring below the mulch. Some areas for cardboard instead, but we just didn't have enough cardboard to cover it all. Hopefully it will be enough to kill the grass and hopefully that results in less grass appearing in my raised beds.
Topped by deer and it looks like Lily beetles are a thing here now :(
The good news is that you're running Klipper, so you can tune this very easily.
Go download a first layer patch from Ellis and use his guide as a reference.
The idea is to place 10 or so on the bed and adjust your z-offset on the fly until you get it right. Once you've found the correct amount update your printer.cfg.