3DPrinting
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: or [email protected]
There are CAD communities available at: [email protected] or [email protected]
Rules
-
No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
-
Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
-
No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
-
No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
-
Do not create links to reddit
-
If you see an issue please flag it
-
No guns
-
No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is 
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
view the rest of the comments
I doubt this will work with faster printing materials. 40mm/s is suuuuper slow compared to speeds that most modern printers are spitting filament with (not necessarily TPU). Unless you have a coil or something inside the tube heater so it spends longer time in there, but that probably also introduces a lot of resistance so moving the material through is notably harder.
Wonder if you could use some sort of buffer system to extend the time in the dryer
What about a pre-extruder or a set (or pultruder?) that brings it to just below the glass transition temp, but still at the original filament size? Water boils off, plastic is left!
You "just" need a longer distance inside the drying chamber. This could be achieved by coiling up the space where the filament travels through and guide hot and dry air through that space, ideally from the outlet towards the inlet. That air could maybe be pulled from the hotend cooler.
Yes, that's also what I already mentioned in the other comment...
but as I also mentioned, pulling filamennt through a coil will also introduce significantly more resistance than pulling (or pushing if using bowden) it straight, which might be an issue at high speeds and cause under extrusion.
Sorry, I completely didn't read all of your comment. You're right about resistance but then again the filament won't need to touch the enclosing coil at a large surface. In the usual bowden tubes, you have a lot of contact surface between tube and filament but this would not need to be the case in the drying coil. In the end it would all depend on the application. I'm not interested in very high speed printing (yet) because my machines are all pretty slow :).