some people use a 'drip wax' as they go but I am not able to tell if it makes a difference when I tried it. If it is beneficial it's either one of those "only an athlete could feel the performance increase" things or of benefit to the chain itself. I don't use it, though partly out of leaving it in some dumb place and losing it. Some people only recommend hot wax for dry cycling, but I just use it anyway and do my kinda silly drying.
when I get home or to work I just use the garden hose to rinse any muck down the drain (indoor wet area both ends of route so no frozen hose), bounce the bike on the tires a bit to shake off a bunch of water, then use what is essentially a glorified sriracha bottle to squirt the isopropylene directly on the chain to displace the remaining water. dry season I just go straight to isopropyl. I have thought about things like if the iso can get in and ruin the grease in the bb or ruin the paint, etc. but never really looked in to it. seems fine after doing it from the beginning of last winter to now for my bike at least, but I'm not any kind of scientist or engineer.
Immersion waxes I do whenever I feel like it's not quite necessary yet but can't hurt, plus before and after winter. I used a chain wax off amazon, forgot brand but its kinda dark grey or blackish, in a second hand slow cooker.
My procedure is heat wax, rinse chains and swish in the tub of old yellowed iso (or degreaser then rinse then iso if new), hang up chains vertically and straight or folded in half, heat gun to melt the old wax and let it drip a bit, then put in the hot wax with a bent wire hook around the center pin and swish it. I use chopsticks to wiggle all the links a bit and to detangle the chain without burning myself. After hanging it to dry if the wax looks thick or uneven I heat gun it again to smooth it and reduce the wax chain dandruff and prevent janky shifting while the excess wax is being shed off the pivots.
I do 5-8 at a time and any that seem like further use will permanently worsen them I store for the next time I have enough chains waiting to justify heating the wax. I just rinse and iso and flail it around to dry for storage and even go extra and bag it with dessicant because I have a jug for 3d printer filament anyway.
As a side note, if anyone knows any reasons I shouldn't do any of this please let me know. I have heard from one of the waxing tutorials online that long soaks in degreaser can worsen the structural integrity of the chain's metal so I keep that to a minimum already.
indeed have not seen anything like it before... are current solar panels able to handle that kind of wear and tear though? Also seems uncomfortable
nice to see more gearbox motors. hopefully this turns out to be good.
front loaders are so much better for diy maintenance and repairs. that bike looks like you would have to join 2-3 chains of the length they are typically sold in to make a replacement. you can also easily see if something falls out too.
for a regular bike, I replaced all my rusted bolts with titanium ones and aluminum for ones that are not under load, hot waxed chain with no drip wax ever and a bottle of 99% isopropyl that I use to flash off the water. I used to take the chain off and dunk it but work has infinite iso so I just use the pinhole sprayer directly on the chain. If I cared about the finish of the frame maybe I wouldn't do that but it doesn't seem to affect this one.
this, big time. The amount of times where I had migraine with the vision impairment on the day of an appointment, unable to drive and farther away than I could safely get to on my own by any means if I could manage to fumble through any to begin with, and nobody able to bring me.
then just remembering which meds go to my elderly birds, elderly grandparents, and which go to me
I know people really in to crypto and it sounds like it absolutely did
there's nothing hot about it. Its simply the tried and tested method of mount the panels in a stand don't put anything on top to block the light. some silly dude already tried floor solar panels and they lost too much performance to the protective layers alone. this looks like plain unarmoured panels directly in a high vibration location, flat against the ground where the heat off the back won't escape and dirt and snow will build up with nowhere to go because of the rails
I totally didn't get it until I saw the comments... it was so obvious in hindsight.
I didn't realize the swiss had people this dumb too
Put it next to the tracks and you don't have to stop using the tracks during the inevitable daily maintenance from being damaged by the trains in various ways, and it will still be in the middle of nowhere where nobody will ever see it. Plus wiring will be much less of a shitshow and less susceptible to damage.
oof, this one hits the hardest yet
I need a replacement for the white plastic socket that the usb/charge board plugs in to. I used hot air to pull out a drifting stick but that also heated and fell off, and of absolutely fucking course, fell into the floor air vent and went on a grand old slippy slide away.
Does anyone know the actual name for this part? Everything I have tried searching so far is apparently wrong
Saw these while looking at apartments but have no idea what they are. they were found mostly on carpet, but some were in other parts of the unit.
edit: after looking up the suggestion of carpet beetle I am fairly convinced that it is indeed what they are. I also saw a few adult beetles that look like one of the species found in photos online. thanks everyone.
So I used something like these some years ago to recover data off a phone, but I was wondering if the reverse is possible in having a bga soldered adapter with a microsd slot on top. Or if PCBs can even be soldered together like that. I've never actually checked if bga chips have raised pads or something. The purpose would be for rapidly testing custom firmware for shitty old devices that were designed to be replaced without removing the emmc to flash it separately.
I'm trying to find out what purpose this type of design serves and how they are designed but have hit a wall with knowing what to even look for.
This piece of the voron stealthburner is the only example I can think of off the top of my head but I have seen them before in some sort of fan duct or funnel thing.
So I've run mods on a bunch of different games which were downloaded and installed with the deck alone. No man's sky, lethal company, Subnautica, etc. with generally no problems but some modding software run through wine had visual bugs but the games worked as intended.
So I thought I'd try something bigger and install fallout ttw. I installed the base games from gog without issue, and MO2 ran fine with my overridden default of wine-ge. Even the ttw installer seems to work... slowly. I started it two days ago and the picture is now. I guess some mods you really are better off using a beefier computer and transferring the final product.
Dall e 3 via bing. The only way I could get it to all consistently plain rings not reminiscent of LOTR was making it Sonic's hand... with too many fingers?
I could see riding one of the fully enclosed quad or trike type, but I would miss being able to easily bring it inside. Although here it would probably just get stolen, or get run over with me in it by a big truck. The other day in the wind storm I actually got lifted from my bike by the wind and the roof add-on seems like it would just have caused the bike to go flying with me...