fluxx

joined 1 year ago
[–] fluxx 7 points 3 weeks ago

You don't buy from TSMC, but from Intel. Also, AMD also uses TSMC, they didn't have such problems recently.

[–] fluxx 1 points 3 weeks ago (1 children)

Are they any close? Seems like they've been doing it for ages and they aren't close.

[–] fluxx 5 points 3 weeks ago

In Futurama, they renamed it to Urectum :)

[–] fluxx 5 points 3 weeks ago (13 children)

Agree, it didn't do anything to avoid the obstacle. A human could probably see it as an obstacle and try to swerve to the side, albeit not knowing what it is. Not saying it's possible to avoid, but some reaction would be made.

[–] fluxx 4 points 1 month ago

Thanks. The mill is utter trash though, which I modded as much as I could (the pink part is a 3d printed funnel), the wheels are not grippy enough, the knurling isn't deep enough and I end up having to push the grain with my fingers and it's very tedious and slow. I spent an hour milling a 5 kg of grain. It wasn't even finely ground. It's the next thing I'll upgrade, as soon as I find a good brand/model.

20
submitted 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) by fluxx to c/[email protected]
 

Hi, made this Marzen beer to throw an October party inspired by Oktoberfest. It's a pseudomerzen, since I'm using lutra kveik for speed and less fuss. It's almost done fermenting in less than a week.

Milling

Brewing

Fermenting

[–] fluxx 1 points 1 month ago

This looks like heat creep and/or clog. Check the hotend fan (not the part cooling one). If it starts happening after a while, it's either that or the nozzle has cooled too much. But if it happens with lower speed as well, then I wouldn't say it's that it's the latter. Try increasing the temperature. I'm printing mine at 270°C. Also I keep the bed at 70°C but that's not important. I've had issues like that with bad conducting nozzles (hardened/stainless steel) and thermistors not properly seated on the heat block. When this happens, pause the print, try feeding the filament by hand and see if there is any resistance (can you feel the clog). Try increasing the temperature, reduce the retraction distance to try and avoid it. I'm printing exclusively with petg for years now, never had issues like this due to moisture. You get more stringing, yes, but no failures on actual printing.

[–] fluxx 2 points 1 month ago

You're completely right, I forgot about that method. I've used it in the past, it works great and is far more controllable and safe.

[–] fluxx 2 points 1 month ago

True, I've seen many molten rolls of filament because of overly warm ovens. Make sure it doesn't go over 60C and you're good. Mine is good, has a little overshoot when heating up, but if you let it warm up first and then put the filament, it generally stays very close to 60C. I havent had problems. Other ovens - be careful. Food dehydrator is better, but if you don't have it, you may as well buy an actual filament dryer. Desicant beads didn't work for me. They do the trick of maintaining the dryness, but if you have ANY built up moisture in your filament, the beads won't do much.

[–] fluxx 2 points 1 month ago

A little mini torch, similar to a regular gas lighter also can work wonderfully.

[–] fluxx 11 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) (6 children)

As others have mentioned:

  • Dry your filament. ~~Stick it in the oven for 2+ hours on minimal settings. If you have a fan in the oven, even better.~~ edit: use the printer bed, see comments below
  • Tune your printer. Do a temperature tower with your dried filament. Lower temperatures might improve quality at the expense of lower layer adhesion. Do a flow calibration routine. Overextrusion can also have effects like this.
  • Slow down the printing. Increase minimal layer time, which might have an effect. If it's original E3, it has relatively poor part cooling, which can be compensated by slowing things down.

Nothing wrong with Ender 3, if you thinker enough, you can get results as good as any other printer. But it may require tinkering. The model that you're printing is difficult with FDM printers of any kind. It has thin, delicate parts with steep overhangs. It can look better, but it's gonna be hard to achieve. Resin printers are definitely a better choice for this, but you use what you have.

[–] fluxx 19 points 2 months ago (2 children)

Well, I've been a C/C++ dev for half of my career, I didn't find Rust syntax ugly. Some things are better than others, but not a major departure from C/C++. ObjC is where ugly is at. And I even think swift is more ugly. In fact, I can't find too many that are as close to C/C++ as Rust. As for logic.... Well, I want to say you'll get used to it, but for some things, it's not true. Rust is a struggle. Whether it's worth it, is your choice. I personally would take it over C++ any day.

[–] fluxx 3 points 3 months ago

In 2024? No, unless it's a plus. Plus already has that support. E5 has an 8 bit board and no silent drivers. If I'd be buying today,I'd buy sovol sv08. It has everything already done to it while being open source and is able to be modded out of the box.

41
Doorbell kamera solution (self.selfhosted)
submitted 5 months ago by fluxx to c/selfhosted
 

Hi, anyone have any good self hosted solution for a doorbell camera? What I need is to have the option to look at who is at the door and be able to actuate a lock (relay operated). I have a cheap Chinese brand solution, but it uses an unknown cloud solution and is very unreliable. A phone app would be fine, but if there's a standalone tablet, that's even better.

15
submitted 8 months ago* (last edited 8 months ago) by fluxx to c/guitars
 

Hi! I hope you don't mind giving some advice on buying a desktop amp. I'm talking basically about those amp sims with full range mini-speakers. I've been playing for years, but I've been using amp sims. I've previously owned tube amps, but found them inconvenient for practicing and always ended up playing unplugged. I also tried vox amPlug, which was better, but I also dislike having headphones on while playing. So I primarily want a desktop amp that would inspire me to play more.

I've looked at various ones online (I don't really have an opportunity to try them live), which makes a decision very hard.

My list so far:

  • Yamaha THR30
  • Positive Grid Spark 40
  • Hotone Pulze
  • Nux mighty space

I also don't have great PC speakers, so maybe I could also use it as general speaker there. Do you have experience on any of those? Some others? Any advice?

Thanks!

Edit:

Ordered a Nux Mighty Space, it could take a week or two before it arrives. I'll post an update once I get it. Thanks everyone!

15
Camera suggestions (self.homeassistant)
submitted 1 year ago by fluxx to c/homeassistant
 

Any recommendations for good open protocol cameras? I heard about Reolink cameras, are they ok? I need them to be Ethernet and be able to stream with RTP/RTSP and expose some sort of API for control/monitoring. And not depend on cloud, if possible. Thanks.

 

Every time I turn on the app, it switches back to local/active, whereas I would like subscribed/hot. It doesn't seem to remember my setting, is this by design or a missing feature?

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