techsupport

I'm using Boost for Lemmy on Android and when others post spoiler tags, I still see the text that should be hidden until tapped. Being able to see through spoiler tags is keeping me from engaging as readily with spoiler-filled communities.

Is there any adjustments I can do to fix it or is it something that can only be done at app or instance or Lemmy as a whole level? TY.

Hi everyone, appreciate some assistance here. My CPU has hit 100 degrees celcius and shut down. This was happening when the CPU load was 1% with nothing running. I have ran a virus scan (both Defender and Malwarebytes) and nothing there. I have also changed the thermal paste, cleaned the fans and made sure the CPU cooler was secured properly.

This has happened randomly before, then all of a sudden it's running fine again and sits between 40c - 60c for months. It seems to be a completely random event then goes back to normal. It occurs maybe twice a year.

This is what I have:

Gigabyte B650 Gamxing X MSI GeForce RTX 3060 AMD Ryzen 7 7700X EK AIO 240 D-RGB be quiet! Pure Power 11 Gold Modular 750W Power Supply

Anything else I can look for? Appreciate it.

Update: I've ended up applying for warranty for the cooler. I have tried all that has been suggested. For now, I've bought a Noctua NH-U9S cpu fan. If that works, I'll probably just leave it in there.

Thanks again for helping a confused noob girl out. Love this community!

I saw a screenshot the other day of someone having tagged someone else with a note to help them recognize them later.

For example, if I wanted to tag [email protected] with a note of "Admits to sometimes secretly dressing up like Tarzan", so that I see it next to their name every time I read a comment/post.. how do I do this?

Bonus-question: Is this possible in my preferred app, Voyager?

Note: GatoB may or may not secretly dress up as Tarzan from time to time, I do not know. Not shaming either way.

Right now I have the modem/router in the attic, where most of the computers are, but i also have a computer in the basement, to get to that computer i have a powerline network adapter with two ethernet ports.

However, there is now a laptop that needs to be connected down there and doesn't have ethernet, wifi range down there is terrible, i'd like to plug something into the additional ethernet that just outputs the same wifi as upstairs (that way i don't even have to change wifi connections, and it connects automatically to the best one), what would be the best way to do that?

To be clear I know what multipoint is and it's not what I am looking for. I don't want to toggle between two audio sources. I want to combine several various audio sources into one set of headphones. I searched online for this and a lot of people were asking why someone would want to do this. It's so I can do things like play Elden Ring on my Steam Deck and listen to a podcast on my phone. Zoomer stuff.

One way I'm pretty sure I can do this is with Bluetooth audio receivers, a X in 1 out audio mixer, a USB hub and power source, and a Bluetooth audio transmitter.

I am not sure if using the same cheap audio receivers would cause issues or what kind of latency that would produce. Given how many people use Bluetooth headphones these days and the existence of Bluetooth DACs I thought something would exist (even if it was limited to a niche Tindie product). Ideally something that makes the pairing process easier than using screenless audio receivers and is a bit more portable.

I would appreciate any tips or suggestions to simplify this setup.

Where the "block" button would normally be now only has a notification telling me I've been banned. I don't want to see said community in my feed if I can't even comment there.

Has anyone ever had this issue with NVMe SSDs?

"A device which does not exist was specified."

Is this a hardware defect? The drive (PNY CS3140 1TB) is only about 5 weeks old. It seems to fix itself after a couple of reboots, but it's very annoying. Linux doesn't seem to have any issues with it yet.

Update: Solved by re-seating the drive in the slot: https://ma.fellr.net/users/fell/statuses/113883457441026891

@techsupport

#AskFedi #TechSupport #Windows #Windows10 #SSD #NVMe #Linux #Hardware

The lead up:

It was working a couple months ago. The headset was just sitting on a stand with the cable loosely looped back and forth in like usual so I'm hoping it's not a cable issue.

I decided to play around with it today and the Meta Quest software updated automatically and after that I was getting weird disconnect messages, a black screen, and static. Now I am getting no signs of life from the headset in terms of LEDs or other lights; only chimes that something is being connected and disconnected to my computer.

I previously had issues getting my Rift S headset to work likely due to some kind of power related issue on my old PC. A couple months ago it would work fine with no issues.

Most posts seem related to "Port Reset Failed" errors.

My troubleshooting steps so far have been:

• I swapped around the DisplayPort and USB connection (USB 3.2 and with a PCI-E USB expansion card) and reinserted the connector on the headset

• I went into Device Manager and uninstalled "Unknown USB Device (Device Descriptor Request Failed)" and "Rift USB Hub" before plugging the USB cord back in.

• I plugged the USB cord in and waited before plugging in the DisplayPort cable.

• I tried reinstalling the drivers using the oculus-driver.exe found in ./Oculus/Support/ and the Oculus software all together.

• Downgrading the drivers using instructions from the Oculus subreddit doesn't appear possible because it requires the Rift S to be recognized during the Oculus setup process.

• Straightening out the cable and feeling for any irregularities.

• Rebooting multiple times during all of this.

• Verified the ports on my computer are working.

• Disconnecting the headset end while the other side is connected to my computer

Steps that might help but I would like to avoid:

• Verifying the headset works using a different PC. As mentioned at the top my old PC had it's own set of issues with the Rift and I don't have friends to reach out to borrow a PC.

• Purchasing a new cable. They are proprietary and cost more than the headset by itself and aren't sold by Meta.

• Reaching out to Meta support. They seem to recommend the same steps of reseating the cable, reseating the headset, rebooting the PC, and uninstalling things in Device Manager. In a few posts they seem pretty dismissive and refer to the Rift S as old. There's a lot of unresolved posts on the Meta community forums.

• Reinstalling Windows. It sounds like this rarely works and it would be a hassle.

If it does come down to spending $100 on the cable I might just consider getting a new headset that doesn't have anything to do with Meta. If you can think of one that it isn't crazy expensive let me know. The Meta Quest 3 looks neat and decently priced but I am real tired of dealing with Meta and how they handled the Rift S.

I wanted to dual boot fedora with Windows 11 and decided to partition my C drive but it shows the size available to shrink as around 900mb even though I have more than 250gb of available space in my drive.

I have already dual booted once before on this machine before switching back to Windows only and I would like to get back into linux but I can't seem to solve this issue.

From my research, the problem is caused by some immovable files resulting in discontiguous space in the drive? I have tried various solutions available online like disabling page files, deleting restore points and using 3rd party software (but all of them required paid plans to defrag/shrink my drive), none of them helped (though I think disabling page files got my available shrink space from 500mb to 900mb, essentially the problem still persists). I have also tried the inbuilt defrag utility of windows but the problem persists.

One thing that I haven't tried is trying to shrink through GParted because I have to boot using a USB stick in order to use it so I'm concerned it might break my existing windows install or personal files. Can anyone confirm if it is risk free? Or any other solutions I can try?

I have been using Quad9 for my DNS, setup at the router level, for months without issue. Today, I woke up and the internet wasn't working, and as the one in the house who self-hosts a couple things on an old laptop and thus tinkers with the router, I was the one my roommates looked at in a panic.

I figured I'd just do a factory reset, and it worked! And then stopped working when I changed the DNS from my ISP's servers to Quad9's. I can't even ping their servers from my home network.

Could my home IP have been banned from Quad9 for some reason? I truly can't imagine why.

EDIT: Update if anyone cares, it works now. I assume it was a problem somewhere between my network and Quad9's servers, since I didn't change any configurations to make it work.

I wanted to automatically open youtube videos in tubular (a newpipe fork) on my tablet, so I tried enabling the links in the settings but none of them showed up in the menu and I simply got a message telling me "0 supported links" as shown below (the "add" button doesn't do anything). It isn't a bug with the app as it works fine on my phone and I tried it on other apps which showed the same issue (including ones installed from the play store instead of fdroid).

Things I tried:

• Rebooting my device
• Trying different permissions for the app
• Resetting my device's settings
• I didn't try reinstalling the app but, as I mentioned, I tried installing other apps which also had the same problem

For reference the tablet is a lenovo tab K11 on android 13, it was also issued to me by my school although I doubt that's what's causing the issue.
My phone is a pixel 7 pro running android 15 (grapheneOS)

Does anyone know what's causing the issue and how to fix it.

Hi, first post on reddit in general but couldn't think of anywhere else to ask, this is for the motherboard of an AIO PC my family's been using, it got damaged and I've been trying to source a replacement. https://www.ebay.com/itm/156622853448

This matches it perfectly, but the majority of Boards that come up when I look up "Dell 7700 i7-1165G7 Motherboard" or some variant do not as seen here

https://www.ebay.com/itm/404654665907 The difference in question is besides the CPU die and below the CMOS battery. There's like 3 controllers(?) amongst other things that are on mine/the first link's mobo but aren't on the rest. The descriptions on most of these listings aren't very helpful in finding out the difference either. Just wanted to know what I should be looking for or how much this matters(or just a link to actual documentation on the board,failed to find Dell's own site myself but could have missed it).

After getting randomly banned on a subreddit (without breaking any of the rules) and accidentally posting on there with a different account, Reddit permanently banned me from their site. Appealing the ban didn't work.

Now, as soon as I create a new Reddit account it gets automatically suspended either immediately or after a few minutes to sometimes hours.

I assume many on Lemmy face similar situations and also switched to Lemmy because of a similar reason and they might also wonder how to bypass such a ban.

It seems like Reddit is using advanced fingerprinting since normal methods such as switching VPN, deleting and re-installing the browser/Reddit mobile app (including all associated data) and changing email doesn't work.

I'm not skilled enough and don't really have any "hacker knowledge" to bypass the ban. After extensive research I couldn't find a better solution than getting a new device or formatting the whole device.

I assume there must be a better way of changing ones fingerprint without just fully formatting the devices. Maybe it could work by changing the MAC address or something?

My goal is to not have a complicated way of accessing Reddit and resolving the issue in a way that one can access it completely normally again like in my case with the Chrome/Edge browser on Windows, Safari on Mac, and the Reddit app on Android.

Maybe someone has the knowledge here to help with this.

I've got a fairly new Lenovo Ideapad (14aph8) which up until yesterday charged just fine. Now the ports don't accept any charger at all, even their official one.

I've tried holding down the power button to dump static charge from the battery but at best I get maybe 2-3 seconds of it recognising the official charger before it goes dead again.

Is there a home fix or should I just reach out for warranty?

I'm currently setting up a windows 11 machine for a kid and want to make sure that their traffic is easily monitored. I've debloated much of it. Normally, I'd get rid of Edge and put on Firefox. But I noticed that Microsoft Family has the ability to monitor website usage.

I was wondering if there's similar functionality with Firefox or Chrome.

I'm most familiar with the iOS parental toolkit.

Finally, I want to let him have some access to some games, but I don't want him to purchase any games yet. I'm open to suggestions to getting this aspect locked in as well. I was just going to mimic my set up with Playnite. But I haven't really dug into it yet.

So I was trying to add this application to my app grid called Grayjay using the menu editor menulibre. While the application was added to the app grid every time I try to launch it does absolultly nothing. I have tried making a .sh file to launch the app and then adding that but that did not work either. I am able to run both the executable and the .sh file via the command line. Is there a way I can fix this so that I can launch the Grayjay via the app grid instead of the terminal.

Any help rolling it back? I really don't like it at all.

I know most replies here will likely encourage Linux and I get it. If it were up to me it'd be done. The problem is I work from home and are bound to certain limitations.

So to the problem at hand, I hope to get some insight on:

The two culprits are bitlocker and Window's gaming service/overlay not sure what actual name of it is without having the error message in front of me. I'm not nearly as irritated at the gaming issue as I am with the bitlocker issue because the bitlocker is causing random crashes forcing PC reboots.

Where I find my hands tied is for both scenarios, I have gone thru Windows Services, Gpedit, regedit, and admin powershell command inputs that all show have successfully terminated the bitlocker and gamepad functions from even being able to be initiated.

As for bitlocker specifically, I have never enabled, used, activated or even owned a version of Windows 11 that provided access to bitlocker services.

I didn't know it even existed before the Windows 11 24h2 update. Neither issue was present before the update. Even went thru the steps back stepping the updates installed to before the 24h2 update.

So by all intensive purposes (lol) the PC is running on a Windows build before the update fucked it up, is running without any group permission, active services, or regestry settings that should allow bitlocker or gamebar to launch.

Yet here I am. Everytime I launch a game I have a popup that informs me there are no available apps to open the gamebar.

As well as almost every other day no matter what I'm doing or what I am in the middle of, my PC just shuts down and reboots out of fuckin nowhere.

When I check the event viewer, the "critical" error message just says "The system rebooted without cleanly shutting down first. This error could be caused if the system stopped responding, crashed, or lost power suddenly."

The two warning error messages that occur almost in conjunction to the reboot critical message are two identical error messages that state, "Bitlocker timed out attempting to enumerate bands during volume discovery on this hardware encrypting drive."

Before i get to my questions, I would like to add I am also entirely exhausted of reaching out to microsoft for help. They are fucking useless and each ticket I've opened with them results in a redundant cycle that ends nowhere at the cost of hrs of my time sitting on hold or following their recommended troubleshooting suggestions that are just redundant to the previous attempts to help.

My specific questions are as follows:

1.0 Everything I google regarding bitlocker just returns bugs people experiencing from when the are trying to get bitlocker to work properly and not much for scenarios that want it removed completely from a system. Does anyone know of any recommened resources I can do some more learning on the matter?

2.0 Am I wrong to think that turning off, disabling and removing the means for these operations to launch/initiate/run in the background will also prevent the system from attempting to initiate those operations?

3.1 Potential work around I thought to try, any feedback is appreciated, if either of those event viewer error messages are actually telling me that I must install a bitlocker driver for the service to properly launch and the issue will work itself out.

3.2 The fallback plan is to reboot my approach completely and convert Windows 11 back to Windows 10. Have never done this extreme of a fix so any feedback is gratefully recieved. Does anyone have any goto resources for this procedure to help me keep from anything falling thru the cracks.

4.0 Last couple notes if it helps, another bug that I noticed but fixed is my one screen's taskbar does this wierd shit where the whole thing gets super fucking tiny and just floats in the middle of the lower screen. The issue only stopped when I reinstalled the back ported Windows 11 24h1 version or whatever it's called. Since being under the previous update version the taskbar glitch has gone away. Went thru 3 hrs of troubleshooting with Microsoft for this one and despite their most urgent attempts to prove otherwise, we came to the conclusion it was not the hardware, monitors or gou driver. It only happened to whatever monitor was assigned by the system to be considered monitor "1."

Nothing here is life or death so I'm not overly worried but at the same time I'd love to get some insight into either end of this shitshow but to reiterate, fixing the bitlocker shit is enemy of the state numero uno.

Any and all input to follow will be so appreciated. Thank you to anyone in advance who made it this far thru this rant and replies. To them especially but also to anyone else that pops in, I'd also like to wish you all a wonderful fucking holiday season!

So, I have Crucial MX500 SSD, and on their spec sheet, the SSD Endurance TBW is 180TB

Crystal Disk Info says the health is at 33% Health, despite Total Host Writes being 54039 GB (30% of specified SSD endurance TBW of 180TB)

So is their specified endurance wrong, is the Total Host Writes data in Crystal Disk Info misleading or wrong, or is there more things that go into determining the "health" of an SSD besides Total Bytes Written? Or could it be that I mistreated the SSD causing its health to get worse?

Hey everyone,

I've got a bunch of weird stuff happening with my computer (both in Linux Mint and Windows 10) and hoping you could help me figure out if it's a software issue or if it's a hardware issue then which component is borked.

The fact that both systems are having issues is making me think it's a hardware issue? Both OS's are on different drives, not dual booting from the same disk.

Linux issues:

Distro: Mint 20.2

Kernel: 5.4.0-202-generic

CPU: Intel i7-7700k

GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1070

Memory: 16GB

It started with Firefox crashing randomly and now the display is forced at a weird resolution and it doesn't recognize the second attached screen. It has no option to change resolution in GUI and the xrandr -q output doesn't list any devices and talks about failing to get size of gamma for output default. I'm trying some stack overflow and arch wiki guides about adding manual selections to xrandr but nothing is working. Firefox seems to be stable now but unsure. I tried NVIDIA guides about making sure blacklist file doesn't exist and forcing non-wayland sessions but that didn't work; the NVIDIA X Server Settings GUI also boots completely blank.

xrandr output:

{22:20}-{xxx}-{~}$: xrandr -q --verbose xrandr: Failed to get size of gamma for output default Screen 0: minimum 1024 x 768, current 1024 x 768, maximum 1024 x 768 default connected primary 1024x768+0+0 (0x528) normal (normal) 0mm x 0mm Identifier: 0x527 Timestamp: 45214 Subpixel: unknown Clones: CRTC: 0 CRTCs: 0 Transform: 1.000000 0.000000 0.000000 0.000000 1.000000 0.000000 0.000000 0.000000 1.000000 filter: _MUTTER_PRESENTATION_OUTPUT: 0 non-desktop: 0 supported: 0, 1 1024x768 (0x528) 59.769MHz *current h: width 1024 start 0 end 0 total 1024 skew 0 clock 58.37KHz v: height 768 start 0 end 0 total 768 clock 76.00Hz 1920x1080_60.00 (0x545) 173.000MHz -HSync +VSync h: width 1920 start 2048 end 2248 total 2576 skew 0 clock 67.16KHz v: height 1080 start 1083 end 1088 total 1120 clock 59.96Hz

I do have timeshift backups for a few days ago but seeing as I'm not sure if this may be hardware related I'm not sure whether to go down that path.

Windows 10 issues:

Before today it went BSOD pretty quickly after logging in (safemode works fine) with errors such as 'kmode exception not handled' and 'bad pool caller'. I've since updated the nvidia drivers by booting in safemode and now the screen is black with the bottom menu flickering in and out (with no apps, just the start button) on both screens.

It seems like the issue is to do with the graphics card but, again, I'm not sure if it's something I can fix by typing a magic spell or two, or if I need to buy a new card.

Appreciate any responses, thanks!

(If this question is inappropriate or better suited elsewhere, please let me know, and I can remove it.)

I have a mostly personally digitized media library on external USB storage that I am looking for a convenient and effective way to watch in 4K on my home non-smart television. I'm not interested in solutions for accessing streaming pirated content, unlocking subscription-based services, or anything of that nature; I'm just looking for a way to connect a USB-C external drive with loose media content (largely H.265-based 4K video and FLAC audio files) at the best quality on my home television.

I understand that Android TV boxes are available cheaply on Amazon and might be a viable solution, but this video from Linus suggests these can be malware nightmares, so I'm wary of trying any of those. Linus went on to make a follow-up video, but either his suggestions for my use cases were unclear, or I am not savvy enough to have understood them. For example, he mentions in the follow-up video that the Google Chromecast might be specifically bad for this due to the bottlenecking of the USB 2.0-based transfer speed, but I don't think he ever brings up the topic directly again or suggests which of the other options presented is particularly good for external storage media file playback.

If this option can also replace my current Amazon Fire Stick as my go-to media center option with access to the typical streamers (YouTube, Netflix, Crunchyroll, etc.), that would be especially incredible.

If this option comes with some kind of software/media library solution that would allow me to track watched progress in my personal media library in a way similar to how streaming services do, that would be double especially incredible.

And hey, if there's some way I could connect a controller to play some retro emulated games on it too, that would be amazing, but that's absolutely not a necessary component.

I don't have a high budget, so ideally, I'd like to keep costs in or around $50 if possible, but if that's unrealistic, I'd appreciate being told so I can adjust my expectations.

I'd say I'm a "high-level ignorant" or "low-level savvy" consumer; I feel like I'm not technologically illiterate but definitely would not call myself truly savvy or skilled. I've put PCs together from purchased components but would have no idea how to build or repair an individual component itself. I'm up for learning if the task is approachable, so if the best solution is something like a custom-built Raspberry Pi, I'm not opposed to the idea, but I have no real knowledge going into this and am more interested in a solution to the problem at hand than the edification that might come with such a project. So basically, if we're talking about a simple "build a media center in a box" sort of Pi kit, I might be able to manage, but if we're talking about a months-long project of tinkering and trials, then that's probably not the solution I'm looking for.

Anyway, I appreciate in advance any insights or feedback anyone is able to offer.

edit: @Hendrik correctly pointed out a discrepancy in my post regarding lack of "dumb" 4k TVs. I was trying to simplify things, but in reality my situation is one 1080p “dumb” TV and one modern 4k which I think is a Vizio brand smart TV. I am looking for a solution I’ll be able to move between both.

I’m trying to repair my Lenovo Ideapad Gaming 3 laptop, model 15ACH6. The plastic is cracked/broken at both hinges, so I am replacing the “upper case.”

The manual says I need screws of certain sizes. One of these sizes is M2 x L11.5 which I can’t seem to find at any major online retailer. I’m not a screw-expert, so maybe I’m looking in the wrong spot or entering the wrong information.

All the screw sets I’m seeing appear to leave out the 11.5 screws.

Does anyone know where to find these?

It’s bad enough that I have to fix what shouldn’t be broken in the first place, but to add insult to injury the brilliant engineers at Lenovo decided to use extremely hard to find screws. Couldn’t they have just added that extra .5 whatever to the upper case so it doesn’t break in the first place? I’d really rather have a thicker laptop than one that breaks in this extremely inconvenient and preventable manner. Planned obsolescence is alive and well.

I posted the question at the link above and a few people have commented, but I cannot reply to their comments. I am logged in and when I click on the reply arrow a field for a reply opens, but I cannot type in it. Clicking in the field doesn't do anything and I haven't found any setting that might be relevant. Any suggestions?