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Created a new replacement dust adapter for my circular saw that replaces the original one. The original didn’t fit my Nilfisk Multi II 30 shop vac. Now I don’t need to fiddle with the adapter I first made.
Sharing if someone has the same combination: https://makerworld.com/en/models/996710
Good shit. Paid Bosh $40NZD for the adapter.
How did you do the layer lines?
I tried to print one of these things once, with the layer lines perpendicular to the central axis. So just a tube standing straight up on the print bed. It didn't work at all. The shop vac was inserted in one end and the other end into the machine. However this meant the interface in between was completely unsupported. With the hose hanging on one end, as soon as I moved the machine around in use, the thing snapped off across a layer line. I tried a couple more times with thicker walls, higher temps and more infill, but the layer to layer bond just wasn't strong enough. I tried ABS and PETG, the PETG held up best but still broke within a couple of hours of use.
So I ended up ordering an injection molded part, probably glass reinforced nylon or something like that and have been using that ever since. Still bugs me, because it seemed like a perfect time for the 3D printer to shine.
**Edit: ** Found it. https://hackaday.com/2020/09/23/reforming-3d-prints-with-salt-and-heat/
There is an article out there somewhere in the ether where someone printed with 100% infill, then put the print in a glass container and packed it with salt that they had pulverized with a coffee grinder into a powder and re-melted / fused it. Their intent was for making clear parts since they were using transparent filament, but it should be great for increasing the adhesion of the layers as well. Ideally, it would become more of a monolithic plastic part than a bunch of layers.
Printed the same as you, a standing tube. I used PETG for the best layer adhesion. The walls are 3 mm thick solid. It has held up fine so far, but i haven’t had the opportunity to put heavy use on it yet.
I actually thought about it before printing it and my backup plan is to print it at 45 degrees angle with more supports if it doesn’t hold up.
Let us know how you get on!
I tried the 45 degrees method, but my print bed wasn't quite large enough to make it fit. It ended up too short and the hose kept falling out.
Will do! Planning to put some OSB boards up this weekend. Should be a fair test by going through a stack of ten boards.
I did a bunch of vacuum adapters last year and ended up just going for some stiff TPU. Solves the cracking at layer lines issue and compensates for unevenness of the vacuum.
In my experience the torque in the part can be reduced by commiting the bent nozzle part of the vacuum and connecting the hose directly. It should come apart easily. Doesn't solve the problem completely but worked well enough for me.