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Consumer choice in my vocabulary means that I can buy the same thing from different companies, so I, and other consumers, have the ability to "vote with our wallet". I don't care how many different colours you offer your thing, I care whether you are abusing a monopolistic market and if you hike prices I am able to buy from people who don't.
Consumer choice was dead before the pandemic, and it wasn't COVID that killed it, but unchecked mergers and acquisitions, and the US' refusal to enforce basic antitrust law, twisting and breaking global markets.
I think that voting with your wallet is yet another part of the delusion. It's portrayed by traditional economic theory as fairly universally applicable with some exceptions. I think the reality is showing it might be the other way around. That it works in a limited set of cases and it doesn't in most. If you think about it, if voting with your wallet works for a set of goods, then that has to be a competitive market. Then voting with your wallet should be able to produce winners and losers. What often happens to the losers is them or their productive assets getting scooped up by the winners. In either case that makes the market less competitive. Rinse and repeat until you end up with a single or a couple of choices for that good. E.g. you end up with a couple of grocers.
My "finished econ 101 on the second try with mediocre grades" knowledge says that new companies should get created to compete against the winners if they start abusing the paradigm. In reality, I of course see companies raising the barrier to entry through vertical integration and regulatory capture, among other things.
This article is about this happening less because it isn't profitable.