this post was submitted on 02 Jan 2025
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micromobility - Ebikes, scooters, longboards: Whatever floats your goat, this is micromobility

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Ebikes, bicycles, scooters, skateboards, longboards, eboards, motorcycles, skates, unicycles: Whatever floats your goat, this is all things micromobility!

"Transportation using lightweight vehicles such as bicycles or scooters, especially electric ones that may be borrowed as part of a self-service rental program in which people rent vehicles for short-term use within a town or city.

micromobility is seen as a potential solution to moving people more efficiently around cities"

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For the vast majority of winter I get by perfectly fine without studs simply by having wide tires and running so low pressures that the gauge doesn't even register. However, there's that handful of trips, especially towards the end of the winter, that I could really use the extra grip you get with studded tires. I decided to continue on the custom / diy theme with my bike mods and used 13mm self-tapping screws instead of dedicated tire studs. It's ones with a wide, flat base but I'm still considering taping over them to protect the tubes.

This is the rear wheel, I think I'm only doing the outside row on the front. I only have about 25% of the knobs studded and the increase in grip is already immense.

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[โ€“] Sterile_Technique 33 points 4 days ago* (last edited 4 days ago) (3 children)

I did this a while back - you'll have better grip on snow than you normally would on warm pavement!

If you haven't already, make sure to put a barrier between the tire and tubing. I used a strip of that thin shipping plastic (those firm bands you'll see around heavy cardboard boxes). I worked at a restaurant then, and some of the boxes delivered to us were bound in that stuff that was the same width as my tires, so I just repurposed that.

Prior to that, the heads on the screws kept popping my tubing. Even though they weren't sharp, they were grinding little holes with every tiny movement. No issue once the plastic strips were in place.

[โ€“] PixelatedSaturn 12 points 4 days ago

That's all I wanted to add! ๐Ÿ˜€ Strangely It wasn't even my tire but I borrowed it and that was my experience. I rode it down a steep mountain road and that scifi grip feeling was like nothing else. You need that second layer...

[โ€“] [email protected] 3 points 4 days ago

Yeah I've been considering putting few rounds of tape or similar on the inside of the tire to prevent the screw heads from rubbing against the tube.

[โ€“] [email protected] 3 points 4 days ago (1 children)

I don't think I've ever seen shipping straps so wide that they matched the width of a fattire tire. So for folks that don't have that available, I have to imagine that Mr Tuffy XL tire liners would also perform well in this role, since their raison d'etre is to prevent tire penetrations from reaching the inner tube. Select the width and length appropriate for your tires.

[โ€“] [email protected] 3 points 4 days ago* (last edited 4 days ago) (2 children)

I could buy a new tire for that price. I think I'm going with duct tape instead

[โ€“] YaDownWitCPP 3 points 4 days ago

I would second the Mr Tuffy Liners. I run them in my electric fat bike and have never had a puncture over the course of 4000 miles.

You only buy them once and just keep reusing them.

[โ€“] AtHeartEngineer 2 points 4 days ago (1 children)

Probably a reasonable option, butyl tape might be good too. Duct tape may not last in the cold/if it gets wet. Interested to hear an update in a few months.

[โ€“] [email protected] 1 points 4 days ago

I'll try and remember to report back in the spring and tell how it went. I've only got like 15km on this set up so far so too early to say. What I can say though is that it makes a huge difference. I first studded every 3rd pair of knobs on the inside row only and even then the difference was like a night and day. The next day I added the ones on the outside row. Studding every knob seems like a total overkill.

[โ€“] homesweethomeMrL 17 points 4 days ago (2 children)

Cool.

Unfortunately I misread it as "fartbike" and am now slightly disappointed. :)

[โ€“] YaDownWitCPP 9 points 4 days ago (1 children)

Don't worry, you can still fart on it.

[โ€“] [email protected] 2 points 4 days ago

Just lean one cheek against the saddle to create an easy opening for bike farting. Ain't nothing else like it. Gives a tiny boost too.

[โ€“] misterdoctor 6 points 4 days ago* (last edited 4 days ago)

Classic Dr Nefario move right here

[โ€“] [email protected] 11 points 4 days ago* (last edited 4 days ago) (1 children)

wait so your tires look like they have stud holes but you used screws? Screws would be more expensive local or shipped to my area plus they damage the tire and potentially the tube if you use tubes. I used a small socket driver drilled out to the diameter of this tyoe of stud for mine

1000012422

[โ€“] [email protected] 1 points 4 days ago (1 children)

Box of 500 screws was 13 euros and I didn't need to wait for them to show up in the mail. I'm not worried about damage to the tire itself. How long the tube will last has me a bit concerned.

[โ€“] [email protected] 3 points 4 days ago (1 children)

I guess things are just marked up a lot here. The thought of having to buy new tires if it were to fail has my arm hairs standing

[โ€“] [email protected] 3 points 4 days ago* (last edited 4 days ago)

I'm not the slightest worried about the tire itself. I can just take out the screws when summer comes and it's like they never were there. It's the sidewalls that give out on my tires, not the tread. I've got like 0.15 bars (2psi) pressure in them during the winter time which absolutely annihilates the sidewalls so I get about one year of use from the rear tire.

[โ€“] [email protected] 3 points 4 days ago
[โ€“] Tehdastehdas 1 points 4 days ago (1 children)

Real studs have a tungsten carbide core much harder than steel, so they last longer.

[โ€“] [email protected] 4 points 4 days ago

Yeah, that's why I used self-tapping screws as they have hardened tips. Still not as hard, but harder. Screws are also easy to replace and I'll remove them in the spring anyway.