submitted 2 days ago by [email protected] to c/techsupport

My partner and I both have digital cameras. Hers is a Canon EOS Rebel-T5, and mine is an Olympus Tough TG-6. Both cameras will create subdirectories within the /DCIM/ folder, formatted as 10*CANON or 10*OLYMP. We've shared SD cards on occasion, and neither camera has had any issues with just creating a new directory to match the current camera; e.g., one SD has /DCIM/100CANON ... /DCIM/101OLYMP, etc.

There is a highly unusual issue going on with one of the cards. It is a 64 GB [pro]master, Code 2145. It is well-used, with probably over 10,000 photos on it from my Olympus (that are backed up), but there is still plenty of room for pictures. When using this card in particular in her Canon, we have noticed that it writes photos without error, but retrieving and reading the photos on the display is terribly laggy and the camera expends a lot of energy "thinking" with the red indicator light. However, with patience, we are able to view any photos that are produced with this camera. The "photo#/total" display at top (e.g. 4/100; 5/8979) is really screwy and the second number changes often, perhaps as it reads from different directories.


When I load this SD into my computer, I am only able to recognize Olympus subdirectories. There is no evidence of a Canon writing anything onto this disk, not even any of the other data directories it will normally create outside of /DCIM/. Entering the SD through CLI and using commands like /ls -a prove fruitless. Where on earth are these photos? What other options do I have in trying to attain these images?

How to follow CFR by RSS? (self.techsupport)
submitted 2 days ago by MasterPain to c/techsupport
submitted 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago) by [email protected] to c/techsupport

I was distrohopping because I was getting sick of windows 10 and installed pop os on my secondary SSD and I started getting audio crackling issues. Then I realized even back on the Windows 10 SSD I had the same audio crackling issue. I formatted Pop OS to Bazzite and it persists. Formatted the Windows 10 SSD to Windows 11 and it persists. Now I have permanent audio crackling issues whenever I use the speakers on my monitor (headphones are fine). I've tried everything found online: changing the affinity in audiodg.exe one by one, changing the hz on the speakers, uninstalled sound drivers from device manager, tried using EasyEffects on the linux OSes. nothing helps other than restarting my pc and enjoying crackling free audio for about 10 minutes before it starts again :(

Other people had a similar issue on PopOS and fixed it by changing the kernel they had installed but I tried that and it didnt help and iirc bazzite has a more updated kernel than popOS and that didn't help either

This is my hardware:

submitted 1 week ago by [email protected] to c/techsupport

I got a new Mobo. Windows installer doesn't see the nvme drive. For some reason the bios has a million settings and are all alien to me.

I took a lot of photos of all the settings, so many unknown entries

The motherboard is from an unknown Chinese OEM and it's using a laptop core i7 but in a itx form factor. I have no idea of the brand, really. The box just says "motherboard" and there's no silkscreen on the PCB (it was very fun guessing which pins were for the front panel). No user manual was included. The bios it says "version: default string"

I hate when OEMs lock down bios settings but here is the opposite, they enabled everything

submitted 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago) by MaximilianKohler to c/techsupport

Submitting from a lemmy.world account to a mander.xyz community.

I've tried it multiple times, and this submission to [email protected] worked without issue.

submitted 1 week ago by [email protected] to c/techsupport

There are some youtube channels where I only want to see updates to specific playlists. Like the English playlist from the CCC, or only Yahtzee videos from second wind, etc.

What is the best way to managed playlists and see the new videos without subscribing to a whole noisy channel?

FreeTube as a open issue for this idea: https://github.com/FreeTubeApp/FreeTube/issues/312

submitted 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago) by [email protected] to c/techsupport

Title. I dual-boot Windows and Linux. I always saw people making "WINDOWS DELETED MY LINUX BOOTLOADER OMGOMG" posts and it had never happened to me. Now, the opposite has happened. I switched from EndeavourOS to OpenSUSE and now my windows install is no longer selectable on boot.

I keep Windows in a separate drive entirely, so instead of using grub, I use the EFI's boot-select menu thingamafuck (look I don't know jargon okay?) to choose Windows when I need it.

Well today it's not there. Only the Linux entries show up. The Windows partition itself seems to be in good order, like, I can access it from within Linux no problem.

But yeah it doesn't show up on my EFI selector thingie. I imagine I could get the EFI Shell going, but I have no idea how to use THAT either.

submitted 2 weeks ago by [email protected] to c/techsupport

This is the same issue as this and this.

Does anyone have a solution that allows me to use the full stereo? (not just the half stereo that AliCheese mentioned)

I have had this issue before, but have not found a fix that allows me to use stereo.

Things I have tried:

  • Unplugging it and plugging it back in again
  • Using other audio ports
  • Restarting computer
  • Disabling all sound effects in sound properties and Realtek Audio Manager
  • Uninstalling Realtek Audio Manager
submitted 2 weeks ago by Fuck_u_spez_ to c/techsupport

I need a specific build of Office 2019 to fix a conflict with another piece of software. That vendor is pointing the finger at Microsoft, and of course, MS is pointing the finger back at them. What I know for certain is that Version 2402 (Build 17328.20184) is the most recent working version. What I don't know is where to find that installer. I installed a much earlier build and tried to update it manually from the MS Update Catalog but the updates would not install, and that version has a completely different bug that makes it unable to print from Outlook.

submitted 2 weeks ago by [email protected] to c/techsupport

Hello everyone, is there any cable that I can buy that is female usb c to male usb c? I have a steam deck dock and would like to be able to also plug my laptop in to it by use of a usb c extension cable that can carry video. Does such a thing exist?

submitted 3 weeks ago by [email protected] to c/techsupport

I know that with the recent changes to the Twitter APIs it is extremely possible that if this was possible, it is no longer possible, or unlikely, but still as I recall with the Reddit API changes the third-party apps were going to stop working and although I don't use Reddit, I have seen that many Reddit apps still update and here on Lemmy there are those communities that are a mirror, although I guess they are an RSS.

Also, I want to clarify that I know I don't need a Mastodon account to follow an account there, but I wanted to explain it in a way that was easier to understand.

submitted 3 weeks ago* (last edited 3 weeks ago) by HKPiax to c/techsupport

Hi, the issue I’m having is pretty straightforward and I don’t want to bore you:

I have a Mac and a Win11 PC on the same private network. I have a folder on Win11 that I want to share with Mac, and the other way around.

I’ve set up a new local user on the Win11 machine with accesso to that folder only (for security reasons). It has a user and a password, and when I try to connect to a new “server” on MacOS (cmd+k) and I input the folder path, I then log in with that user’s credentials just fine.

The issue is with the Mac folder shared on Win11: I’ve enabled SMB file sharing on the Mac and given the permissions on that folder to a “sharing only” account I’ve created locally. When on Win11 I try to connect to the Mac (I have to input the Mac’s IP, using “smb://…” doesn’t work), it asks for the credentials and it always says the “network password” is incorrect. The weird thing is, if I input the main MacOS account’s credentials I read the folder just fine (and everything else if course).

What am I doing wrong?

submitted 4 weeks ago* (last edited 3 weeks ago) by [email protected] to c/techsupport

My neighbor was having issues with his PC freezing up during games, saying his CPU fan specifically) would ramp up. He then bought new parts and asked me to build him a new PC to replace it which I did (we exchange handiwork). Now he's wanting to give his old parts to a friend of his who had an even older PC. So I've got another build which was mostly parts from his old one with the exception of a new power supply and graphics card.

At first, 3/4 of the time I wouldn't get any video. I noticed he had two different sets of memory so I stress tested each set individually and in each of the DIMM slots. It all tested fine and I was getting video more consistently when only using a single set. I was using stress to test both the CPU and memory and never came across any freezing or other issues.

I've tried going into BIOS to see if any settings in there were causing issues with the mixed memory but regardless of the configuration or using the on-board graphics, I get no video in BIOS.

Now, regardless of configuration, I'm getting no video in BIOS or an OS 100% of the time.

CPU: i7-9700F
Motherboard: ASRock B364 Pro4
GPU: RTX 3070
Memory: 2x 16GB DDR4-3200 (CMW32GX4M2E3200C16) + 2x 8GB DDR4-3000 (CMW16X4M2C3000C15)

submitted 4 weeks ago* (last edited 4 weeks ago) by Sterile_Technique to c/techsupport

Print-to-PDF is locked down. There's a print option as part of the software, but it slaps my student email diagonally across every single page, which makes reading it kind of obnoxious.

I don't intend to distribute (which I'm assuming is why it's locked up so tight), but needing to log in and navigate to the text is getting cumbersome, so I'm hoping to just save a chapter at a time to my phone and whip that out to tackle my reading assignments.

Also hoping to preserve images, since a lot of the info is charts and such, so PDF seems like the best target, but open to any ideas.

...I suppose I could just suck it up and deal with their annoying software, but at this point I hate to admit defeat lol.

submitted 4 weeks ago* (last edited 4 weeks ago) by [email protected] to c/techsupport

The folders are accessible on every other device and SMB is enabled on the host machine. I'm trying to access hundreds of gigabytes of game roms via Retroarch when I'm out of the country so I'd appreciate an easier method if one exists, but I've ran through every troubleshooting guide I can find online, but the share folders still don't exist according to my phone. I've also tried 5 or 6 different file manager apps, but they all say the same thing

If someone sees this in the distant future, I'm still looking for a solution so please reach out.

submitted 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) by [email protected] to c/techsupport

Hello everyone! I encountered a weird bug yesterday that I wanted to run by you guys to (hopefully) find a solution. I recorded a short (10s) video on my pixel 8. Then I sent it to my wife's iPhone via signal. She then tried to send it to her family via imessage and upload it to social media, but was unable to do anything with it besides watch it. The cheap solution ended up being sending the video over MMS, but as you know that compresses the video to JPEG hell. Have any of you ran into this bug and/or have solutions/workarounds that don't completely destroy the quality like MMS?

Edit 1: bonus points for solutions which check the WAF box!

submitted 1 month ago by [email protected] to c/techsupport

The power supply on my XPS 8930 gave up the ghost, so I replaced it with a Corsair CX750M (probably not relevant).

While I was at it, I also replaced the case with a Thermaltake CTE T500 (probably relevant).

I connected the power switch to pins 6 and 8 on the front panel connector, following the diagram at XPS 8930, GPU and CPU Liquid Cooler, PSU, Case Swap, Upgrade.

Things work as expected: I can power the computer on and off with the power button, all cool.

BUT: Every time the computer boots, I get an error message from SupportAssist during POST: "[...] Alert! Power Button Cable failure". I click Continue, and everything is peachy.

Does anyone know how I can get rid of this message? Did the power button in the original case know some secret handshake that the new one doesn't?

At this point, I would be OK with disabling the SupportAssist self check altogether. I don't need any SupportAssistance to know that the machine is getting a little cranky.

submitted 1 month ago by Moshpirit to c/techsupport

Context: I need to have installed a a program called Smowl, which is a closed-source app that records EVERYTHING to make sure you don't do weird stuff while doing an online exam. To avoid installing such monstrosity on my laptop, and since virtualbox is probably banned, I wanted to use a persistent bootable device to have the program installed and know that everything works well in a few days.

Tails and booting software: I tried with Tails, but the software doesn't work there because it's too private. I also tried using other tools other than ImageWriter or dd to make other distros persistent, but if I use Unetbootin the distro doesn't get recognized when booting the laptop, and I the other tool that I found to have similar powers is mkusb, but it's no longer maintained and it cannot be installed on Arch (there's a compiling issue).

MX Linux: I also tried MX Linux, but I don't know how to make it persistent in the first place because I followed all the steps but I don't get it to show me the last session to boot to or the "text menu" option of this guide. I tried this several times, with two pen drives (8GiB both), but I got no luck, even when using MX Linux live USB tool to make the other pen drive bootable. What am I missing?

submitted 1 month ago* (last edited 3 weeks ago) by Amaterasu to c/techsupport

Hey, I saw the post last week about a quest for a MMORPG mouse and it inspired me to ask for help as well. My needs are similar but not exactly the same from the OP last week:

  1. Gaming MMORPGs and FPS (like everyone I guess)
  2. I want specific 3 or 4 buttons additional to the front buttons, placed on the sides
  3. Under 100g
  4. Length up to 127mm (small hands)
  5. No thumb rest is probably best.

It doesn't seem that we have many new mouse models with those requirements which is a bummer. I identified some ambidextrous mouses distributing the buttons which I think I could perhaps make it work but not sure. Here are the ones that I found. PLEASE COMMENT IF I SHOULD REMOVE ONE OF THOSE FROM MY LIST OF CONTENDERS AND WHAT WOULD YOU PICK:

a. ~~Razer Viper Ultimate~~ -- disqualified because is Razer

b. ~~Logitech G PRO~~ -- 60 hours battery may not be enough for today standard

c. Pulsar X2A

d. ~~Razer Viper 8khz~~ -- disqualified because is Razer

e. ~~Alienware Tri-Mode~~ -- side buttons can't be disabled if desired

f. ~~MMOPRO~~ -- mouse sensor not optimal

g. ~~Machenike L8 Pro~~ -- not sure if it has a third button on the sides

h. Edifier Hecate G4M Pro

i. Kone XP Air -- looks to be what I'm looking -- at 126mm it may be too large for short hands (in another context this sentence would be quite odd)

j. ~~Pwnage~~ -- having to adopt a criteria this one uses 3370 sensor and the newest mouses are using the 3395 sensor. So, keeping the mouses with 3389 and 3395 sensor in this list. It also features only 38mm of height and it may not be ergonomic to use the buttons on the right side

k. ~~Ducky Feather~~ -- this has option to choose between Kailh 8.0, Huano Blue and 60M Switches, however they doesn't seem swapable and given that it is not wireless it may be better to cut off

l. Lenovo Legion M7 -- at 127mm it may be too large for small hands (in another context this sentence would be quite odd)

m. Keychron M6

n. Glorious Model l 2 -- probably the winner. Although, I will need to find a way to either accept the thumb rest or get rid of it

Final considerations, I don't care if is wired or not. I see myself almost all the time with the mouse wired. Although would be nice to be USB C featured for a paracord cable.

I need most help to understand those techinical differences that I'm not very familiar.

Thank you for the inputs

EDIT: I gave up. The mouse that I'm looking was not created yet. I decided to go with a light regular 2 side buttons mouse.

submitted 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) by [email protected] to c/techsupport

So, i use linux, i don't have any windows install on my disk, but someone wants me to install windows on their HDD, so, if i plug said HDD on one of my sata ports and try to install windows 10 on it, will it mess with my linux boot? if yes, is there a way to prevent that without physically disconnecting my main drive? (my main is an nvme ssd, that's why I'd rather not remove it, already suffered enough trying to screw that in ther

Edit: Fortunally i got to convince the person to bring their whole PC, so now i won't have to deal with this anymore! Thank you very much for all the answers everyone

submitted 1 month ago by parachute to c/techsupport


I have a WD 2TB passport that is making this weird clicking sound. I've had it for a while now. Is it time to get a new drive?


submitted 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) by Moshpirit to c/techsupport

I created this script at ~/.config/i3/scripts/qt6ct.sh to set QT_QPA_PLATFORMTHEME depending on whether I'm using Plasma or I3wm:


if [ "$CURRENT_DESKTOP" = "i3" ]; then
    export QT_QPA_PLATFORMTHEME="qt5ct"

elif [ "$CURRENT_DESKTOP" = "KDE" ]; then
    # Si estás usando Plasma (KDE), comentar la línea que exporta la variable
    echo "Gestor de ventanas no es i3 ni kwin: $CURRENT_DESKTOP"


I created an autostart program and added this to my i3 config file

exec ~/.config/i3/scripts/qt6ct.sh
exec source ~/.config/i3/scripts/qt6ct.sh

I don't know what's wrong with it, but if I run it on a terminal, I get this (screenshot):

➤ ~/.config/i3/scripts/qt6ct.sh 

So this script doesn't really export anything at all.

I have searched on every file that I thought could be exporting it as a null value (~/.bashrc, ~/.profile, ~/.bash_profile, ~/.xinitrc, ~/.Xresources, /etc/environment, /root/.profile, /root/.bashrc), but everything looks fine (no QT_QPA_PLATFORMTHEME anywhere, or is commented).


The only thing we'll need in.xprofile is sourcing the script:


if [[ "$CURRENT_DESKTOP" = "i3" ]]; then
    export QT_QPA_PLATFORMTHEME="qt5ct"
    export QT_SCREEN_SCALE_FACTORS=1.5 # 1.5
elif [[ "$CURRENT_DESKTOP" = "KDE" ]]; then

    echo "Gestor de ventanas no es i3 ni kwin: $CURRENT_DESKTOP"

submitted 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) by Sterile_Technique to c/techsupport

Like in the Home tab, the "Styles" seems like exactly what I need, but it applies the changes to the entire paragraph vs just the selected text.

Pic below of what I'm trying to do:

Just started nursing school (woo!!) and I'm trying to make review guides for my class. There are like 50 of those questions for every chapter, ~10 chapters for every unit exam, and a unit exam every couple of weeks. ...for the next two years. >_>

There are a metric FUCK TON of these questions, so I'm trying to make them as easy on the eyes as possible so that we can review them as quickly and effortlessly as possible.

Anywho, in the pic, question 3 is the format I'm shooting for - letter answers bolded, red, and caps; answer key tucked away with right side alignment, small, light grey, and italicized so we don't prematurely see the answer as we're scrolling.

Question 4 is how the text appears in the textbook, which makes it hard to scroll though them without seeing the answer prior to considering all the options, and seeing the answer early kinda sabotages actually learning the content.

The ideal study scenario being read the question, discuss which answer we think is right and why, check our answer against the grey text, and move on.

I know you can change formating with find and replace, but then the entire document is filled with sentences that end with things like "fractured bonE." so afaik the best approach is to just ctrl+click/drag to select the letters, then then click the bold/red/Aa and move on to the next one and repeat.

Any tips to automate this would be outstanding, since there will literally be thousands of these throughout the entire program.

Thank you!!

submitted 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) by JusticeForPorygon to c/techsupport

My Razer Naga Pro died and I'm absolutely not buying another one for what it costs. But I also can't seem to find a replacement with the same sort of layout this one had. I'll link a picture, but I'm essentially looking for a mouse that has a lot of side buttons but still has a place for me to rest my thumb without having to worry about accidentally pressing buttons. I don't really like 12 button MMO style mice for this reason, as I constantly feel like I'm going to accidentally press a button. Any suggestions are appreciated.

Edit: I also want to note that I'm right handed, and I hate the feel of ambidextrous mice. I like being able to lay my hand on the mouse and know exactly where my fingers are supposed to go.

submitted 1 month ago by ByteMe to c/techsupport

Hello everyone,

I need your help. For the past couple of months, windows hello - face is broken for me. I can't set it up. The setup process crashes, sometimes it says my camera is not available. My camera works fine though. I have sent to the feedback hub but I get no response. Any ideas? Thanks!

view more: next ›


2217 readers
1 users here now

The Lemmy community will help you with your tech problems and questions about anything here. Do not be shy, we will try to help you.

If something works or if you find a solution to your problem let us know it will be greatly apreciated.

Rules: instance rules + stay on topic

Partnered communities:

You Should Know


Software gore


founded 10 months ago