3DPrinting

15797 readers

366 users here now

3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.

The r/functionalprint community is now located at: or [email protected]

There are CAD communities available at: [email protected] or [email protected]

Rules

No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
Do not create links to reddit
If you see an issue please flag it
No guns
No injury gore posts

If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is ![](URL)

Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible

founded 2 years ago

MODERATORS

Where to start with a Volcano hotend? (lemmy.world)

submitted 1 year ago by Thurkeau to c/3dprinting

9 comments fedilink hide all child comments

I just changed my stock Ender 3 hotend to a Volcano to get back to a more durable printhead after wrecking my Creality Spider head and have gotten it to where I can print something monolythic (like a brick or boot dryer type thing that doesn't have much actual detail) without much issue, but printing something with any detail, such as a character piece for DnD results in an absolute whispy disaster. I'm still trying to print stock recommended speeds and stock temperatures (PLA at 200C, PETG at 240C, etc at 50 to 75mm/s) and retract from none to 9mm trying to find something that works. Nothing does so far, even when I go to playing with temps (PETG 200-260C, PLA 180-240C) Where should I set my baseline settings to be able to get close to the CR-10 head that I started with? I originally upgraded to the Spider, which is now discontinued, because of printing ASA and the CR-10 creating a lot of jams as the bowden tube degrades inside. I have also heard good things about the Volcano and was curious about them. I'm still running the stock extruder, btw. I'm betting my problem is simply that I don't know how to use this head yet, though I guess I could have gotten a dud.

you are viewing a single comment's thread
view the rest of the comments

[–] woefkardoes 1 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago)

The volcano was made for high volume prints and has a bigger melt zone. Ideally it's best for bigger nozzles, high layer hights and faster printing.

If you want to print small and detail a normal e3d or other hotend gives you better control. For smaller characters you can use a standard hotend with a 0.3mm nozzle and switch on arachnid or similar in your slicer. That will give you pretty good results provided your cooling is good.

For calibration its best to watch a few videos as its a lot to discuss over a post like this. But you are looking to do e-steps, flow-rate, temperature tower and retraction. Also know that this may change when you change the filament or speed you are printing at so try and keep things as consistent as possible.