techsupport

Any help rolling it back? I really don't like it at all.

I know most replies here will likely encourage Linux and I get it. If it were up to me it'd be done. The problem is I work from home and are bound to certain limitations.

So to the problem at hand, I hope to get some insight on:

The two culprits are bitlocker and Window's gaming service/overlay not sure what actual name of it is without having the error message in front of me. I'm not nearly as irritated at the gaming issue as I am with the bitlocker issue because the bitlocker is causing random crashes forcing PC reboots.

Where I find my hands tied is for both scenarios, I have gone thru Windows Services, Gpedit, regedit, and admin powershell command inputs that all show have successfully terminated the bitlocker and gamepad functions from even being able to be initiated.

As for bitlocker specifically, I have never enabled, used, activated or even owned a version of Windows 11 that provided access to bitlocker services.

I didn't know it even existed before the Windows 11 24h2 update. Neither issue was present before the update. Even went thru the steps back stepping the updates installed to before the 24h2 update.

So by all intensive purposes (lol) the PC is running on a Windows build before the update fucked it up, is running without any group permission, active services, or regestry settings that should allow bitlocker or gamebar to launch.

Yet here I am. Everytime I launch a game I have a popup that informs me there are no available apps to open the gamebar.

As well as almost every other day no matter what I'm doing or what I am in the middle of, my PC just shuts down and reboots out of fuckin nowhere.

When I check the event viewer, the "critical" error message just says "The system rebooted without cleanly shutting down first. This error could be caused if the system stopped responding, crashed, or lost power suddenly."

The two warning error messages that occur almost in conjunction to the reboot critical message are two identical error messages that state, "Bitlocker timed out attempting to enumerate bands during volume discovery on this hardware encrypting drive."

Before i get to my questions, I would like to add I am also entirely exhausted of reaching out to microsoft for help. They are fucking useless and each ticket I've opened with them results in a redundant cycle that ends nowhere at the cost of hrs of my time sitting on hold or following their recommended troubleshooting suggestions that are just redundant to the previous attempts to help.

My specific questions are as follows:

1.0 Everything I google regarding bitlocker just returns bugs people experiencing from when the are trying to get bitlocker to work properly and not much for scenarios that want it removed completely from a system. Does anyone know of any recommened resources I can do some more learning on the matter?

2.0 Am I wrong to think that turning off, disabling and removing the means for these operations to launch/initiate/run in the background will also prevent the system from attempting to initiate those operations?

3.1 Potential work around I thought to try, any feedback is appreciated, if either of those event viewer error messages are actually telling me that I must install a bitlocker driver for the service to properly launch and the issue will work itself out.

3.2 The fallback plan is to reboot my approach completely and convert Windows 11 back to Windows 10. Have never done this extreme of a fix so any feedback is gratefully recieved. Does anyone have any goto resources for this procedure to help me keep from anything falling thru the cracks.

4.0 Last couple notes if it helps, another bug that I noticed but fixed is my one screen's taskbar does this wierd shit where the whole thing gets super fucking tiny and just floats in the middle of the lower screen. The issue only stopped when I reinstalled the back ported Windows 11 24h1 version or whatever it's called. Since being under the previous update version the taskbar glitch has gone away. Went thru 3 hrs of troubleshooting with Microsoft for this one and despite their most urgent attempts to prove otherwise, we came to the conclusion it was not the hardware, monitors or gou driver. It only happened to whatever monitor was assigned by the system to be considered monitor "1."

Nothing here is life or death so I'm not overly worried but at the same time I'd love to get some insight into either end of this shitshow but to reiterate, fixing the bitlocker shit is enemy of the state numero uno.

Any and all input to follow will be so appreciated. Thank you to anyone in advance who made it this far thru this rant and replies. To them especially but also to anyone else that pops in, I'd also like to wish you all a wonderful fucking holiday season!

So, I have Crucial MX500 SSD, and on their spec sheet, the SSD Endurance TBW is 180TB

Crystal Disk Info says the health is at 33% Health, despite Total Host Writes being 54039 GB (30% of specified SSD endurance TBW of 180TB)

So is their specified endurance wrong, is the Total Host Writes data in Crystal Disk Info misleading or wrong, or is there more things that go into determining the "health" of an SSD besides Total Bytes Written? Or could it be that I mistreated the SSD causing its health to get worse?

Hey everyone,

I've got a bunch of weird stuff happening with my computer (both in Linux Mint and Windows 10) and hoping you could help me figure out if it's a software issue or if it's a hardware issue then which component is borked.

The fact that both systems are having issues is making me think it's a hardware issue? Both OS's are on different drives, not dual booting from the same disk.

Linux issues:

Distro: Mint 20.2

Kernel: 5.4.0-202-generic

CPU: Intel i7-7700k

GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1070

Memory: 16GB

It started with Firefox crashing randomly and now the display is forced at a weird resolution and it doesn't recognize the second attached screen. It has no option to change resolution in GUI and the xrandr -q output doesn't list any devices and talks about failing to get size of gamma for output default. I'm trying some stack overflow and arch wiki guides about adding manual selections to xrandr but nothing is working. Firefox seems to be stable now but unsure. I tried NVIDIA guides about making sure blacklist file doesn't exist and forcing non-wayland sessions but that didn't work; the NVIDIA X Server Settings GUI also boots completely blank.

xrandr output:

{22:20}-{xxx}-{~}$: xrandr -q --verbose xrandr: Failed to get size of gamma for output default Screen 0: minimum 1024 x 768, current 1024 x 768, maximum 1024 x 768 default connected primary 1024x768+0+0 (0x528) normal (normal) 0mm x 0mm Identifier: 0x527 Timestamp: 45214 Subpixel: unknown Clones: CRTC: 0 CRTCs: 0 Transform: 1.000000 0.000000 0.000000 0.000000 1.000000 0.000000 0.000000 0.000000 1.000000 filter: _MUTTER_PRESENTATION_OUTPUT: 0 non-desktop: 0 supported: 0, 1 1024x768 (0x528) 59.769MHz *current h: width 1024 start 0 end 0 total 1024 skew 0 clock 58.37KHz v: height 768 start 0 end 0 total 768 clock 76.00Hz 1920x1080_60.00 (0x545) 173.000MHz -HSync +VSync h: width 1920 start 2048 end 2248 total 2576 skew 0 clock 67.16KHz v: height 1080 start 1083 end 1088 total 1120 clock 59.96Hz

I do have timeshift backups for a few days ago but seeing as I'm not sure if this may be hardware related I'm not sure whether to go down that path.

Windows 10 issues:

Before today it went BSOD pretty quickly after logging in (safemode works fine) with errors such as 'kmode exception not handled' and 'bad pool caller'. I've since updated the nvidia drivers by booting in safemode and now the screen is black with the bottom menu flickering in and out (with no apps, just the start button) on both screens.

It seems like the issue is to do with the graphics card but, again, I'm not sure if it's something I can fix by typing a magic spell or two, or if I need to buy a new card.

Appreciate any responses, thanks!

(If this question is inappropriate or better suited elsewhere, please let me know, and I can remove it.)

I have a mostly personally digitized media library on external USB storage that I am looking for a convenient and effective way to watch in 4K on my home non-smart television. I'm not interested in solutions for accessing streaming pirated content, unlocking subscription-based services, or anything of that nature; I'm just looking for a way to connect a USB-C external drive with loose media content (largely H.265-based 4K video and FLAC audio files) at the best quality on my home television.

I understand that Android TV boxes are available cheaply on Amazon and might be a viable solution, but this video from Linus suggests these can be malware nightmares, so I'm wary of trying any of those. Linus went on to make a follow-up video, but either his suggestions for my use cases were unclear, or I am not savvy enough to have understood them. For example, he mentions in the follow-up video that the Google Chromecast might be specifically bad for this due to the bottlenecking of the USB 2.0-based transfer speed, but I don't think he ever brings up the topic directly again or suggests which of the other options presented is particularly good for external storage media file playback.

If this option can also replace my current Amazon Fire Stick as my go-to media center option with access to the typical streamers (YouTube, Netflix, Crunchyroll, etc.), that would be especially incredible.

If this option comes with some kind of software/media library solution that would allow me to track watched progress in my personal media library in a way similar to how streaming services do, that would be double especially incredible.

And hey, if there's some way I could connect a controller to play some retro emulated games on it too, that would be amazing, but that's absolutely not a necessary component.

I don't have a high budget, so ideally, I'd like to keep costs in or around $50 if possible, but if that's unrealistic, I'd appreciate being told so I can adjust my expectations.

I'd say I'm a "high-level ignorant" or "low-level savvy" consumer; I feel like I'm not technologically illiterate but definitely would not call myself truly savvy or skilled. I've put PCs together from purchased components but would have no idea how to build or repair an individual component itself. I'm up for learning if the task is approachable, so if the best solution is something like a custom-built Raspberry Pi, I'm not opposed to the idea, but I have no real knowledge going into this and am more interested in a solution to the problem at hand than the edification that might come with such a project. So basically, if we're talking about a simple "build a media center in a box" sort of Pi kit, I might be able to manage, but if we're talking about a months-long project of tinkering and trials, then that's probably not the solution I'm looking for.

Anyway, I appreciate in advance any insights or feedback anyone is able to offer.

edit: @Hendrik correctly pointed out a discrepancy in my post regarding lack of "dumb" 4k TVs. I was trying to simplify things, but in reality my situation is one 1080p “dumb” TV and one modern 4k which I think is a Vizio brand smart TV. I am looking for a solution I’ll be able to move between both.

I’m trying to repair my Lenovo Ideapad Gaming 3 laptop, model 15ACH6. The plastic is cracked/broken at both hinges, so I am replacing the “upper case.”

The manual says I need screws of certain sizes. One of these sizes is M2 x L11.5 which I can’t seem to find at any major online retailer. I’m not a screw-expert, so maybe I’m looking in the wrong spot or entering the wrong information.

All the screw sets I’m seeing appear to leave out the 11.5 screws.

Does anyone know where to find these?

It’s bad enough that I have to fix what shouldn’t be broken in the first place, but to add insult to injury the brilliant engineers at Lenovo decided to use extremely hard to find screws. Couldn’t they have just added that extra .5 whatever to the upper case so it doesn’t break in the first place? I’d really rather have a thicker laptop than one that breaks in this extremely inconvenient and preventable manner. Planned obsolescence is alive and well.

I posted the question at the link above and a few people have commented, but I cannot reply to their comments. I am logged in and when I click on the reply arrow a field for a reply opens, but I cannot type in it. Clicking in the field doesn't do anything and I haven't found any setting that might be relevant. Any suggestions?

Shower Based Rectal Cleansing Device Proposal

Abstract:

This proposal introduces a shower-based rectal cleansing device that combines hygiene, comfort, and efficiency. Key features include temperature control, water and soap dispensing, and customizable pressure settings. The device prioritizes safety and adaptability, enhancing personal care.

Introduction:

Rectal hygiene is vital for many individuals, yet current methods often lack comfort or effectiveness. This design presents a solution integrating advanced technology and ergonomic design for optimal cleaning.

Key Features:

1.Compact, Body Safe Materials: Ensures comfort and safety.

2.Cleansing Mechanisms: Soap and water dispensers for both internal and external cleansing.

3.Customizable Settings: Adjustable temperature, pressure, and intensity for personalized comfort.

4.Stretching Components: Enhance effectiveness without discomfort.

Device Design:

1.Structure:

Made from heat resistant silicone or medical-grade materials.

Central section for rectal insertion, surrounded by four extendable components for safe widening and cleansing.

Internal nozzles for soap and water dispensing.

2.Cleansing Mechanism:

Soap Dispensing: Medical grade soap for internal use.

Water Jet Streams: Customizable pressure for thorough rinsing.

3.Temperature Control: Built in sensors regulate water temperature to prevent burns.

4.Adjustable Intensity: Customizable pressure and stretching for varying comfort levels.

Materials:

Heat Resistant Silicone: Safe under high water temperatures.

Medical Grade Plastics: Durable and safe.

Non Irritating Cleanser: Biodegradable soap for sensitive areas.

Functionality & Safety:

1.Automatic Shutoff: Prevents excessive pressure or water use.

2.Sensor Feedback: Ensures safe temperature and pressure.

3.Hygienic Maintenance: Easy to clean, bacteria resistant components.

Wall Mounted Storage & Control Module:

Storage & Control System: Houses soap, water connection, and control interface.

Automatic Soap Dispensing: Refillable reservoir with sensors for soap levels.

Water Connection: Direct connection to the water supply, with filtration and temperature regulation.

Smart Controls: App or touch interface to adjust settings like pressure, temperature, and cleaning duration.

App Features:

1.Customizable Cleaning Profiles: Save settings for easy access.

2.Usage Notifications: Alerts for soap refills or maintenance needs.

3.Real Time Adjustments: Adjust settings via the app.

4.Smart Home Integration: Connects to Alexa/Google Home for voice control.

Sterilizing Chamber:

1.Sterilization Methods:

UV-C Light: Kills bacteria and viruses by damaging DNA.

Heat Treatment: Kills microbes using controlled heat.

Antimicrobial Coating: Prevents microbial growth.

2.Sterilization Process:

Automatic retraction into the wall for sterilization.

UV-C light and heat cycle for thorough cleaning.

3.Automated Cleaning Agent Flush: Ensures internal sanitation with disinfectants.

4.System Features:

User Notifications: App or interface alerts when sterilization is complete.

Manual or Auto Activation: Choose when to run the sterilization cycle.

Maintenance Reminders: App alerts for filter replacements.

So I'm on mobile Firefox (=no extensions) and wanted to download a few files, but the links led me to Boostellar, and besides the fact that I have better things go do than look at ads, it doesn't even work at all in the first place.

What can I do about this? (and no, I can't download any extensions, so don't bring those up)

I got a used optiplex 7040 MT computer to replace my 7010sff computer. The 7010 was/is running a Nvidia K2200 graphics card. When I install the card in the 7040 It displays nothing (monitors do not come on) It does boot all the way into windows (I can hear the chime when it launches windows). The 7040 native monitor ports work find without the GPU installed but turn off when it is installed. Things I have tried: -turning off secure boot -re-flashing BIOS from dell -re-installing drivers -Confirming PCI ports are enabled in BIOS -muttering threats under my breathe -swapping PCI ports -Restoring BIOS to factory settings (this list was easier to read but publishing killed the formatting)

Anybody have any other ideas I could try? Again the card and cables work on my old rig. Not sure if this is relevant but the system is running dual drives, an internal ssd with Windows 11pro installed (what it came with) and Linux Mint on a ssd hard drive. Edit to add: Fans on GPU spin up like normal.

I havent used my pinetime/watch in a very long time after the strap broke.
Recently i bought a strap that i was told would fit.
Unfortunately the strap around the metal prongs that are supposed to hold it in place seems to have been too thick and wont allow the prongs to actually hold. What strap would serve well without the thickness problem? If possible a specific name would be great, mainly due to me having to search up the name on german (im from austria).

thanks in advance.

Edit: the metal i am referring to are these:

The plastic around them appears to be too big to fit the watch itself

So I have an Inspiron 3847 and it has a 3.5' 1TB hard drive. Sorry, I'm not at home right now and forget which brand.

I was hoping to upgrade to a SSD and therewithin lies the problem. I can't find any 3.5 SSDs.

I'm very confused. But would it be possible to connect a 2.5' SSD to the same Sata connectors my current (old) hard drive uses? I'm unsure which version of sata it is.

My PC was built in 2014 if that helps.

Drag has an old iPad Mini that stopped working. There's nothing physically wrong with it. The screen is fine, the battery is fine, the processor is old, but fit for purpose. Apple simply refuses to allow browser updates. It's not like drag needs the latest and greatest, drag only uses it to browse deviantart and furaffinity. As recently as a year ago it worked perfectly. But these websites no longer serve content properly to old browser versions, so drag needs a way to bypass apple and update the browser.

Drag's tried Firefox, Chrome, Safari, and even Brave. But apparently all browsers on iOS are just reskins of Safari, so none of these worked.

Is there some way drag could maybe install an Android distribution on the iPad? Or get a proper browser on this machine? Drag despises e-waste and also is broke. It's not a must-have, drag has a perfectly good phone and PC. But the larger screen size is good for image browsing, and hacking this machine to fix it would be a nice middle finger to Apple's planned obsolescence.

hi everyone, i don't know if this is the right place to ask this question so sorry in advance, the thing is i bought a year ago a 4g wifi router snice there is no dsl or fibre connection in rural areas but i have been suffering from the slow internet connection specially if it's cloudy, raining or there is a massive users pressure, but i've heard lately about some type of antennas designed for this type of router to support them and help boosting the signal waves, there are none in my area and i have no choice but to purchase one from ebay but i didn't do it yet cuz i want your help guys in finding the best antenna that suits me. the device name is soyealink with two antenna ports from behind. THANK YOU!!

I'll write what happened in steps as it occurred (the problem starts at steps 4-6, if you want to skip to that):

1. After waking up I noticed my phone was only at 50-something % after charging for 6 hours overnight from 30%. The USB tester it was connected through read constant 1.36A (around 7W). No abnormal heating observed.
2. Assuming this was kept constant, the phone should have received 42Wh overnight. I rebooted the phone, tried charging it turned off, percentage remained the same. "Whatever you say then..."
3. I tried different adapter (Xiaomi). Near-15W for a few seconds, then back to 1.36A. I often see this exact figure, thus I assume the phone learns my charging habits and slows down. I tried changing the time from around 04:30 to 12:30, but this made no difference.
4. I tried the official USB-C PD 66W adapter. Unfortunately, I do not have a USB-C tester, but Ampere app reported >5A and the percentage was indeed going up quickly.
5. I connected it back to the previous adapter, finally getting near-15W at 5V as anticipated.
6. I just put a small fan back on top of the screen (not necessary, but it was on that 66W adapter for a bit before - the cooler the better) as usual and was about to leave it charging, but soon heard a strange notification sound. Upon unlocking I was greeted with the error shown.
7. Glancing at the USB tester, it was erratically jumping between 5V, 6V and 12V, protocol jumping between "Unknown" and QC 2.0.
8. I reconnected it with the same results.
9. I switched to Xiaomi power adapter (the suspicious one being Motorola), no issues observed at first. I assumed power adapter failure.
10. I shortly connected the phone back to the official 66W adapter to asses potential damage. Everything worked.
11. I connected the phone back to the Xiaomi adapter without a USB tester, and once again got the error shown (this time on a different QC-compatible adapter). Re-connecting with a USB tester the issue didn't show up again.

Devices list

Phone

Ulefone Armor 24 (version shipped with Android 14) - 85.14Wh

USB Tester

FNIRSI FNB18

Cables

1. HOCO USB-A (4-pin*) to USB-C data + charging
2. Choetech 240W USB-C to USB-C 2m

Adapters

1. Motorola TurboPower 15W (USB-A)
2. Xiaomi TurboCharge 33W (USB-A*)
3. Ulefone 66W PD (USB-C) - (11V 6A for 66W)

* Regarding the 4-pin USB-A: Xiaomi breaks standards by utilizing USB Power Delivery via 5-pin USB-A with their proprietary cable.

Thanks for any ideas.

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.sdf.org/post/25540635

Have searched about it on the net and have seen that WPA2/WPA3 is recommended, in the case of older devices n IoT.
I normally use the hotspot to share internet to other devices. They're not too old and I don't use IoT devices.

Would choosing WPA3 be better/faster for my case? Did not see much info on that or benchmarks about it?
Saw somewhere that WPA3 has more overhead because of greater encryption, but would plain WPA3 be better than the default WPA2/WPA3?

Thanks in advance

I have recently gotten a hold of some classics again and wanted to look into getting a bit of a better image quality (currently i only have a simple hdmi adapter for them).
Looking into upscalers they seem, very very pricey?
Is that the norm around these parts?
I am not looking for ultra 4k hd fancy stuff, just getting thigns to be a bit sharper and more pleasent to look at.

But stuff like retrotink 5x pro are just as much and more some of these consoles.

Is retrotink the next option for price?
It would only be for for a ps2 and a wii

This is a really weird problem that I can't seem to track down further. Perhaps a creative person could suggest some test ideas. Here are the facts:

• Firefox "Unable to connect" to my LAN server (a router) at 192.168.0.2 port 80.
• Network error is specifically "NS_CONNECTION_REFUSED".
• Wireshark on a Raspberry Pi placed between the laptop and server shows no packets exchanged trying to connect. Any packet containing 192.168.0.2, any port.
• Chrome and Safari work just fine on the same machine. I can see the packets in Wireshark. This validates my test setup works.
• Curl works, loads the web page. I can see the packets.
• I have reinstalled, refreshed, removed all extensions, cleared all history and cookies in Firefox and still cannot load the page.
• Firefox in Safe Mode cannot load the page.
• Disabled DNS over HTTPS, made sure No Proxy is selected in network settings. Still cannot load the page.
• Disabled IPv6 in Firefox with about:config setting. Still fails.
• I have no security software installed of any kind on this Mac. No antivirus or firewall except the default OS one.
• Turned off Mac built-in Firewall. Still unable to connect.

Why is Firefox apparently refusing to connect to my server? Other LAN IP addresses work fine, even local ones. It specifically hates this one.

It's finally happened, my OnePlus has been through with me thick and thin, but this is the second time a screen has broken. The first was a major break, this time it's just a row of dead pixels, it was really dim until I did a dead pixel repair program, that seemed to make it worse by unlocking whatever pink hell this is and making it fully kill the line of pixels. IDK. This is a OnePlus 8 pro, the one I got before they killed software support only 3 years in and the last "root friendly" one they made.

Think it's worth it to get another whole screen and attempt a repair? Or rather sell it as is and try to get an upgrade.

End of an era I swear

So I've been getting the occasional BSOD and it recently started getting a bit more frequent, so I decided to run a memtest86 over night to check if it's maybe the RAM causing it.
I got 1 error, so then I tested each stick, 1 by 1 (every new stick I would test I also put in a different slot) but I only tested first 3 sticks, thinking that the last one is faulty, since they all passed the test, but yesterday I decided to test the last one as well and that one passed as well. So now I'm confused, not sure what to do...
I was running on 3 sticks for 2 days and I didn't get BSOD, but that still means nothing because it was rare occurrence anyways.

Should I test all of the sticks again? Is there a better test I should be using instead?

(RAM is not OC'd btw)

This is one of the longest running problems without a solution i have ever had (it caused me to seek out alternative clients in the first place)
Anyway, heres the deal: Youtube doesnt seem to remember my history on any video, heres the things i tried: check of history is in (it is)
ad these to ublock origin .video-stats.l.google.com .s.youtube.com
disable ublock origin
try a different browser ( fresh firefox and two different chromium ones)
disable tampermonkey

And today i looked at my history again, and the weirdets thing is it does remember the position and when i open the video from googles watch history, it works, i opened a video normally after that and it worked too

Anyone with any idea what is going on here would be greatly appreciated

My ultimate goal is to install Xubuntu on this computer, but I am stuck.

I cannot find any way to get into the BIOS to change settings, including being able to boot to the USB installer drive.

I have tried F1 held, F1 repeated, Fn+F1 (held/repeated), same with F2, same with F12, same with Del.

I tried telling Windows to boot to UEFI settings, but it reboots directly to windows.

I ended pulling the drive and removing all the partitions, in hopes that then it wouldn't try to boot to Windows anymore. Now it just gives me this:

Using this menu, I can't boot to USB, nor can I boot to DVD.

I opened it and do not see any jumpers on the visibe side of the motherboard. I also did not see a CMOS battery. There are lots of tiny ribbon cables and the heat sink+fan that I'll have to remove if I need to look on the other side.

What I want most is access the the BIOS / UEFI settings.

If a workaround like installing an OS to the drive using another machine and then putting back in will probably work, then I'll try that, but that will be such a hassle.

This is quite the technical question and I doubt I’ll get an answer on this small community but I’ll try it anyways.

So I’m a very heavy YouTube user and comment multiple times pretty much every day for years. Over years I wondered why I haven’t received notifications when someone replied to my comments and only got notified when someone directly referred to my handle or sometimes when someone liked or a creator hearted my comment (which made my experience on YouTube very lonely since I never got anything back).

Now I figured out I disabled the specific notification setting responsible for comment activity called “Notify me about activity on my comments and posts on other channels” (I must’ve turned this off in the past prolly cause I got too many notifications) and after turning it on I randomly got notified about past comments from me that literally have thousands of likes and hundreds of valuable replies and interactions that I missed out on.

Now I’m wondering if there is any way I can get an overview over all the replies I ever received on my comments because I can’t go through every individual comment I ever posted since they’re way too many.

If there is no direct way maybe there is some script or some trick that can pull all the replies I ever got and maybe see my most liked comments to see all the interactions and comments I missed out on.

I bet there are many people who want to see all the comments they got on their own comments so an answer would be much appreciated.

So I got some water damage on my tablet, the screen was broken since water seeped into the under layers and I had to replace it, I noticed it wasn't letting me draw so I replaced the Wacom ribbon since corrosion had borked the resistance in one of the pins. Now it was working, or so I thought, and finally glued it back together.

As you can see here there's a big sensitivity jump in the middle, and before you suggest it, no I dont use a magnetic case, never have, any ideas? I want suggestions before I go ahead and order the replacement Wacom board, that's my suspected culprit