PC Master Race

I got a Corsair 5000D airflow case from a friend for free but it is missing all the four screws that hold the side panels on the back. All the screws I can find on the internet are the short version that don't have enough reach.

This screw is from my own PC case.

Edit: image with the short version that I was talking about

I know this is a low budget •_•"

Where would you go cheap?

What part should be bought new?

For which part is dumpster diving okay'ish?

This is a bit of a mea culpa from me.

In 2022 I started the build of my dream PC. i9 13900k, 2 TB M.2 drive, 32 GB of 5200 DDR5 ram.

...and a 6600XT.

Now at the time it was all I could afford. I just wanted something that would run most games decently. nothing earth shattering but could do the heavy lifting i needed it to. I planned to upgrade later down the road.

For most games it was (and still is) perfectly fine. It ran most of my 100+ game library with no complaints from me.

But there was one game. Arma 3.

Now anyone who knows Arma 3 will readily admit it is a horribly optimized mess. This games drinks ram and chews up GPU's like they're candy.

And my 6600XT was crushed underneath it's massive weight.

Now the problem for me is at the time I was fanatical about the game. It was pretty much the only game I played constantly. I still play it to this day, just not as much.

I would get stutters, massive frame drops and tons of crashes all centered around not enough GPU ram. (the 6600Xt only has 8) I HATED this card and would loudly complain on every forum every time someone would mention it. I sneered at AMD and desperately wanted to go Nvidia.

problem was i still couldn't afford to upgrade.

But I finally had it last month and so I saved up and bought...

An Intel ARC A770.

But it worked. frame rates went up, crashes pretty much disappeared and and all was good in the world.

At this point I know you (probably) are screaming "Well what the fuck does this has to do with BIOS!?

well let me explain. You see I also wanted a much better m.2 drive so I bought a WD Black SN850X.

but while I was installing the NVME drive I noticed that my PCIe slot was set to gen3 X8. Not gen4 X16.

This solved everything. I went back to my 6600XT as I was having driver issues with the ARC card. and now when I play Arma 3 it runs much smoother. It still crashes because honestly the game needs a minimum of 16 GB of memory on a video card to run (sort of) fairly smoothly, but frames went up, stutters pretty much disappeared and the 1% lows were much more less noticeable.

All because I missed a BIOS setting.

So WHY? why is BIOS still so troublesome? why can't it detect cards and automatically set the proper settings by itself?

WHY!?

Anyways, that's all I have to say about that.

If so, I'd love some pictures for inspiration. Bonus points if it's a corner or L desk.

saw this on Facebook and sat the funniest typo.

Come across a few different aspect ratios, however 5760x1080 seems to be for rare idiots like me with 3-27" curved. My current setup is not ideal, but modding my desk today so im not so close.

Overkill? Oh yeah, but I do enjoy it!

GPU is on its way out but its only effecting xwayland applications, still able to play games though

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/12271527

RIP Gamestream?

Hi everyone, I'm looking for a mini PC with specific features.

I want a small case/computer that can:

• VESA mount to the back of a monitor
• Has a Kensington lock
• Can be powered via USB-C. (~ <65W from monitor)

I have found the System76 Meerkat which has all those features except for USB-C power. I can't find a model from MinisForum with a VESA mount but maybe I just missed it. I'd appreciate the help!

EDIT: I found a company called Geekom which has everything I'm looking for. Thanks for the help

OK, so my first NVME was a cheap Kingston 2 TB drive. Not very good. So I just bought a new WD Black SN850X. tried doing a fresh install of windows. didn't work. said 'fuck it' and cloned my Kingston to the WD.

Now when I try booting off of the WD my BIOS detects it, but when i try to select it to boot from it doesn't show up. only my old Kingston shows up.

Motherboard is a Gigabyte Z790 UD AC.

tried switching drive letters. didn't work.

At wits end. Any suggestions?

Edit: sort of figured it out.

Pro tip, make sure your USB drive is formatted to the same file system as your nvme is.

First attempt was with a fat32 usb. This is what caused the problem.

Used a different USB formatted to ntsf. Seemes to be working now. Hopefully i will be anle to install windows now

I'm not sure where else to go with this, sorry if this isn't the right place.

I'm currently designing a NAS build around an old CMB-A9SC2 motherboard that is self-described as an 'entry level server board'.

So far i've managed to source all the other necessary parts, but i'm having a hell of a time finding the specified RAM that it takes:

• 204-pin DDR3 UDIMM ECC

As far as I can tell, that type of ram just doesn't exist... I can find it in SODIMM formats or I can find it in 240-pin formats, but for the life of me I cannot find all of those specifications in a single card.

I'm about ready to just throw the whole board away, but everything else about the board is perfect....

Has anyone else dealt with this kind of memory before? Is there like a special online store where they sell weird RAM components meant for server builds?

Hello everyone, I'm doing some box cleaning and I found a bunch of cables which I'll ask for your help for identification, if you don't mind 🙃

So, as the title says, how do you call this cable?

Thank you!

Went with the Arctic P12 Max because they are incredible for their price. Went with the white version because it has better bearings making it even more quite. Didnt care how it looked but it actually doesnt look bad at all imo

Edit: Got a reply from Arctic on Twitter. Apparently the new revision of the black P12 Max also use a fluid dynamic bearing (the better one). If you want to go with the black ones, always check the description I guess

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/11594863

50/50 chance this breaks Deck and linux support, especially since the commenters' inquiries about it have gone unanswered.

Bogles my mind why a PvE game needs an anti-cheat at all - let alone something as invasive as a rootkit.

Source is the dev's post on, unfortunately, reddit: https://www.reddit.com/r/Helldivers/comments/19dp2qw/helldivers_2_nprotect_gameguard_anticheat/

Im doing a custom case with a Jonsbo Vr1 I picked up super cheap. Im after the screws for the glass sides specifically but if anyone in Australia has one Id be interested in picking up a whole case.

[email protected]

Normally I'd go to r/mousereview for this kind of thing, but fuck that website.

Can anybody recommend me a mouse that isn't going to fuck out inside of a couple years? Was previously using an Ironclaw until the USB port went, replaced it with a Basilisk and the scroll on that one's started to jitter up and down now. I have fairly large hands and tend to use knuckle claw grip. Wireless is a must, builtin battery preferred, but requiring a single AA isn't a dealbreaker. I don't mind heavy, prefer a little weight tbh.

Hi, I'd like to lament a little bit here and see if you all would like to make some suggestions for me too. I've have consistently encountered different issues through 3 different speakers that I've tried using with my laptop

The first one is a JBL flip 6. When I have it connected to my laptop it makes consistent audio glitches/stuttering (so much so to the point where I consider it unusable). This is really disappointing because I have been really happy with this speaker, it otherwise strikes an excellent balance of battery life, portability, sound quality/volume, and versatility. I don't know what causes this problem (which seems to be exclusive to being connected to my laptop) and otherwise have zero complaints about it.

The next speaker I tried is a Marshall Kilburn II. I really enjoyed the sound quality of this speaker, looks, portability, the controls were all pretty good, and it had a 3.5mm audio input jack as well, so this was going to (hopefully) alleviate any potential bluetooth woes. Well, Marshall did a stupid design choice and implemented an automatic standby mode. This mode was so persistent that I would have to use the button repeatedly in order to get sound to come out of it. In-between watching videos, or playing games, having to repeatedly press the function button on the speaker to get the audio source to switch back to the aux input was a real annoyance and immersion breaker...

The third, and current speaker to have become a failure for me is the razer leviathan v2x. This one is a usb-c powered speaker, with bluetooth as well. It is not being recognized as an audio device by my laptop when I plug it in. It seems to have pretty excellent bluetooth connection, which would be fine except for the RGB lighting is reactive by default to whatever audio is being played. It's setup in a visualizer kind of way, which in my opinion is way too distracting. I don't want this thing erratically flashing quickly and with many different colors when I'm trying to watch something, or listen to something. It's extremely distracting and immersion-breaking. I would be ok with it if there was a way to turn this off, or make it less erratic, but because the speaker isn't being recognized by my laptop, there's no way to control the speaker's lighting using razer's software which also doesn't recognize the speaker (bluetooth or usb-c connected). I called Razer support to troubleshoot, and was recommended to take it back to the store for a replacement. If it so happens that this was a factory defect, and the replacement operated correctly, I'd probably be happy with a new one.

Thanks for reading all of that, if you managed to get that far.

Found this ESP32-C3 smartwatch (basically just comes with a demo installed) on Aliexpress for 19 euros.

Decided I wanted a temperature monitor in the case, so I put together some ESP-IDF plus LVGL code. It scrolls through different sensor data (customizable, mine has water/CPU/GPU temperature and CPU/GPU power consumption) which it pulls from the PC's LibreHardwareMonitor web server via Wifi.

It really doesn't want to fit, but that doesn't mean that I didn't make it fit.