techsupport

This video is from four years ago, but it still true to this date:

Windows Users Can't Seem to Blame Windows For Its Own Problems (clip from Destination Linux 179) - by Michael Tunnell (TuxDigital), Published on June 10, 2020

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4p_jezxzGKk

I still can't believe that there are so many users, as far as I've seen in Reddit, trying to fix the unfixable in Windows.

TechSupport Subreddit: https://www.reddit.com/r/techsupport/new/

I know this seems like two unrelated questions, so let me explain why I would like to do one of these two things: I recently got a drawing pen tablet with a display, which works fine, except that I am left handed, and my wrist keeps hitting the side buttons. The driver allows me to flip the pen inputs, but not the actual display, it just works as a regular monitor in that regard and relies on the windows settings (windows 11 in my case).

Now, I can flip it if I set it to extend my main monitor, however, I would like to be able to see what I am doing on either monitor, so I would prefer it to mirror my main monitor, just rotated 180 degrees. Some googling suggests that windows does not allow you to do this, except for a glitch involving changing the settings to extend and then back to duplicate, which I cannot manage to achieve. Does anyone know any workaround, or some extra software or such, that would allow me to do this?

Alternatively, if this cannot be done by any means, I would rather not use the extend function as is as I also often play games where moving the mouse to the edge of the screen moves the map around, and so would rather my mouse stay at an edge when reached instead of moving to the next monitor, ideally with some sort of hotkey to toggle what monitor the mouse is on. Is there a way I might achieve something like this?

EDIT: turns out this was all unnecessary, because the tablet itself has an option to do this rotation, its just in a part of the on-board display settings I didnt see before, isnt accessible from the driver UI that Ive seen, and wasnt mentioned on the tutorials that I found on the manufacturer's site that suggested windows had be used to control that rotation. Thanks anyways to everyone that tried to help me while I spent hours searching for a workaround needlessly.

I finally decided to upgrade my opnsense box after a couple of years of deferring and, in the heat of the moment, forgot to double-check I had configuration backups. After the upgrade to OPNsense 24.1.8-amd64 (FreeBSD 13.2-RELEASE-p11), there were some issues with LAN clients accessing the WAN that I solved by resetting to default settings. (I have not modified much, so it’s somewhat trivial to add back aliases and rules.)

Now, however, I am facing a problem where port forwarded services do not work. I am running Nginx Proxy Manager to handle the various web services on my LAN and the setup has served me well for years. I have made no changes to Nginx PM, to my port forwarding rules (see below), or to the individual services and their boxes. Put simply, everything was working 100% without issue until I foolishly upgraded.

Firewall: NAT: Port Forward

I suspect the issue is a double NAT issue with my godawful BGW320-505 gateway. I have had this configured to IP passthrough mode without issue for years. But, after the Opnsense upgrade (and defaults), I did notice that my interfaces display what looks to be an upstream-gateway assigned IP address. Previously, my upstream WAN gateway was the IP address of the BGW320-505 box.

IP passthrough mode

System: Gateways: Configuration

Interfaces

Despite all of the above, there seems to be some weird DNS issue/NAT issue. The strongest example I’ve uncovered of this is, from my LAN directly accessing my WAN IP. While this should show me my http-facing webserver, the request times out for a while then eventually resolves to a 404 page but–and this is the bizarre part–not before appending :440 (my webgui port for Opnsense) to the WAN IP in the address bar. (Note that this does not occur when accessing my direct IP address from exterior to the network.) I’m hoping that is the key to solving this but, after more than 15 hours spent researching this and trying various solutions available on forums/reddit/etc., I have not found anything to work.

Please help!

Call me old-fashioned, but I think 86MB is an obscenely large size for an image thumbnail. Would rather not have these automatically download as I'm on a limited data plan. Wish I had the option to substitute a static image for the thumbnail.

I realize that post may be entirely appropriate for the community to which it was submitted, but have seen plenty of animated avatar icons, etc. and just find that sort of thing distracting and would like to disable or block them if possible. Using Firefox and already running a script blocker with allowances for Lemmy server instances.

which one wold pair up better, less bottleneck and all that, a bottleneck calculator said the 560 works better, can i trust it? Is there any other gpus i should consider? (Small budget, Brazil is complicated)

(I use linux, if that changes something)

Ever since I installed an SSD and fixed my monitor, all forms of audio stopped working in my computer except for bluetooth devices. I've tried everything you can find with searching "site:reddit.com" but I've found nothing helpful. Please help, I'll try to answer any questions for more information.

Is it a physical structure of the chip or is it programming? Because how can linux ARM run on a device that used to run windows x86?

Hi guys! Hope this is the appropriate place to ask this question, but here it goes.

I have a Dell Inspiron 7520 laptop with integrated Intel and ATI graphics.

Recently I've installed Debian 12 on it, using Plasma.

Everything is fine and dandy, but there's a problem; when the system comes back from sleep, or I boot up the PC with the lid closed down, the screen never comes back. The system is running, but there is no screen.

Also, it's not just a blank screen, it does not get power, no backlight, no image on the screen if I shine a flashlight onto it and look hard.

Interrestingly, if I switch sessions to any ttys, the screen comes back and the terminal session displays fine. If I Alt+F7 back to the graphical session, the screen turns off again.

In theory, every graphics driver should be installed, I have non-free-firmware in my sources.list, all the packages that the Debian documentation mentions are installed.

Don't know, if relevant, but same on both X11 and Wayland.

Any ideas?

Thanks, guys :)

Some specs of the machine:

• CPU: Intel Core i7 (3rd Gen) 3612QM / 2.1 GHz
• GPU: Intel HD Graphics 4000 + AMD Radeon HD 7730M (switchable*)
• RAM: 16GB**

*: Not sure this switchable thingamajig works, tho. Haven't really tested, the only purpose of this machine is to start OBS and begin outputting video on NDI.

**: Though 16GB is not really supported on paper I guess and had some really funky issues before, not sure what was the real purpose, the system is rock solid since the last few OS installs.

it keeps looping in an infinite loop when i log in, even if i disable access it would begin the log in loop again, any way to fix it? also, not a issue with the browser engine. ( i mean google log in loop)

I'm not sure if this is a good place to ask this, but I couldnt find any active uBlock Origin -communities here. Please delete if this is inappropriate to ask.

This blog has an annoying dark mode toggle, that keeps following the page as you scroll. I have tried to block it by uBlock Origins picker tool, but it only allows selecting the little flame image, creating a filter:

"acoup.blog##.darkmode-toggle"

Yet there remains a partly transparent, unselectable round artifact after this, that keeps following the page like the toggle.

I know I can disable javascript on the page to make it go away, but its tedious to do it every time.

Any tips how to block that annoying little toggle?

I'm not sure when this actually started, but it's been mildly annoying. I'm not able to find any results online about what causes it, or how to fix it.

In the case of the screenshot, it appears when I click the "Health" tab of Wintoys. This error also sometimes shows up when opening the Settings app, and every time I launch Forza Horizon 5. The error always shows 3 times, one after another, then as far as I can tell nothing else happens.

From my research it has something to do with updating, but I'm not sure why it tries to load it in Horizon 5.

Steps I've taken (not in this specific order)

• Tried every built in file system/windows error checker (found no errors)

• Tried copying over an "older" version of the DLL from a previous update stack (required SYSTEM permissions, so didn't press further)

• Tried repairing using Windows Installation Media ("couldn't repair")

• Tried updating windows (no luck)

I'm trying here because I'm hoping maybe there are some helpful anecdotes that might be able to fix it! I am using a Ryzen 7 5800X, just in case this is caused by an incompatibility that I don't know about. I can provide more specs/information if needed :)

Edit: reformatted the steps I took, since it looks like it turned into a big wall of text (at least on Sync)

Edit 2: added the edit text 🤫

I got a bunch of DVDs my local library was getting rid of and there are a few very obscure ones that I would like to archive. However I am unsure how to get the data from the DVD into a shareable format what’s the easiest way to do this? Thanks!

I use Windows 10 22H2 on desktop with an Orico Bluetooth dongle. A few days ago I tested a Baseus Bluetooth dongle for my brother, ever since then, these services start having issues. I tried borrowing it back but the same thing still happens. I uninstalled both dongles drivers and reinstall only the Orico one but that didn't fix anything. I even tried changing the value in regedit to automatic but the services don't start on their own and stop after a while. Blue Support Service even straight up Disabled even though the value in regedit doesn't change Windows Troubleshoot says that it's fixed but it didn't do anything. I've tried updating Windows but I've getting error for months.

I even bought another dongle from a different brand and the problem still there. Is there a way to fix this? I have 2TB of data in the C drive and have no way to back it up so I don't want to reinstall Window.

So I have a fresh Windows 11 install on my PC; I did it to attempt to fix another issue I was having, but it turns out that was due to faulty RAM. Since I’ve been on the fresh install though, I've been encountering hard crashes that I can’t diagnose.

I’ve installed drivers (Chipset, CPU, GPU)

Updated my SSD firmware (though not on my boot drive or for my hard drives)

Updated BIOS

Reset CMOS

Have my GPU running stock and very well-cooled

I do have XMP enabled, as well as PBO on my 5900X. There was no issue with these for the year+ I was on my old Windows 11 install, or on Windows 10 before that, and I’d really prefer to leave these on since I game on this computer.

I leave my computer running with the monitors off most of the time, since it also functions as a Plex server. Recently I’ve been leaving the screens on, and caught a DPC_Watchdog_Violation blue screen which had evidently hard-crashed once it reached 100%. A post from Tom’s Hardware recommended going into Control Panel to install “Standard SATA AHCI Controller” for my SSDs, which I did, but I’m still getting the hard crashing.

I’m at a bit of a loss here; the only real common factor is that my displays are turned off when the hard crashes occur. I left them on all day yesterday with no issue, turned them off through the night, turn them back on the today, still with no issue, and then had a hard crash this afternoon during the 1 hour period I had them switched off. Also, this issue has never occurred while I’ve been using my PC, and it seems to happen at random intervals.

I’ve had issues with hard crashes in the past related to GPU temps and messing with the GPU voltage, or playing with CPU voltage, but never something like this. This didn’t happen while I was using my PC like this on the previous Windows install.

EDIT: Did 2 runs with memtest (all tests selected) and it passed both times. Also ran OCCT with the more demanding workload, and again no crashes

EDIT 2: I finally found a solution. Having tried a ton of different fixes, nothing could make the problem go away, and it resembled previous issues I’d had when components weren’t getting enough voltage. Finally I found this post, and after changing the settings in BIOS (setting Power Supply Idle Control to “Typical”, and Global C-State control to “Off”), I’ve had no further issues.

(I know Linux is better than Windows, there's a better time and place for that talk)

SPECS: OS: Windows 10 Pro N Motherboard: MSI MPG B550 Gaming Plus CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X GPU: NVidia GeForce RTX 4060 Ti RAM: 4x HyperX Fury DDR4 8GB sticks (two rated for one clock speed, the other two rated for another. As I understand it the faster sticks will just run at the speed of the lower two, and it deffo ain't causing issues cause I've tested games with just one pair or the other. Both gave me crashes)

Minidump file: https://www.mediafire.com/file/g34xykxagp29246/050524-8937-01.dmp/file

Simply put, built a custom Windows machine and it gives me BSODs on many more recent games. Deep Rock Galactic, crashes within seconds to minutes of actual gameplay (not including the hub). Remnant: From the Ashes, crashes within minutes on the overworld. Starfield, crashes within minutes to two hours. Blood West, crashes within five minutes of gameplay. Helldivers 2 works fine ingame, but once I quit the game it blue screens within seconds of returning to the desktop.

I've reinstalled drivers. I've disabled sound drivers. I've popped the computer open and reseated everything at least two or three times so far. RAM was tested using MemTest86, no issues at all. CPU temps tend not to exceed anything higher than the 70-75 range ingame (hot, but my processor is rated for up to 90 Celsius). I've reapplied thermal paste four times. I'm on my third install of Windows so far, with this being the Pro N version rather than the Pro version I tried the first two installs. I've had a bit of a go at googling the highlighted files in the Minidump file, but at this point I'm all but giving up. If the Internet can't fix this shit, I'll just sell the components or machine at a loss and stick with an older gaming laptop.

Youtube takeout has given me empty null files.. Please help!

I bought a new external monitor recently and have had the issue of an intermittent display signal

Disabling the monitor in device manager fixes the issue and the monitor works fine when disabled so it's highly likely its some weird software issue but I'd like to find a proper fix for it

I am able to get it to have constant display signal by chance sometimes without disabling the display in device manager but turning off the external display brings back the issue when I turn it back on and it reconnects

OS: Windows 11

Display: Lenovo G27QC-30 with Lenovo's drivers installed *have tried with Microsoft drivers and run into the same issue

Have already tried uninstalling and reinstalling monitor on device manager and reinstalling drivers and that hasn't fixed the issue

Also have already tried using display driver uninstaller to clean install graphics drivers

Edit:

the events tab in windows device manager for the monitor properties does show this error sometimes:

Device not started (monitor)

Device DISPLAY\LEN66F4\5&3287afbc&1&UID4352 had a problem starting.

Driver Name: oem64.inf Class Guid: {4d36e96e-e325-11ce-bfc1-08002be10318} Service: monitor Lower Filters: Upper Filters: Problem: 0x0 Problem Status: 0xC00000E5

Edit 2:

The monitor will work fine once if i restart my laptop but disabling and re=enabling in device manager causes the problem

Hi all!

I have an RX 7900 xtx AMD graphics card and by default it is enabled. In windows it is easy enough to disable through the adrenaline software but there is no such thing on Linux.

So far I've tried with both corectrl (1.3.11) and lact (0.5.4) and with lact i have been able to edit the fan curve but that only takes effect after the threshold of the zero rpm, which is annoying.

If it's of any help, my model is the sapphire vapor-X.

Thanks in advanced!!

The only one I've found is this one, but it doesn't work. It only triggers if I open the keyword interface and save it after every page load. I don't know enough to fix it.

I would occasionally like to use (wired) headphones, but 90% of the time I am fine with just hearing the audio that comes out of the crappy monitor speakers. If I plug the 3.5mm cable into the monitor's headphone jack (even without headphones attached), then no audio will come out of the speaker anymore.

It is really cumbersome to plug and unplug the cable from the monitor, because I have to pull my desk away from the wall and bend upside down to even be able to see the port where I am supposed to plug it in.

Is there some simple solution to this problem, or am I just stuck using one or the other? I have a small desk and don't really have room for external speakers.

I have a laptop with both a dGPU and iGPU. when gaming i see the nvidia dGPU in use but the Activity Monitor remains "grey". If i open the app i see it lists the game is using the dGPU. At some point the Activity Monitor will switch from grey to colored to properly indicate that the dGPU is in use.

Later, after I close the game the Activity Monitor will remain lit up, even though it's correctly showing no programs using the dGPU.

Should i just accept that this app is pretty awful?

At work I have a Windows PC. I don't have much personal experience with Windows which is why I am asking.

I want to remap the caps lock key to function as a control key. Ideally, on a per-user basis as sometimes other people use the workstation and I don't want to confuse them.

• Was able to install Auto Hot Key. A test script worked. However I couldn't find working instructions about how to do this specific remapping. Example scripts I found seem to have some conflict between v1 and v2 of AH.

• I don't have admin access however I could probably ask for something, but it would have to work immediately without a lot of fooling around. I will not be granted admin access to try a bunch of things til I find something that works.

What's the best way?

I recently encountered an error with my router that required a factory reset in order to fix. I figured since I was already resetting everything, I'd might as well reorganize my network. I switched from 192 to 10 based IPs. I got all my devices configured and everything connects to the internet fine, no hiccups anywhere, except when I try to access my Windows network shares using any device on the network. They worked prior to the reconfiguration, but I also did updates when rebooting the machines, so I don't know what the problem is. The errors I get are 0x80004005 (Unspecified error) when attempting to access \10.0.1.{deviceIP} and 0x80070035 (The network path was not found.) when attempting to access \{deviceName}. I've disabled all my firewalls, I've tried the registry changes, reconfiguring services, reconfiguring and even resetting network settings (including NetBIOS), and I'm out of ideas as to what the issue could be. The device shows up under Network on other devices, but attempting to access it hangs for a minute or two and then gives 0x80070035. FWIW, my network is configured to have 10.0.0.x be infrastructure (router and DNS), 10.0.1.x be personal devices (PCs, laptops, phones, anything I own, etc.), and 10.0.2.x is DHCP for visiting/guest devices or anything I can't configure myself.

Any help is appreciated.

im trying to wrap up a minor process (small dir tree of crap) into a zip file for use by others, but microsoft has decided zips shouldnt include empty folders? wtf?

has it always been this way?

Sorry for the title, didn’t know how to succinctly describe it. Here goes.

I have my gmail set up in my iOS device using the default app. Whenever a new email comes in, the number of new emails in the inbox would appear very briefly appear as 2, instead of 1.

After maybe a second or less, that number goes to 1, which is the correct number. It’s usually very quick so I don’t have a recording.

Has anyone encountered this? Anyone knows why it happens?

Thanks!