scutiger

joined 1 year ago
[–] scutiger 2 points 1 day ago (1 children)

It's a dragonfruit. For reference, it's not like a standard cactus. Treat it more like a tropical plant. During the warmer months, they like to be watered frequently. In the winter, you might need to water it once or twice a month.

[–] scutiger 3 points 1 day ago (1 children)
[–] scutiger 10 points 1 day ago

On a standard PC, you can easily have a loop because the radiator is big enough to exhause all that heat. But when your computer or cluster puts out multiple thousands of watts of heat, eventually you need to get rid of tge hot water and replace it with cold water. And when it gets even hotter, you need a steady stream of cold water that immediately gets dumped.

[–] scutiger 3 points 2 days ago (1 children)

Many places have laws in place currently stating that you can't be personally identified by your IP. So if you get emails about piracy and copyright issues coming from a law firm representing rightsholders, the best course of action is usually to ignore them. Responding to them is essentially admitting that you're the person they're looking for and that you committed the offense in question.

[–] scutiger 2 points 3 days ago (1 children)

Are you really comparing someone flying a drone over your property to slavery?

[–] scutiger 7 points 3 days ago

You can't really get a jammer to disable only a drone. The jamming will affect an area all around, likely affecting the neighbors' wifi, bluetooth connections, and other radio signals like cellphones, for example.

If that happens, it would get noticed, reported, and investigated very quickly.

[–] scutiger 9 points 3 days ago (8 children)

Also super illegal and easy to get caught for.

[–] scutiger 3 points 3 days ago (1 children)

Big toe's going to be sold by the pound

[–] scutiger 1 points 4 days ago

Using a urinal will most often result in no backsplash, keeping my hands pretty clean.

Using a urinal definitely results in backsplash, and because your hands and body are right in front of it, there's even less likelihood of avoiding it vs a toilet. Just because you don't see or feel it, doesn't mean it's not there.

[–] scutiger 6 points 4 days ago (1 children)

What if they slam into a truck at highway speeds? Instantly they've gone ftom 100km/h to 0, and you have to stop your car before you slam into them. How much space do you need between you in this scenario?

With 2 seconds worth of space, you have about 55 meters between you, and a normal reaction time would be about 250ms, which leaves you 1.75 seconds and 48 meters to come to a complete stop. And hopefully the person behind you reacts accordingly and doesn't slam into you as well.

[–] scutiger 2 points 5 days ago

That's not the point. The meme of the orphan crushing machine is that headlines report an orphan being saved as something uplifting when really the problem is that someone built a machine for the express purpose of crushing orphans, and it's still running.

It's not uplifting news that this lady gets to move back home. It's horrifying that her house was torched by a racist mob and she hasn't been able to live there for 85 years.

[–] scutiger 3 points 6 days ago

You're supposed to put some type of desiccant like silica gel beads that will pull that moisture out of the air.

Leaving the box open will just let humid air in. You can't let air out without also letting air in unless you have some sort of vacuum pump.

11
Gamescope and PS4 controller (self.linux_gaming)
submitted 2 weeks ago by scutiger to c/linux_gaming
 

I just bought a nice OLED monitor and I'm trying to take advantage of it to play my games in HDR. If I run my games in gamescope, then HDR runs fine but my PS4 controller doesn't work. If I play without gamescope, the controller works, but HDR does not.

I've been trying to figure this out for a bit, and some people have been having some luck with the -e flag, which does nothing for me.I've tried Steam Input and overlay in all combinations of enabled and disabled and I've tried in big picture/gamepadui. Either way I have to choose between HDR and the controller. Has anyone gotten this to work?

 

I modeled an object in Blender intending to print it, but when I import it into PrusaSlicer or Cura, the dimensions don't quite match.

In Blender, the dimensions are 178mm x 142mm, but when I import it into Cura or PrusaSlicer, it imports it as 180 x 138mm. I can manually adjust the dimensions, but why is this happening? And will it mess up my fit in the end? Who do I trust here? I don't want to waste hours printing for nothing.

91
submitted 11 months ago by scutiger to c/music
 

I've been listening to this a bunch lately. This is the cleanest-sounding concert recording I've ever found on youtube.

 

I want to put grilled paneer, arugula, and salmon roe on a cracker as an appetizer or early snack.

I feel like the salty/umami roe with the bitter/peppery freshness of arugula on the grilled paneer would taste nice. In terms of texture there would be the chewy/squeaky cheese, the crispy cracker, and the pop of the roe.

I'm thinking a cracker like a triscuit, but I feel like they're too thick for what I'm trying to put together.

Anyway, before I spend time and money to make a concoction that tastes like garbage, does anyone have any opinions or suggestions?

 

I have a model I want to print that has multiple layers of internal walls. They are useless and can't be seen in the finished product, like a hollow cylinder inside another hollow cylinder.

I can't seem to figure out how to prevent the slicer from including those useless parts. I've tried with Cura and PrusaSlicer. Is there another tool I should be using for this?

17
submitted 11 months ago* (last edited 11 months ago) by scutiger to c/3dprinting
 

I just got my printer, got it all set up, followed all the instructions, and it looks like it should be working, but it's not.

I've gone through the auto bed leveling, then adjusted the height with a piece of paper. Now, trying to run my first test print, the only thing the printer will do is attempt to auto-level itself. If I let it go, it will just do it over and over. If I hit the stop button, it gives me error message 203 (Probing Failed), the screen locks up, and the printer keeps attempting to auto-level over and over. The only thing I can do is turn it off.

What am I missing?

Edit: So it turns out the included test files are no good. I downloaded a benchy and it printed just fine.

 

When you make something that's too big for your printer, how do you hide the seams from bonding when aesthetics are a priority?

 

This is one of two habanero plants I started as an experiment a couple months ago. This one has about 40 peppers growing on it right now and a ton of open flowers.

It spent most of its time in a tent, but I brought it outside about a month ago, and it's taking quite a liking to real sunshine.

 

Anyone have any experience playing over Steam Link on wifi?

It seems like no matter what I do, the performance is really shitty. Both the host and the client are in line of sight of the router, and I can get 500+ mbps and my latency seems good, but the performance is garbage. As soon as I go wired, I can get great performance at 100mbps or less.

Is there a good way to mitigate this? Am I doing something wrong?

 

I found the Kharaa antidote in the pengling cave, and I got the voice lines confirming it, but it never unlocked the blueprint for it and I can't craft it. Is there a way around this, or am I missing something else?

I didn't want to look up spoilers, but I couldn't find the injectable vessel after I found the vaccine itself, so I looked it up and it said it unlocks after you find the antidote in the cave and you have to craft it.

8
submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by scutiger to c/techsupport
 

This is new since yesterday, I don't know what's happening. My PC has been partially powering off suddenly and without warning. My displays lose input, my peripherals turn off, and the computer stops responding to everything. It's still "on" with fans spinning and the power button's LED is lit, but won't respond to holding down the power button to force it to shut off. The only thing I can do is turn it off at the power supply or unplug it.

I thought it was a one-time thing, but it happened again today. I've never seen this before. Anyone have any insight into what's happening?

Edit: I ran a memory test which came out clear. I ran stress tests on CPU & GPU, which didn't cause any issues. My temperatures have always been fine, with nothing ever going above 75 degrees. Eventually, the BIOS lost track of the date/time so that pretty much gave it away. The computer eventually stopped booting entirely, so I replaced the CMOS battery and everything seems to be running fine for now.

For the record, replacing the battery on an ITX build without taking the whole thing apart is somewhat of a pain.

 

I want to build a simple wall shelf to hold a projector and probably a few other small things; no heavy weights.

I have some cheap 7" x 9" shelf brackets (just L-brackets) that I was thinking of screwing into 3 studs and getting some kind of 12" x 36" board to span the three brackets with a bit of excess on both ends.

First of all, is this a good plan? Are my brackets good enough for what I want to do/is there a better or simpler way to do this? This is a rental, so a few easily-patched screw holes are fine, but I can't do anything major or permanent.

And second, what type of material do I want to use for the shelf itself if I want to avoid bowing/sagging in the longer term?

Thanks for any help.

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