I suspect they meant ABS given ASA is also in their reply. No idea how good either material would be in this application, I just don't think it's possible to print PVC.
That's a lot of retractions. What is this filtering? Maybe you could print a more open structure and line it in mesh?
Also, where is this part in relation to chlorine? I can't imagine a printed part would hold up very well in high chlorine concentrations, but PETG is fairly inert...
Thanks! I'll have to stop by and pick up a spool. I would rather start with something that prints well for someon else than some random spool.
I'm guessing you mean Bambu? If so, you could print a [Nevermore](https://github.com/nevermore3d] and/or Bento box. They're both in-chamber active carbon filters and will help cut down on fumes. This is all I was running before the exhaust fan. Regarding the exhaust fan, I've found I don't need much flow - just enough to keep a slight negative pressure in the printer. I remember finding someone who ran their exhaust fan through a 3m respirator cartridge and they found that to be pretty effective when combined with an in-chamber carbon filter.
Ah, that makes sense. I live in 6a/nothern hemisphere and mine are still green. Mine are in the ground and we get a decent amount of rainfall. So far they're loving life.
Yup, if they make it through the winter then they will happily come back up year after year. I wish I had done more (read any) teaserch before putting two in the ground here. I'm going to be pushing their hardiness this winter and the plants are a bit bigger than I expected. If they do survive the winter I am considering planting a few more in a different location.
Klipper (firmware), mainsail (Web interface), obico (for failure det action) and some others. I can see why some would appreciate having a more turnkey option, but I agree with you that Klipper and mainsail make for a great pairing.
6a here. Ours are trying to grow still, but the deer keep eating them.
The USDA published an updated zone map a year or so ago. We went from 6b to 6a, which I've taken as license to be a bit more adventurous with what I leave in the ground.
We have a bed of cana lilies that still haven't been killed by this year's freeze. They usually die/get cut back to ground level and enough of them make it through the winter for the bed to reestablish.
This year I'm trying my luck with two globe artichokes.
ASA is a bit more audible than PETG, but PETG prints would also become very lose once my bed was cooled down.
I am not aware of any USB-PD power banks that take AA's. The idea behind my comment was "you don't have to worry too much about availability of OE batteries".
If heavy duty means "lets you carry more weight in your bed and tow more" do not do it unless you actually have weight in your bed or tow a lot. To do this, the springs have a higher spring rate which makes the ride very hard unless you're loaded.
DSLRs all have optical viewfinders, since the SLR bit basically means "uses a mirror and a pentaprism for the viewfinder".
Most digital interchangeable lens digital that I know of use proprietary form factor lithium batteries. Lithium is a lot more energy dense than an alkaline battery and are rechargeable. They also offer much more stable voltage as the battery discharges, which probably makes them more attractive to camera OEMs.
Why shy away from lithium packs? Even for my ancient D40 I can still get new, but aftermarket, batteries.
Most newer cameras can charge the battery in the body without removing it. Some even support USB-PD and can be externally powered indefinitely.
I got tired of remaking my sisal trellice every season, and didn't like using nylon netting, so I went with something more long term. The downside? Vine removal in the fall will likely be a slog.
No banana for scale, but let's say that it's not too big and not too small. The dimensions are 295mm tall, 270mm wide, and 240mm deep. If I had to do it again, I would be tempted to go a bit wider and touch less deep. It's probably better to be large in one of these dimensions as opposed to both of them.
Here's the top. It has a jack for charging, a connector to program the DSP, a switch to turn it on and off, and a battery gauge.
The speaker also has a built in handle that's way chunkier than it appears, but is still particle.
The big BOM pieces are a Dayton Audio LBB-5Sv2 for the BMS (battery management system), a Dayton Audio KABD-250 2 x 50W for DPS, amplification, and Bluetooth, a Peerless by Tymphany BC25SC08 tweeter, and an Italian-but-made-in-India woofer (a Coral PRF 165).
The print itself is three pieces: the bottom bit (black), the middle bit (white, blue, and white again thanks to not having enough white left to do it all in white), and the black top. Here's a CAD view that more clearly shows the three pieces:
the three pieces are held together with heat-sets and m3 bolts. There's also a tong and groove like joint to help the enclosure leak less air. I haven't noticed any evidence of air leaks while listening.
The amplifier and battery board mount to the bottom like so:
The middle was printed with some supports for the driver overhangs, but the ports and everything else were designed to print in place without supports.
This is certainly not meant to be audiophile build, but it's surprisingly decent. This isn't my first blue-tooth speaker, or even my first printed loudspeaker enclosure, but it is the first that was somewhat intentionally designed to have OK bass response while also being reasonably compact.
It measures fairly well. Frequency response, along with harmonic distortion, is pretty good. There's zero windowing or smoothing on this plot. I suspect the distortion spikes at 1 kHz, 2 kHz, etc are induced by the Bluetooth stack the board is running since they've shown up in multiple different enclosures and with multiple different drivers.
There's no nasty ringing, caused by either the drivers or the enclosure, so life is pretty good:
I'm guessing this is the result of layers of slathering a fresh layer of finish on these tables. To be honest, I kind of like the look. Any idea what type of finish this might be?
Here's a slightly different angle:
It was getting later and chillier in the day when I found this busy bee taking a rest.
Our kids wish we had more. I'm not sure which verity these are, but they put out tons of runners which makes me not want to put them directly in soil.
Tips for a bigger crop are welcome :)
At least so far. The first go round had the nozzle crash into the tree support, resulting in a layer shift. The good news is that the print stayed very firmly stuck to the bed.
I've reset, lowered my extrusion multiplier a smidge, switched to a more traditional support pattern, and am going for it again. Wish me luck!
Both pots were started at the same time from the same batch of strawberry starts. They should have the same soil box. Both grew vigorously last spring/summer and got visited by deer in the fall. Both bounced back pretty well before winter set in. The left pot is very happy, the right... Not so much. I do recall the big pot having quite a bit of wilted leaf cover all winter, but don't think that was the case for the pot on the right. Maybe I didn't notice a late in the season deer visit that set the small pot back? Maybe the smaller pot got just enough colder than the big pot to kill some roots? Any other theories?
This is a follow up from my spaghetti post a few days ago.
Good news: I caught the nozzle catching on the infill during travels. The infill must have been curling up ever so slightly. Turning z-hop on solved this. I also bumped my nozzle to 255 based on a temp tower, but I don't think my original issue was flow related.
Bad news: this brought me to the failure above - evidently my chamber temps are too low for this size of ASA part and it warped. Maybe the higher nozzle temp contributed. Maybe this size of ASA part is unrealistic despite not having sharp corners. Maybe it's the fact that it's continuous from side to side. I am still going to attempt to print a hollow cylinder to go between this piece and another similar piece in ASA, so I guess we'll find out!
Good news: the part did not let go of the build plate. I'm pretty happy about this. My first layer is not overly squished, I've never used any adhesion aids (glue stick, hair spray, ASA slurry, etc), etc. Tuning my print_start sequence is resulting in a very consistent first layer.
Bad news: the build plate came up with the print. Holding the build plate down with binder clips or the like would probably just make something else fail.
Good news: I had enough PETG in stock to use that instead. Zero warpage, so great success. I had to go a bit slower because a flow test showed that I'm limited to around 25 mm^3 for PETG before the extrude motor started misstepping, despite bumping temp to 255 °C. I limited flow to 20 mm^3 to be safe. The print's a success so meh.
Any suggestions before trying again after a reset? This is my first go round changing nozzle diameter. I went from a 0.4 mm nozzle to a 0.6 mm nozzle.
After the swap I checked my extrusion multiplier (no change needed) and tuned pressure advance (I had to decrease the value a bit, but it looks spot on now).
As part of the nozzle swap, I also bumped line width from 125% to 150% in Orca Slicer (should be around 0.9mm extrusion width) and increased layer height to 0.3mm. This should put me around 22 mm^3/s of material, which shouldn't be an issue for a Rapido 2 but this is the most flow I've pushed through it so far. Maybe I should bump temp a touch? I'm still at my fairly-low-for-ASA 230 that I was using with my 0.4mm nozzle.
The print didn't move on the bed and shows no signs of warpage. There also aren't any signs of curling on the areas that the nozzle must have hit to cause the layer shift.
The only thing that seems like a miss was having z lift turned off while troubleshooting a print quality issue. I had it set to only lift above 0.25mm (not on the first layer) and only lift below z 0mm (this probably disabled z-hop). Z hop when retracting is set to 0.2mm, which is less than my 0.4mm retraction length so it seems like changing the "only lift below below z" value would re-enable z-hop.
Our youngest broke his big brother's bumblebee. Three iterations later, everything fits pretty well and the older one is happy to have bumblebee back.
This part seems super niche, so no printables link. That said, if anyone needs a replacement for this VSO let me know and I'll upload it.
In fairness, they never said a 2.4.