this post was submitted on 22 Jun 2023
23 points (100.0% liked)

3DPrinting

15915 readers
259 users here now

3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.

The r/functionalprint community is now located at: or [email protected]

There are CAD communities available at: [email protected] or [email protected]

Rules

If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is ![](URL)

Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible

founded 2 years ago
MODERATORS
 

I finally got my printer working again. I spent the whole day going through Teaching Tech's calibration steps. All the flat calibration gcode looks fine. The Benchies are another problem though. I'm printing with a 0.6mm nozzle for the first time.

On the smaller benchy I printed at 0.2 layer height, with a perimeter speed of 40mm/s at 210/60 temps. The bigger one is 110% larger and printed at 0.25 layer height, with a perimeter speed of 60mm/s at 215/60 C.

The problems are mostly manifested in the same area. Big blobs in the rear and layer shifting on the tail pipe. Large layer shifts/bulges in the center. I've never really ran into this problem before so I don't know where to start when diagnosing this.

you are viewing a single comment's thread
view the rest of the comments
[–] [email protected] 1 points 2 years ago* (last edited 2 years ago)

So, just to clarify, did you repeat the speed and temperature calibration with .6mm nozzle?

Remember you're pushing almost twice the plastic out at any given time. (.4mm nozzles are .125mm^2 in cross section, .6mm nozzles are .282mm^2) 12v heater cartridges can frequently have a hard time keeping up. If this were happening, you might be able to see some oscillations in the hot end temperature as plastic is not getting hot enough (and starts clogging the printer, letting the heater catch up... causing the splooges.)

if you have octoprint, you can see the line chart of the temperature over time. Alternatively, pronterface will do the same when connected. (pronterface is somewhat easier if you have a computer you can bring near the printer. octopi's are nice for the remote control, though.)

One solution in prusalicer is the max volumetric speed setting. What this will do is limit the maximum amount of plastic being pushed through to maintain a stable temperature. (once tuned, you can just leave it across nozzle and layer height settings. prusa will take care of the rest.)