3DPrinting
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: or [email protected]
There are CAD communities available at: [email protected] or [email protected]
Rules
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No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
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Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
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No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
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Do not create links to reddit
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If you see an issue please flag it
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No guns
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No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is ![](URL)
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So, just to clarify, did you repeat the speed and temperature calibration with .6mm nozzle?
Remember you're pushing almost twice the plastic out at any given time. (.4mm nozzles are .125mm^2 in cross section, .6mm nozzles are .282mm^2) 12v heater cartridges can frequently have a hard time keeping up. If this were happening, you might be able to see some oscillations in the hot end temperature as plastic is not getting hot enough (and starts clogging the printer, letting the heater catch up... causing the splooges.)
if you have octoprint, you can see the line chart of the temperature over time. Alternatively, pronterface will do the same when connected. (pronterface is somewhat easier if you have a computer you can bring near the printer. octopi's are nice for the remote control, though.)
One solution in prusalicer is the max volumetric speed setting. What this will do is limit the maximum amount of plastic being pushed through to maintain a stable temperature. (once tuned, you can just leave it across nozzle and layer height settings. prusa will take care of the rest.)